arc on balancer

67coupe200":1iepq2c5 said:
now isn't there a chance that there's arcing on the main bearings causing pitting and or burning?

That is certainly a possibility, it really depends upon where the sparks are originating.
 
ok ive been talking to some guys over at the maverick forums and their sayin that i should try to run it with out the belt for a min and see if the problem goes away and if so change belts. so ill try that and we'll see what happens
 
Any progress? I'm curious why they suggested removing the belt?....To eliminate the alternator as a possible source?

Lazy JW":w3xwnooh said:
And a hare-brained theory it is indeed

Just to clarify, I never thought Joe's idea was "crazy" <<<just failed to put quote marks around my comment the first time...as to suggest what the casual observer might hastily think.

As Sherlock Holmes would say, "Once you've eliminated the impossible, whatever remains no matter how improbable, must be the truth" ;)
 
I found this info on a Ford TSB. I think this addresses your problem
TSB 06-21-19
Testing For Electrolysis c. Voltage less than or equal to 0.4 V on all
grounds OK.
Check for voltage in the cooling system by touching
the negative contact of a voltmeter to the battery d. Any one greater than 0.4 V, check and
ground or a known good ground and suspend the clean ground cable connections.
positive lead in the coolant, making sure it is in
contact with the coolant but not touching any metal e. Check accessories without using the on off
part of the radiator or cooling system. Both AC and switch on the vehicle instrument panel, use
DC voltages must be checked. Vehicles normally a jumper wire to ground.
have DC voltages; however, a faulty engine block f. Plug in engine block heater, if equipped,
heater or faulty diode in the alternator can produce and test.
AC voltages. It is understood that coolant is lost
due to heater core failure but try to obtain a voltage g. Recheck voltage less than or equal to 0.4
reading on the old coolant in the engine block V.
before addition to or replacement of. To keep more
coolant from exiting the heater core clamp off h. Unplug engine block heater, if equipped.
heater core lines and measure coolant in the engine 3. Check for loose, missing, or inadequate
block. Try not to dilute the original coolant with new grounds.
coolant during testing if possible.
a. Test with ground probe to battery ground,
1. Determine whether coolant condition is engine ground, and vehicle ground
acceptable. sequentially.
a. Remove both cables from the battery and b. Crank engine but do not start.
ensure they do not contact each other or
the vehicle. c. Monitor voltage while cranking. less than or
equal to 0.4 V OK
b. Touch negative lead of voltmeter to engine
ground and positive lead in the coolant. d. If greater than 0.4 V, ground or repair
starter.
NOTE
POSITIVE TEST PROBE IS IN THE COOLANT e. Start engine and run at about 2000 rpm.
FOR TESTING.
f. Turn on all accessories including those
c. Check the voltage in the cooling system. If customer only uses occasionally such as CB
less than or equal to 0.4 volts (V) OK, radio, cell phone, etc.
reconnect battery cables and proceed to
Step 2. g. Test with ground probe to battery ground,
engine ground, and vehicle ground
d. If greater than 0.4 V, flush cooling system sequentially.
thoroughly.
h. Voltage less than or equal to 0.4 V OK
e. Recheck voltage less than or equal to 0.4
V. i. If greater than 0.4 V, turn off one item at a
time until V drops to less than or equal to
f. Reconnect battery cables. 0.4 V. Repair ground to the accessory just
identified.
g. Refill the system with appropriate
Motorcraftâ engine coolant. j. Recheck voltage less than or equal to 0.4 V
2. Check for loose or missing grounds at static k. Turn the DVOM to AC volts.
conditions.
l. Check for ANY AC voltage greater than 0.4.
a. Turn off all accessories. Turn ignition on but
do not start engine. m. If any AC voltage is present then try turning
off each accessory one at a time including
b. Test with ground probe to battery ground, blower motor and any fan motors.
engine ground, and vehicle ground
sequentially.
PAGE 2
TSB 06-21-19 (Continued)
n. If AC voltage is still present then shut 4. Refill the engine cooling system, reference
engine off and remove B+ from the Workshop Manual, Section 303-03.
alternator and tape it up then retest.
NOTE
o. If voltage drop is gradual to less than or IF THE HEAT OUTPUT IS INSUFFICIENT, OR
equal to 0.4 V, the ground straps may THE ENGINE DOES NOT REACH NORMAL
simply be overloaded by added accessories. OPERATING TEMPERATURES, VERIFY PROPER
Test by using heavy gauge jumper to THERMOSTAT OPERATION AND REPEAT
ground. If indicated, install heavier gauge PROCEDURE IF REQUIRED.
ground strap(s) and recheck.
WARRANTY STATUS: Eligible Under Provisions Of
NOTE New Vehicle Limited
If vehicle is equipped with electric cooling fans, be Warranty Coverage
sure they cycle during this testing and monitor DEALER CODING
voltage when they are on and when off. CONDITION
BASIC PART NO. CODE
CAUTION 18476 42
DO NOT GROUND HEATER CORE. IF THE
HEATER CORE IS GROUNDED, YOU HAVE
PROVIDED THE ELECTROLOSIS A PATH
THROUGH THE HEATER CORE. THIS WOULD
CAUSE THE HEATER CORE TO BECOME AN
ANODE OR RECEIVER AND IT WOULD
PROMOTE THE ELECTROLOSIS, OR ANY
STRAY VOLTAGE TO USE THE COOLANT AS
THE GROUND PATH.
PAGE
 
that's odd... When I got my alum rad I was given a grounding wire for the radiator, directions said to ground it on the neg lead... wouldn't this then promote electrolysis?

I think you can try a simple grounding strap on the radiator, then check if the arc is there...

Shoot, if doesn't work try going around and ground various components in the engine bay and see if that changed the arc...

sometimes it's the simpler answers for the more difficult questions
 
yea sorry i haven't been on in a while im going through a move so i haven't had time to really mess with the stang but i haven't forgot about you guys! I will get back into it after the move
 
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