ATTENTION 250-2V OWNERS! I need your opinion.

michael_cini

Well-known member
intake.jpg


Are you running water through the water jacket on your intake? Some say it is essential to do this, others say it is not. Opinions please!
 
Do what addo tells you, the guy know everything. I'm going to start turning to him for investment advice and eternal salvation too. :wink: :shock: :lol:
 
oh yeah, remove the port divider before it breaks loose and forces you to remove it after the heads been installed. Again, listen to addo.
 
Everyone's correct! In California you do not need the heated intake and not sure how effective it is anyway! I've run about 7 years and 5 years now without it hooked up, and would be hard pressed to explain how it helps if at all when operating as designed?
 
When I left school, didn't even have money for bus fares - let alone to own or run a car. Walked everywhere, just to save a few cents. Honestly. So, being economical is pretty ingrained.

It's why I'll advocate getting cams reground instead of buying new, or rebuilding a fluid pump rather than just replacing. I have a roll of gasket paper and cut my own except for head and cork gaskets.

From that perspective - economy in the face of unnecessary measures - come my remarks about items like the water jacket, or the port divider.
 
Water heat may contribute to better atomization of the mix...and even cooling in the extreme heat so for the price of a piece of heater hose and a couple of hose clamps, why not? Either way, one might not discern the difference on the arse dyno.
 
:D Addo has done so much,with so little,for so long,he is now qualified to do anything with nothing.J/K Addo.Have a good day.
Addo,I have BTDT.Know the feeling.
Leo
 
Hey...I was just joking...I will apologize...Mr. Addo...ok mate?

Anyways...I wouldnt have thought to redo my engine without Addo and the rest of the guys..specially the old ones! So I invested in an updated block and 250 head. Got my brother in Spokane to do the machining using my notes from the forum. He had it put together with the new cam and all the goodies from a local place out there.

Only regret is not using FSPP's new head and intake...but I am optimistic...this wont be the last Christmas in my life!!! The motor is enroute to Mizzouri now so I wait with my basket of goodies and I am ready to go for a weekend of build, fit and hopefully start!
 
Unless you are racing or on a dyno looking for the last ounce of power, I think you should hook it up. The driveability will improve with heat.

Here in central FL it never gets extremely cold, but it does get humid. On cool days that humidity can turn to ice inside your carb venturi.

Also, if you run the manifold without heat, you'll notice that the intake will actually become very cold at the base under the carb. That can contribute to fuel dropout and puddling.
 
I hope that none of you are dissin' my friend Addo, I do appreciate his opinions. As a matter of fact he helped me to decide which cam to pick! I just wanted a few more opinions. From most of the pics I have seen of cars with 250-2v's I have seen more of the water jackets NOT hooked up that hooked up, so I just wanted a few more to chime in.

BTW, Lagrasta don't be a smart as*!!
 
I can take the heat! :lol: (How's that for a pun? :roll: )

Honestly, I think a lot of the water jackets go unused because people don't understand how it is intended to function. Or they clag it up by running no inhibitor.
 
Addo...

I am a week away from cranking up my new engine. I will be back home on Sat for 1.5 days of assembly into the bay and tranny hookup. Then back home again the weekend of the Nov 10. I will/should be ready with the last of the tin and wiring. Do you have any instructions or prayers I need to memorize?

I went over the list for timing...I have new plugs already gapped at .050" and I am using the older Autolite 1101 carb on the 250 head. Oil, clean filters, same alternator, same starter, etc...new radiator coolant... I will take pictures, but only if it doesnt blow up!

Hummm...am I missing anything?
 
Assemble it at TDC #1, firing stroke. Start it with a points distributor (and appropriate hardened gear) set at 6- 10° BTDC, and only change to the DUI after cam break-in. Inspect the distributor gear when swapping units.

Bleed the coolant much as you can manually. Hook up a real, reliable, oil pressure gauge, and ditto for temperature - don't trust the factory gauges.

If it doesn't start in the first few cranks, don't keep cranking - stop and double check everything. Then try a little ether spray.
 
OK...

Question about the DUI. I am using a Pertronix now with the HOT coil...so is the DUI that much different??


My brother was there and gave me the compression numbers all averaging 170 per cylinder. He said the oil pressure held steady at 52psi with the new pump. He said the shop called it a velocity spin with oil, using a hydraulic motor to spin the crank, simulating a running engine but with no coolant or carb/gas. Only ran a minute or two he said.

How many miles to break in the cam?

I had planned on changing oil in first 100..then again at 500 , 1000 then back to my normal 3000. I picked up a magnet sleeve from Summit to wrap the oil filter and that way I can cut the filter open and inspect for shedding.
 
I feel it should be hooked up too. Everyone forgets that the headers are directly under the intake. Tell me your headers don't get hotter than the water temp? Not only will it help on cold mornings, it also dissipates heat coming up from the headers. How many times have we heard of hard starts on hot summer days? Plus a hot intake is going to heat the intake charge, which we all know reduces power. You certainly don't gain anything from bypassing it, other than saving a few pennies for the hose. We considered these points when we designed the aluminum head intakes, everyone involved agreed that it was needed.
 
thanks for chiming in. i didn't notice any ports for the water on the pics of your new intake on the classic inlines site. where are they?

AzCoupe":2fvcmwy5 said:
I feel it should be hooked up too. Everyone forgets that the headers are directly under the intake. Tell me your headers don't get hotter than the water temp? Not only will it help on cold mornings, it also dissipates heat coming up from the headers. How many times have we heard of hard starts on hot summer days? Plus a hot intake is going to heat the intake charge, which we all know reduces power. You certainly don't gain anything from bypassing it, other than saving a few pennies for the hose. We considered these points when we designed the aluminum head intakes, everyone involved agreed that it was needed.
 
From memory, the water jacket casting (core) pattern is complete, but the final details for the water fittings are/were still being fine tuned.
 
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