Late coming into this thread. Maybe you're back on and have found and fixed the issue(s).
First thing I would have asked/checked about would have been:
- Is this 1100 automatic choke or manual?
- Does this 1100 have an anti-stall dashpot on the passenger side of the bowl?
All things having theoretically been adjusted correctly after the first rebuild, and assuming everything was running fine at that point prior to the "sit" (if it's less than a year of sit hard to see how anything would have just come out of adjustment that much) the things I might be prone to think of first would be heat related or vacuum related issues as suggested above.
However, there are things you could check prior to even that to make sure the carb is adjusted properly right off the bat.
If manual choke, check that choke cable is allowing choke valve to open completely on release. If carb has an anti-stall dashpot, adjust according to original manual. Recommend that fast idle and idle mixture are checked and adjusted properly first.
If stalling or sputtering was happening during turns only I'd look straight to the float as the problem source, and I'd check to see if the needle was replaced during the rebuild (the rubber should be pointy to properly stop up the inlet hole, not even slightly rounded or flat), and that the float adjustment was made at least to spec - if not even a touch lower on this particular carb. But you said in OP that it's happening at stoplights, too; so that means possibly something else. Not ruling out the float, but, again, would check a couple easier things first before pulling the upper off for float adjustment, and having to replace a gasket. Is any fuel coming out of the vent hole at the rod above the bowl? Is float original? Replaced or repaired during rebuild?
Summary (in the order I'd do it - all done at temp to eliminate anomalies):
- Check (manual) choke isn't sticking closed
- Check (automatic) choke is getting proper heat feed and shutting off at temp
- Check idle mixture, fast idle, and then anti-stall dashpot adjustments are correct (The first two can be a very touchy balancing act - be patient and get them right before moving on to the dashpot adjustment)(ludwig's suggestion of using a vacuum gauge is a great one that I've never tried, and will definitely have to)
- Check that acceleration pump spacing adjustment is correct per spec using "HI" position for initial, and leaving in "HI" position for road testing*
- Check that the notch on the vent valve rod is in alignment with the edge of it's housing hole while in hot idle position
All of the above are the kinds of "bench" adjustments that can be checked relatively quickly without pulling off the upper body to check the float. If it is, indeed, the float at least you've made sure by ruling out everything else; and such adjustments are good to check as a starting point, anyway.
I don't suspect the float is bad (leak), really, since that would flood the situation and just stay flooded. But then, I always do leak tests on older floats while I have them accessible, anyway, just because it's easy enough to do - in the moment. And if you do ultimately go inside to check I'd recommend it as usual.
Be interested to know what you finally find, in the end.
*The Manual recommends setting the acceleration pump arm pin in the "LO" position if the engine is running in anything above 50 degrees F, or above 5000 ft altitude. Initial adjustments should be performed in the "HI" position, of course, but I've always found that testing beyond initial adjustments also works out better in the "HI" position as well. Also, I live in the Mojave Desert and have temps somewhat similar to yours depending on the present weather, and I still run in the "HI" position year round with no problems. I might not be saving very much fuel, economically, but this setup likes its gasoline. (Might be different after an engine rebuild, but that's a bridge to come later.) Recommend testing both ("LO" and "HI") to see what runs best for you, of course.
