Best 2100 size to use

StarDiero75

VIP Member
xctasy":1jbffavg said:
I enjoy Real People who do Real Stuff and get there hands dirty! Ryan, great work.

The typical Theoretical Engineer who got his hands dirty is the ex Limey David Vizard. He found that 1.19 vs 1.38 (350 cfm 2bbl vs 500 cfm 2bbl), the kick in was at just 125 hp net at the flywheel. Result? Another 10 hp net. The 1979 2.8 Mustang got given a 1.14 2150 Motorcraft over the 32/36 based Autolite or Motorcraft part numbered 5200. Some where, another 4 hp , depending on what figures you garner.
The average venturi size of a 5200 is exactly 1.01. The reason it gives strange air fuel ratios is the primary and secondary circuits augument air fuel supply. The carb on the 2.8 was well sorted.

My vote is for the old 1.23 with s two stage power valve and you play with the PVCR's with either Bills E string, fuse wire or Sean Murphy style hex plug and fine drill holes.
Thats very interesting. I have a 5200 sitting in the garage and it looks a little smaller than the 32/36 i got, they might be the same since I've never measured them.

I can test the 1.23 i currently have on it and see how it does vs the 1.08 i just bought and see how they compare. I'll have the funnel adapter for a bit till i get the 1980 head set up for a direct 2bbl and i won't have to screw with adapters anymore. I'm hoping the 1.08 will do just fine.

Also, side question, if the AF gauge was too close to the manifold, would it give different readings vs being a little further downstream? I was looking at my sensor and noticed its about 10" from the manifold. Is that too close?
 

xctasy

VIP Member
Ryan, you need to check the Innovate and AEM manual. And then set the Average exhaust runner distance at 12".

Then follow Chads copied detail in his footer 1/16/2017.

One change at a time.

Your conclusions on 32/36, 5200, 1.08 and 1.23 are purely subjective. There are 13 generic types of 5200, with four different venturi types, two different kinds of idle circuit, and it sat on over 5 different kinds of US domestic engine from 1600 GM, 1700 Chrysler, 1700 VW, 1600, 2000, 2300, 2800 Ford, AMC's VW Audi Porsche derived Fox 80 2 liter four in the Pacer.

Circumstances alter Cases.

Where you hook the vac line and vent tube defines advance curve and intake charge dillution, and they define more than jetting how an engine combination runs. Fuel pressure and cleaness of thr fuel system, and little things like throttle set up are played against curb idle position. A 5200/5210/5220 Holley Weber has American profile well tubes after 1974, and the jet size to cc/min or Micron stamping has not got a 2.54 metric to Imperial ratio because of how Holley profiled Weber jets. You'll learn all this stuff. Have fun.

The Holley Weber can potentislly kick any Holley 350 cfm or 0.98 to 1.23. A Holley 500 kicks every other carbd a$$ if your in the 125 to 225 hp bracket. You just have to follow David Vizards SOHC Ford carb details dating back to 1977 to 1988.

Enjoy yourself.
 

CZLN6

VIP Member
Howdy Back Star and All:

"Very strange, so its more or less luck with testing K clusters?"
No. but you will need to know what the application of the 2100 was, from the factory. The 2100s are marked with a stamped code on the mounting foot of each carb. The K-clusters are not stamped but have code mark on the base of the cluster. To date, the code is unknown. But, If you know the specific application you will have a good idea of the characteristics of that cluster. You will need to know- vehicle, weight, elevation, transmission.

Assuming elevation and tranmissions are the same, if you are using a 1.14 from a '65 Mustang and you want a richer idle and transition, swap the K-cluster for one from a '65 F100 with a 302. If you have a 1.08 from '68 Mustang with a 302 V8 and you want to slightly richen the internals try swapping the K-cluster from a 1.14 from a '67 302 Mustang. This much is not guess work, well maybe an educated guess. Will this method put you spot on as with an analyser? No, but it will be closer. And swapping K-clusters is a whole lot easier and cheaper than buying an A/F analyser and figuring the internal restrictions for idle and transitions. And, what and adventure.

So, keep us posted on your choices and your progress.

Adios, David
 

chad

VIP Member
"...The 2100s are marked with a stamped code on the mounting foot of each carb. ..."
& this is where Mike's comes in again.
U can ID the vehicle thru ID the specific carb. Compair the #s/Ltrs to the make/model/yr of vehicle listed w/that carb (like cross referencing in a way). This way U will not -example- try 1 for a heavy torino (also w/an off displacement, as listed, like a 428) for ur lght falcon (or whatever).
 

CZLN6

VIP Member
Howdy Back:

Yup, Mike's is a good ID source. In addition to the stamped foot all factory carbs came with a metal ID tag with a code for dating, application and other info. Unfortunately, the metal ID tag frequently disappears on the first rebuild.

Hey Star- how's your progress?

Adios, David
 

StarDiero75

VIP Member
CZLN6":4lcu00bb said:
Howdy Back:

Yup, Mike's is a good ID source. In addition to the stamped foot all factory carbs came with a metal ID tag with a code for dating, application and other info. Unfortunately, the metal ID tag frequently disappears on the first rebuild.

Hey Star- how's your progress?

Adios, David
Still waiting on the carb from ebay. It should be here today or tomorrow. I'm also waiting on the correct adapter for it too.

I have the cable pedal to put it all in too, but thats gonna take a bit to fab to make work. Maybe Thursday if I'm feeling creative lol.

I'm kinda half tempted to just throw it on the car and see how it does rather rebuilding it. Heres what it looks like, its pretty clean which is why I'm considering that
 

Attachments

  • Screenshot_20190326-092942_eBay.jpg
    Screenshot_20190326-092942_eBay.jpg
    749.8 KB · Views: 184
  • Screenshot_20190326-092914_eBay.jpg
    Screenshot_20190326-092914_eBay.jpg
    220.9 KB · Views: 184

chad

VIP Member
I thought U already knew it wuz "too big"?
(See subject line above)?
Only 'rebuild' needed is change out internals 4 ur engine...

Do U have all these prts on hand? Will all these prts (carb, jets, etc) B @ ur home at the same time? If so avoid a double instal (install find it is not as should B, remove, correct, reinstall)?

How much of this carb can B done installed. Ur 32/36 - much could B done while mounted. This one? not sure (acc pump, all jets, etc)?
 

CZLN6

VIP Member
Howdy Star and All:

I vote for putting it on and giving it a try also. Worst is likely a stuck needle valve. let us know.

Adios, David
 

StarDiero75

VIP Member
CZLN6":3pjxdo97 said:
Howdy Star and All:

I vote for putting it on and giving it a try also. Worst is likely a stuck needle valve. let us know.

Adios, David
Just got the carb today. Its real clean and everything seems to move very nicely. I'm waiting on the carb adapter now from VI. Should be here tomorrow
 

chad

VIP Member
he's still around. He takes PMs on his ford, not the Studie.
No thing has fadded away...
For U? will it go ona 170? 200 250? or what?
 
It's a '66 casting 200, and the 1100 on it is past rebuilding. Phase 1 is to put the 2100 on an adapter while I hunt for a large log head and have it rebuilt and cut for a 2100 conversion plate. That is if I can set up the linkage and work out a kickdown for the C4 (currently none). Easy, right?
 

chad

VIP Member
U wanna direct mount a 2v? I like ur carb choice.

"...Easy, right?..."
Sure it's easy if U have a forge, horrozontal miller, and filling stock.
Some logs turn out better than others. U saw 1/2 way dwn page:

ci/LogMods.html#2VC

the 'grey' fill area?
 

drag-200stang

VIP Member
chad":2xbdvmpa said:
U wanna direct mount a 2v? I like ur carb choice.

"...Easy, right?..."
Sure it's easy if U have a forge, horrozontal miller, and filling stock.
Some logs turn out better than others. U saw 1/2 way dwn page:

ci/LogMods.html#2VC

the 'grey' fill area?
That is the beauty of the large log over the old small dog log, it does not need filling just thoughtful execution.
Just ask the OP of this thread.
 

chad

VIP Member
more plez:
3 logs

best practices?
I understood all 3 needed a fill and a mill...
I got the "M" head just incase I do another i6.
 

chad

VIP Member
I thought that thread had pretty conflicting reports "don't need filler" then a pic of 1 that really looked screwed/in need of filler...
Back to the topic.
I'm thinkin "no change" for a direct mount, "get one for the 200 v the 250" but defer to the experts.
 

wsa111

Moderator
Staff member
2V 2100 @ 3"HG. CFM
.98 = 190 CFM
1.01 =240 CFM
1.02 =245 CFM
1.08 = 287 CFM
1.14 = 300 CFM
1.21 = 351 CFM
1.23 = 356 CFM
1.33 = 424 CFM
Holley 7448-350 CFM
4412-500 CFM
 

xctasy

VIP Member
wsa111":17pqjjic said:
2V 2100 @ 3"HG. CFM
.98 = 190 CFM
1.01 =240 CFM
1.02 =245 CFM
1.08 = 287 CFM
1.14 = 300 CFM
1.21 = 351 CFM
1.23 = 356 CFM
1.33 = 424 CFM
Holley 7448-350 CFM
4412-500 CFM

Fixed. :mrgreen: Not that you were eva wrong Sir

2V 2100 @ 3"HG. CFM
0.98 = 190 CFM
1.01 =240 CFM
1.02 =245 CFM
1.08 = 287 CFM
1.14 = 300 CFM
1.21 = 351 CFM
1.23 = 356 CFM
1.33 = 424 CFM
1.19 = Holley 7448-350 CFM
1.38 = Holley 4412-500 CFM
 
Top