Bronco Carb Options

chad

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or
just geta head (the optimal 1) make a more informed plan, work the plan - 4 later bolt on...
:nod:
 

Econoline

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That's a good move if you have a 1/4" drive distributor imo. It's better and easier to just go to a 200 if you want a non LoM setup. Is the 1100 replacement carb a 200 carb or a 170 carb? You could try a 240 LoM 1100 carb as well. If you need to make or modify an adapter it will be relatively easy, or you can just buy it from Vintage Inlines. My 170 would run out of breath with it's 1100 at about 65-68 mph with a 3.5:1 rear axle. Somewhere around 3800-4200 rpm depending on conditions. You could put your foot in it and hear it when you reached it's limits, it just couldn't move anymore air. It wanted to, but that carb and small log have their limits.

One of these days Holley is going to release a 1 barrel sniper. I think they'd sell. Esp if you could run how ever many in series.
 

ledslinger29

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Econoline":2ohtzd1d said:
That's a good move if you have a 1/4" drive distributor imo. It's better and easier to just go to a 200 if you want a non LoM setup. Is the 1100 replacement carb a 200 carb or a 170 carb? You could try a 240 LoM 1100 carb as well. If you need to make or modify an adapter it will be relatively easy, or you can just buy it from Vintage Inlines. My 170 would run out of breath with it's 1100 at about 65-68 mph with a 3.5:1 rear axle. Somewhere around 3800-4200 rpm depending on conditions. You could put your foot in it and hear it when you reached it's limits, it just couldn't move anymore air. It wanted to, but that carb and small log have their limits.

One of these days Holley is going to release a 1 barrel sniper. I think they'd sell. Esp if you could run how ever many in series.
I’m not sure which one it is, but there are multiple available. You think I’d do better with a 240 or 200? I imagine they are higher CFM and jetted differently, which might help with power a bit.
Chad, after all the time and money I spent on this build, putting a new head on isn’t an option right now. Plus, I’m pretty happy with the motor, just replacing the carb because I have an air leak around the throttle plate shaft and I can’t get the carb tuned the way I want with an air leak, and getting it fixed is more than 177 bucks. Also, when I park for a a few minutes the throttle sticks, something to do with the accelerator pump vent shaft that is very frustrating. 177 dollar bolt on replacement is worth a shot. But perhaps a new head is in the distant future.
 

chad

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"...new head on isn’t an option right now..."
yes, sorry, not a clear writer. I meant
"...in the (distant) future."
There have been re-bush kits to stop that leak in fleebay.

How bout a new acc. pump same time?
 

chad

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Thnx Bill,
FF, our bud from the 300/4.9 crowd is right on top of it (inc a vendor) but would leave off the 'stone the plates' step.
 

Econoline

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ledslinger29":hg5qv7ok said:
I’m not sure which one it is, but there are multiple available. You think I’d do better with a 240 or 200? I imagine they are higher CFM and jetted differently, which might help with power a bit.

Yeah, the venturi's get larger as they go up the engine line. The jet's are available from mikes carb and maybe elsewhere if the larger 1100 is jetted to rich for the 170. It sounds like you are just frustrated with 'this' carb you have and just want to stop fiddling with the damned thing. I get the sentiment. It goes along with using carbs this old and modern fuel doesn't help either.
 

ledslinger29

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Econoline":1ub3f08b said:
ledslinger29":1ub3f08b said:
I’m not sure which one it is, but there are multiple available. You think I’d do better with a 240 or 200? I imagine they are higher CFM and jetted differently, which might help with power a bit.

Yeah, the venturi's get larger as they go up the engine line. The jet's are available from mikes carb and maybe elsewhere if the larger 1100 is jetted to rich for the 170. It sounds like you are just frustrated with 'this' carb you have and just want to stop fiddling with the damned thing. I get the sentiment. It goes along with using carbs this old and modern fuel doesn't help either.

That about sums it up!
 

chad

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oneada rules of thumb we use here is - the bigger the 1v, the more tq (I don't seek HP).

Some (inc Econo above) have got into the ford BBD (a 3.8L or 233ci made) carb. Chevy made a big'un for their 250, the Monojet (Camaro i6 carb.). I think the Carter may B too hi (from a Ford 300/4.9 - YF, YAF) for our hood but am not sure...

I'd wrk what I have rather than abandon it, but that's just me...
 

chad

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Bronks aren't racers.
Lookada big square box ! (They called my model Wolwo "the flying brick" - once a SBF or chebby 350 went in...the 240 model waggy). For 2v I'd go 2100 as I think they're the best around (I have some mods for the gradients off rd - slosh or fuel starvation if interested).H/W progressive, the 32/36 is nxt in line fora bronk. I need to stretch mine out some 1st. 215 cfm (1v for tq) and use in the 650 - 2, 2,500 range will let me know if I like it...a 2v is not in the bronk cards as I ck this deck. Ur '68 shoulda been the 1st of the non-SCV/LOMs but U no ford (empty box manufacturing).
 
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