congrats sounds like you making quite a bit of progress, yeah all that cleaning is hard work when it's that crusty. Keep up the good job 
Budget Rebuild / Rehab
- Thread starter bones 92
- Start date
congrats sounds like you making quite a bit of progress, yeah all that cleaning is hard work when it's that crusty. Keep up the good job 
Got busy today, Valves are cleaned and ready to reinstall once I have the seals. Valve head is super clean, I even got rid of some of the casting inside the buy the valves i didn't go crazy but could still go further like the handbook says but keeping it stock; i'm not sure its worth going further. Pistons are looking shiny and ready to go as well.
https://drive.google.com/open?id=1CLZVlzEHzKFEYm9xI_awlyUFWL-GGtyo
Anything else I should take care of while its all apart?
https://drive.google.com/open?id=1CLZVlzEHzKFEYm9xI_awlyUFWL-GGtyo
Anything else I should take care of while its all apart?
ahahaha, that may NOT be the right Q to ask on a quick job like this, y'no? To me anyway. Like
valve seals, did it smoke when ran? - well it never hada oil change so yeah it smoked...
can't tell bout the seals w/that, Etc. Etc. Etc....no, again, 4 me, I'd just wrk that 1 cyl &
Button Er Up !
keep close ear, eye, nose, hand (& the rest) out as runs the nxt several hundred mi
valve seals, did it smoke when ran? - well it never hada oil change so yeah it smoked...
can't tell bout the seals w/that, Etc. Etc. Etc....no, again, 4 me, I'd just wrk that 1 cyl &
Button Er Up !
keep close ear, eye, nose, hand (& the rest) out as runs the nxt several hundred mi
Thats the goal chad! I just want it to go 10 miles first. And i guess I should have asked, is there anything else to clean or look for as i start installing everything this week? Also I was reading the manual and I couldn't find the bearing clearance, should I look for .002?
Hi bones 92, great progress on cleaning up the little 144! When you get your rering kit and are ready to install the new rings here is some info if you happen to need it. Check the ring gaps are within specs in each bore in severial locations such as 1 inch down from top of the deck, at the bottom of the bore below the cylinder ring marks (this part of the cylinder should be really close still to the orginal bore size) showing the lowest piston ring travel, and in the center of the cylinder this info will also give you a fair idea of any cylinder wall wear or tapper. Rings also need to be installed correctly for good compression and proper oil control according to their markings which may be a bevel, a dot or 0 like circle, or no Mark. The package should tell you but if not (plain packaging) these marking face up when placed on the pistions if there is no Mark than they can go in either way, you can also get this basic info from the Hastings Rings web site (see link below). The ring gaps will need to be staggered so that no gaps are directly lined up with each other see below for a link to one diagram used by many racers though this isn't absolutely nessisary it also doesn't hurt to be this maticulus.
When your ready to install the pistons get some rubber fuel about 4 to 6 inches long that fits snugly on the Rod bolts this is to protect the crankshaft Rod journal during the installation. Clean and wipe out the rods big end bore throughly and install the new Rod bearings used some white lithium grease or liberal amounts of engine oil. After wiping out the cylinders so they are clean coat the wals good with engine oil as well as the pistions and ring then inststall pistion assembly using a good ring compressor tool with the crankshaft turned the lowest position (BDC) then if using engine oil above also liberally apply oil to the Rod journal to. Torque the Rod cap to its factory spec. of 24 to 26 Ft. LB's. then repeate to install the next pistion assembly. Then install oil pan and that buttons up the short block. The head clean up is going good too, yes if you wanted to clean up the valve bowls you could gain a little power for your efforts just as your Falcon Performace hand book the back cutting of the valves is also well worth the effort and will also reward you with some extra power. Everything is looking nice and clean on ring lands on the pistions plus even that top accumulator grove. Best of luck on your low budget rebuild. In Edited with some additional Info.
Hastings Ring Install Info
https://www.hastingspistonrings.com/tech-tips-faqs
Pistion Ring Gap Positions see page two
http://www.engineprofessional.com/TB/TB011117-2.pdf
When your ready to install the pistons get some rubber fuel about 4 to 6 inches long that fits snugly on the Rod bolts this is to protect the crankshaft Rod journal during the installation. Clean and wipe out the rods big end bore throughly and install the new Rod bearings used some white lithium grease or liberal amounts of engine oil. After wiping out the cylinders so they are clean coat the wals good with engine oil as well as the pistions and ring then inststall pistion assembly using a good ring compressor tool with the crankshaft turned the lowest position (BDC) then if using engine oil above also liberally apply oil to the Rod journal to. Torque the Rod cap to its factory spec. of 24 to 26 Ft. LB's. then repeate to install the next pistion assembly. Then install oil pan and that buttons up the short block. The head clean up is going good too, yes if you wanted to clean up the valve bowls you could gain a little power for your efforts just as your Falcon Performace hand book the back cutting of the valves is also well worth the effort and will also reward you with some extra power. Everything is looking nice and clean on ring lands on the pistions plus even that top accumulator grove. Best of luck on your low budget rebuild.
In Edited with some additional Info.Hastings Ring Install Info
https://www.hastingspistonrings.com/tech-tips-faqs
Pistion Ring Gap Positions see page two
http://www.engineprofessional.com/TB/TB011117-2.pdf
bubba22349":23byip7o said:Econoline":23byip7o said:
Yes the rings should rotate after the pistions ring groves are cleaned with a ring grove cleaner or you can use an old broken ring to scrape out the carbon build up. This wouldn't have happen if past owners had did regular oil and filter changes. In the past i rebuild an International six for my wife's uncle (around 1977) though he had bought that pickup new he never changed the oil or filter for 50,000 miles. It was compleately worn out long before it should have been.
Hi Econoline, in expanding on my above answer to your post the rings absolutely need to move in the pistion ring groves. The rings have been found to move in the cylinder bore as well as the ring grove at ruffly 60 RPM while the engine is running. If you ever noted where the ring gaps were positioned while assembling a new engine then took it apart again after it's been in use for a time you would find the ring gap position will have moved. This may have been another possible reason for the "mystery Cause" of bones 92's #1 cylinders broken ring since that engine was so badly gummed up with sludge inside.
Thanks for the install tips and clearances! I just got the rings and bearings today. It seems like the ring gap is a little too wide, but the worst one was by .003 is this going to be problematic? or is it just close enough to continue with the install? Cyl 1 had the worst taper by no surprise, .023 gap at the top and .015 at the bottom (compression ring). I'm going to install try and install a piston tonight and check the bearing clearance. The kit I bought - they forgot to send the gaskets so hopefully I can get them by the weekend and see how far I can get!
Perfect! I assumed it was close enough. I installed one piston to make sure I had the right bearings and it was easier than I expected. Bearing clearance was .0015. Hopefully the gaskets come in time for the weekend. I will get the rest of the pistons installed tomorrow and Friday. Thanks again hopefully it all will go smooth and it will run better!
The stock recommendation for the compression ring gap is .015 + or - .005 so your quite close to this just a little over it at the top of cylinder it will be fine. The oil ring gap is .020 + or - .030
That Rod bearing clearance of .0015 is very good the crankshafts Rod journals and the Rods big ends are near perfect! I am perrty certain you will have a good running engine as far as the assembled short block is concerned. All that's left now will getting a good valve seal on the head. Excellent keep up the good work.
That Rod bearing clearance of .0015 is very good the crankshafts Rod journals and the Rods big ends are near perfect! I am perrty certain you will have a good running engine as far as the assembled short block is concerned. All that's left now will getting a good valve seal on the head. Excellent keep up the good work. 
Waitaminnit...
Do you mean that one of your piston rings (in the cylinder) has a gap of only .003" ?? That's WAY too tight, that ring is going to expand and bind up horribly.
For ring diameters between 2.9525" and 3.5424" (Ford 144 is 3.5"), Hastings recommends 0.01" to 0.02" ring gap clearances.
https://www.hastingspistonrings.com/tec ... -ring-gaps
Nevermind, I just learned to read the word "by"...
If you've got one slightly bigger than spec, I wouldn't worry. If it was under spec (and too tight), then I'd worry.
Carry on.
bones 92":1l6dm81x said:
https://www.hastingspistonrings.com/tec ... -ring-gaps
Nevermind, I just learned to read the word "by"...
If you've got one slightly bigger than spec, I wouldn't worry. If it was under spec (and too tight), then I'd worry.
Carry on.
Good news for the most part from this weekend! Everything has been reassembled and it looking better than ever, I took the time to clean every nook and cranny. It was like it came from a lake It was awful, but now its actually serviceable. I had the falcon running better than ever and it is actually starting when I turn the key without too much fuss. After I got it warmed up I readjusted the valve lash, dwell and timing. Then I went ahead and did the compression test and it paid off after all!
1:120
2:140
3:140
4:145
5:135
6:140
I know it's not perfect but way closer than before. Thanks for all the help during this project!!
After getting all that accomplished today I decided to hook up the vacuum and pcv lines. It ended up making it idle a little rougher. Not only did it idle worse but I have no vacuum advance so when I hit the throttle it bogs down. Hoping you all can help me diagnosis this as well. I didn't spend a lot of time testing this other than using the timing light and noticing the mark never moves. Let me know what I should to do ID this problem. it is the LOM dizzy
Again thank you all for helping build this thing back up I know it will be on the road soon!
1:120
2:140
3:140
4:145
5:135
6:140
I know it's not perfect but way closer than before. Thanks for all the help during this project!!
After getting all that accomplished today I decided to hook up the vacuum and pcv lines. It ended up making it idle a little rougher. Not only did it idle worse but I have no vacuum advance so when I hit the throttle it bogs down. Hoping you all can help me diagnosis this as well. I didn't spend a lot of time testing this other than using the timing light and noticing the mark never moves. Let me know what I should to do ID this problem. it is the LOM dizzy
Again thank you all for helping build this thing back up I know it will be on the road soon!
"... it is the LOM dizzy..."
& SCV carb?
(sorry I'm a bad boy. I ck in on so many threads [at several sites] I 4get all the running info.) I hada put up a memorable subject line
just to orient mah Alzheimer's~
Do U have the very correct PCV valve fr the motor Y/M/M engine U have? Many just grab any pvc offada self serve shelf.
As I recall its a 144 motor? Yr...the line's clear, good? Shake the valve like a mix on the rattle can paint'n it clicks at each end?
Many put all the info in their sig, below for ol duffers like me to double ck all the pertinent
(C mine below, but i went over board, ego ya know...)
& SCV carb?
(sorry I'm a bad boy. I ck in on so many threads [at several sites] I 4get all the running info.) I hada put up a memorable subject line
just to orient mah Alzheimer's~
Do U have the very correct PCV valve fr the motor Y/M/M engine U have? Many just grab any pvc offada self serve shelf.
As I recall its a 144 motor? Yr...the line's clear, good? Shake the valve like a mix on the rattle can paint'n it clicks at each end?
Many put all the info in their sig, below for ol duffers like me to double ck all the pertinent
(C mine below, but i went over board, ego ya know...)
Congratulations that's a very good improvement will help it run much better. Ok now on to the bogging yes more than likely this is going to be connected to the LOM advance system. First thing to check that the distribtor vaccum canister will advanceing the Distribtor and that it will hold a vacuum if it dosn't it will need to be replaced. Check that the vaccum line coming from the carb that it's not plugged up with dirt or any other kind of junk. If I rember right you did clean the carb good already right? If not you need to make sure that all the vaccum passages are clean and free of any blockages. Plus you may need to replace the SCV on the carb if it wasn't already changed. Keep up the good work and soon you will be cruising around in that 1962 Falcon. One last thing when your doing any of the carb's final tuning of the idle mixture screw and the curb idle setting everything needs to be hooked up on the engine as it would be when your driving it on the street. This includes al the vaccum lines and PCV and its lines, plus the air cleaner also installed. Best of luck! Hey guys two night of trouble shooting and plenty of beers later, still can’t ID the problem. I have the scv carb and lom dizzy. I have re-cleaned the carb and vacuum passages. The vacuum canister is new and if I suck on the hose it does advance. (Not sure if there is a better way to test it) I have the correct but old pcv valve and I took it off cleaned it up a little and shook it, and it sounds like a paint can. The scv is also new, I put the old one on and no change. The falcon will only start if I have the pcv valve disconnected. Where to go from here I’m not sure? But either way, I’m posting from the driver seat and still proud of how far it’s come. Any help is much appreciated!
Similar threads
