You're 4W drums, right?
First up is a safety check. While you stand really hard on the brakes, get a friend with at least half an idea, to feel the flex lines. They're looking for swelling under pressure, or even weeping.
When you're sure all this is sorted, block the front wheels, loosen the rear wheel nuts and jack up under the diff, raising both rear wheels. Place chassis stands just forward of the rear torque boxes/spring eye bolts and lower the jack slightly to load up your stands. Remove the rear wheels (lay them under the rockers for insurance).
Pull off each drum and tap/brush the dust away. It's messy and may contain asbestos if the brake pads are old. Look up NIOSH details for asbestos in brake linings if unsure of what to do when cleaning. If everything in there looks OK (even wear, no leaks or crustiness), place the drum back on the axle and see how close the pads are as you push it home. Also note that the short brake pad goes towards the motor, while the long pad goes towards the rear. They should be adjusted outwards such that there is the faintest "hiss" of rubbing when you rotate the drum in this situation. Adjustment is by the star wheel at the bottom of the backing plate. Once you've achieved this adjustment at the rear, place the wheels back on (nuts finger tight), and lower the car. Retorque the rear wheels.
If you try this adjustment without the jack under your diff, the hand brake cable will need to be slackened off to avoid a false reading, then retensioned.
When doing the front adjustments note that you also need to remove the whole hub to get into the brakes. Take care not to get grease onto the brake areas, or brake dust into the bearings. Also have the car in gear (manual) or in "P". The bearing preload is set on final reassembly by spinning the wheel and tightening the centre nut at once, until all "slop" is taken up. This should not slow down the wheel's free spin at all. Loosen the nut up to 1/16th of a turn - if required - to allow the pin and castellated nut to work with the hole in your spindle. Use a new pin, not a 2" nail! Remember final wheel nut torquings on the ground.
That's your basic drum brake adjustments in a nutshell. As to the Wilwood valve - I would fit one if I could afford it - they are pricey over here, but the lever one is easier to find the same position setting each time compared to the cheaper screw knob setups.
Cheers, Adam.
First up is a safety check. While you stand really hard on the brakes, get a friend with at least half an idea, to feel the flex lines. They're looking for swelling under pressure, or even weeping.
When you're sure all this is sorted, block the front wheels, loosen the rear wheel nuts and jack up under the diff, raising both rear wheels. Place chassis stands just forward of the rear torque boxes/spring eye bolts and lower the jack slightly to load up your stands. Remove the rear wheels (lay them under the rockers for insurance).
Pull off each drum and tap/brush the dust away. It's messy and may contain asbestos if the brake pads are old. Look up NIOSH details for asbestos in brake linings if unsure of what to do when cleaning. If everything in there looks OK (even wear, no leaks or crustiness), place the drum back on the axle and see how close the pads are as you push it home. Also note that the short brake pad goes towards the motor, while the long pad goes towards the rear. They should be adjusted outwards such that there is the faintest "hiss" of rubbing when you rotate the drum in this situation. Adjustment is by the star wheel at the bottom of the backing plate. Once you've achieved this adjustment at the rear, place the wheels back on (nuts finger tight), and lower the car. Retorque the rear wheels.
If you try this adjustment without the jack under your diff, the hand brake cable will need to be slackened off to avoid a false reading, then retensioned.
When doing the front adjustments note that you also need to remove the whole hub to get into the brakes. Take care not to get grease onto the brake areas, or brake dust into the bearings. Also have the car in gear (manual) or in "P". The bearing preload is set on final reassembly by spinning the wheel and tightening the centre nut at once, until all "slop" is taken up. This should not slow down the wheel's free spin at all. Loosen the nut up to 1/16th of a turn - if required - to allow the pin and castellated nut to work with the hole in your spindle. Use a new pin, not a 2" nail! Remember final wheel nut torquings on the ground.
That's your basic drum brake adjustments in a nutshell. As to the Wilwood valve - I would fit one if I could afford it - they are pricey over here, but the lever one is easier to find the same position setting each time compared to the cheaper screw knob setups.
Cheers, Adam.
