Burnt Rotor - Voltage Regulator/Alt. to blame?

[Anonymous]

The best part about owning a classic mustang is that my "car life" is never boring, just when things are going great and my mustang starts to act normal, it throws me for a loop and reminds me of how much attention it needs! Here's the latest:

(66' coupe 200 pertronix 1 w/flamethrower, rebuilt engine <500 miles ago, new batt. cables, new wires, etc etc...)

After putting in the pertronix 1 and flamethrow i noticed immediate improvements and better overall conditions. After the flamethrower especially, i noticed a stronger, quicker start, which I love. the problem is, it hardly starts this way consistently. I have a new Optima battery too. Problem typically occurs after a good drive of 10-45 minutes and i need to start it again it starts weak and never "catches" Meaning, i can turn it over no problem (not quite as strong as is capable) but enough to turn the engine...but it simply never starts. I've noticed that my rotor has gotten burned on the contact point. My problem goes away after replacing the rotor (the 2nd one in two months!). Could this burnt rotor and inconsistent starting be a product of a faulty mechanical regulator and old alternator?? Any help is much appreciated! Thanks as always for the great support!

 

[pedal2themetal45]

I don't think it would be the regulator or the alt...
Do you have headers or stock exhaust??
This may sound funny but you may be experanceing heat soak of the starter if you have headers.. it would cause the starter to turn over slowly..
MMMM burnt rotor.............. could be the flame thrower coil... next time replace the rotor and cap with a high performance one if you haven't.
just a thought.
tim

 

[wsa111]

I had a problem with the stock distributor cap & rotor arcing. I at that time had the pertromix ! & flamethrower coil.

Either use a high performance alkalyd resin material cap & rotor to stop the carbon arcing, that is also causing the sluggish cranking when this arcing occurs.

The other thing to do is get a duraspark distributor where the terminals are spaced out more. Since I went with the duraspark all my ignition problems are solved.

The stock cap & rotor is can not handle 40k volts. William

 

[Anonymous]

I have stock exhaust. This problem occurred prior to installing the flame thrower. I’ve noticed a better (sometimes), stronger start since putting in the new coil. But this rotor is causing me serious grief. Who makes “high quality/high power/performanceâ€￾ caps and rotors?

 

[Anonymous]

william-

sounds like you know your stuff, been there done that more than some of us. in your personal opinion, what would you recommend me upgrading to for reliability over performance....ie....ds 1 or 2, coil, carb (i've got a stock autolite), solid state voltage regulator, etc etc...I'd appreciate any recommendations you may have.

thanks!

Jeff

 

[Anonymous]

william where do i find the alkalyd resin cap & rotor you recomend, mike

 

[Anonymous]

You do not mention replacing the dist. cap when replacing the rotor--Except as a matter of "just getting it home" i would always replace the cap and rotor as a pair. A worn cap will eat up rotor buttons. If you have been replacing both ignore this if not consider the worn contacts on the cap create an increased clearence causing a longer gap which is a hotter gap. Also a cracked cap can be impossible to see when cold but opens up when hot causeing the problem you describe. It will also allow moisture in the cap resulting in burnt rotor tip. Have actually had this happen personnally -drove me nuts till some old geezer said to check the cap--With ign upgrades try to find "Blue Streak' or 'Accel" quality cap and button.

 

[wsa111]

Jeff, the solid state voltage regulator is much better than the mechanical type.

Get a DSII duraspark distributor & with a msd which will connect directly via msd's adapter directly to the distributor. Thus you do not even use the ford module.

Izzy, the high performance caps & rotors for the regulator distributor I think was made by standard ignition, blue streak?? It has brass terminals instead of aluminium.

Just remember if you purchase any distributor, be it a standard distributor or a duraspark, get the advance curve modified, this is critical especially in an engine with a wilder camshaft, higher compression & other modifications.

I do all my own distributor advance work, but if you don't have the tools & proper equipment, it can be done at any competent shop if they have a sun machine.

I have refered many members to Scott @ reincarnation.

http://www.reincarnation-automotive.com ... index.html

A light spring kit made by mr. gasket #925D can be purchased at jegs or summit. William

 

[Anonymous]

Izzy, the high performance caps & rotors for the regulator distributor I think was made by standard ignition, blue streak?? It has brass terminals instead of aluminium.

yea the aluminum terminals are junk. I cant remember the brand name but their stuff always comes in a red and white box, it was the best set i found as the other ones (brass also) had little tabs at the bottom corner of each terminal and the ones in the red and white box also had longer terminals.