Cam Change

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Hi,

Can you do a cam change with new bearings without pulling the motor? I'm putting on a new head and would like to put in one of Mike's cam kits at the same time but I don't want to pull the motor if I don't have to. Do I have to have a machine shop install the bearings?

How hard is this job for a DIY'er with minimum engine building experience?

I hope it's doable.

Thanks for the time.

Bob
 
The cam cam be changed with the motor still in place. The front bumper, radiator, and valance will need to be removed.

A cam bearing remover/installer is a specialty tool, which should be used by someone with some more knowledge. It can be tricky or impossible to do with the engine in. It will be hard to make sure that they are seated properly, and you may wind up dropping some down into the oil pan. As long as there are no obvious flaws in the bearings, and you have good oil pressure now, just leave the cam bearings alone and slide in the new cam.
 
I asked a similar question before but I want to do it without removing the head! Is the only thing keeping this from being a possibility the lifters? If so, wouldn't it be possible to use a magnetic tool to hold the lifters up in the their shafts while removing and replacing the cam?
 
nope, you'd need 12 magnetic tools, and they'd have to be very strong
from all i've heard those things don't like to come out once they're in
 
nope, you'd need 12 magnetic tools, and they'd have to be very strong
from all i've heard those things don't like to come out once they're in

I tried that method and it didn't work, the magnet kept sticking to the side of the block (maybe it was TOO strong a magnet) , instead I took of the oil pan and pushed them from below...

The cam cam be changed with the motor still in place. The front bumper, radiator, and valance will need to be removed.

That's the way I did it! BTW it's no day in the park either, but it's easier than lifting the engine out of the car :?

Alex
 
You can hold the lifters in place using a thick grease like bearing grease on the end of a rod.
 
Jim,

I have to admit that I'm a bolt-on guy. I worked on my high school hot rods--62 Falcon with a 144 2 spd auto---major mods chrome air cleaner, wire wheel covers, set of buckets and console from a big ole Buick I found in the junk yard

66 Mustang 289---Put a four barrel manifold on that one with a Holley double pumper. After the bog it roared pretty good.

Between those cars and now---sensible cars for a married Air Force lifer. You can't go TDY and leave your family to drive the "project car". Changed oil, did tune-ups, changed the ignition module on a 87 Tempo once.

Now I'm "retired" and I'm right in the middle of my mid-life crisis. So a 68 Mustang with a 200 in-line seemed the logical choice.

Bottom line--I'm learning with every post, every chapter read, every question answered. It makes sense to me to change the bearings if I have the head off to change the cam and bearings come in the cam kit I'm looking at buying. But as David say's it's the details that get you. There is no reason to rebuild the bottom end as a newly rebuilt motor was put in by the PO. They must have done a good job because it runs good has good power compression is 160 or so in each cylinder and it doesn't burn oil. Not real sure what the oil pressure is but the guage is almost to the center. In the Falcon of yore it only cleared the bottom line. It also dumped the five quarts I put in out PDQ when I changed oil without ensuring my gasket from the old filter came off with the old filter.

So I'm doing the cam change because I want to smoke the tire's----ala Doug----and I guess I'm leaving the cam bearings alone. How's that sound to the forum.

Whew--that's a long winded way to say---cause I didn't know any better.

Bob
 
Remember also, the cam won't slide out of the bore unless the engine is rolled to top dead center-otherwise, the lobes of the cam will bump into the connecting rods and block the cam from coming out!
 
Howdy Bob:

If the cam bearings were installed fresh when the bottom end was rebuilt by the previous owner and oil pressure is good, chances of installing a new cam - without new cam bearings, and having it work out well are good.

How many miles since the engine was rebuilt? As Jim said, the cam bearings are the last to wear out on a stock engine.

I'd recommend installing new cam gears and timing chain to be extra safe.

It will take more than a cam swap to equal Doug's performance!

Enjoy the journey and watch out for the details. It's good to know someone is listening to me.

Adios, David
 
Thanks David,

I know I won't be running against Doug anytime soon I just hope to be running and shifting and not bouncing and squeaking sometime before spring.

I have almost 20,000 miles on the car since I've had it and the PO said it was rebuilt 5000 miles before I got it. So 25 to 30 thousand or so.

What should I look for when I pull the stock cam out? Is there some sign of damage on the old cam or bearings that I can look for prior to installing the new one?

Cross your fingers.

Bob
 
Look for grooved or rough surfaces on the bearing. If the babbitt surface is worn down to the copper or steel backing they will definitely need to be changed. A smooth silvery surface on the bearing is ideal.
 
So I'm doing the cam change because I want to smoke the tire's----ala Doug----

So I am a good influence after all! :twisted: :twisted: :twisted: :wink:

You might want to think about getting a double roller timing chain & gears from FSPP. I have a picture (somewhere) on what "spirited" driving did to my stock one last winter when I freshend up my current motor.

I'll dig the pic out tonite & post it.

Later,

Doug
 
Hi,

Thanks for the tip Doug. I've seen your blown timing gear either in a post or on your web site. I asked the forum earlier about the double roller and the consensus was, the timing chain is not one of the places I should try to cut corners on.

I'm just ordering the kit from FSPP along with push-rods. I'll be able to use the bearings when I rebuild later. I had a set-up ready to order when my tranny told me the T-5 conversion had to come first. Then the squeaking, groaning, shimmy told me the suspension was next.

So I stopped sending money to my college student and started spending it on the Mustang. Had to change my phone number thou, couldn't get a line out to order parts. :D

I really hope to have my engine order ready again soon just waiting on the machine shop to give me the O.K. on the head I just sent em.

Thanks for the timp on what to look for sleeper, a smooth silvery surface it will be.

Bob
 
I founf this tool in the Summit catalog, maybe it works for removing the sixes stubborn lifters :? :(

sum-w84004.jpg


http://store.summitracing.com/default.asp?target=egnsearch.asp&N=0&Ntk=P_SKU&Ntt=SUM-W84004

Alex
 
Nice find Alex!

Any consensus if this tool will actually work for pulling the lifters out of a six? I just feel using a magnet and/or grease on the end of a stick will end up being nothing but hours of frustration. I've got 2 good engines with their bottom ends sealed up nice and I'd rather not pull the pans to change cams if at all possible. For $16.95 it seems like a miracle tool that's to good to be true, kind of like a late night infomercial.....any thoughts?

Thanks,
Jay
 
The only prob I forsee is hood clearance at te rear if the engine is still in the car. If the hood is off or the engine is on a stand then I think it would work.
 
The only prob I forsee is hood clearance at te rear if the engine is still in the car. If the hood is off or the engine is on a stand then I think it would work

You're probably right....as I see it the "only" way is the messy way, push them from below with the pan removed... :(

Alex
 
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