Camshaft Degreeing

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Anonymous

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i need help on degreeing my cam shaft in my 67 mustang with the 200 in it. i was told that the replacment timing chain is 7 degrees retarded, so i need help on advancing my cam. anyone out there able to step bye step it for me?? :D
 
To have it mean anything you need 4 things.

A degree wheel with mounting stuff
degree.jpg



A dial indicator made for measuring cam lift (some may not fit inlines especially the 200)
lift.jpg


A standard dial indicator or spark plug insert tool to set TDC.

And the 'cam card' that gives the exact specs for the cam you are dealing with. Without the card you might as well just guess.



You can buy a set like this COMP one from your favorite mail order place like Jegs or Summit. This one even comes with a video.
http://www.jegs.com/i/Comp%20Cams/249/4796/10002/-1
2494796.gif
 
The engine in the pictures had a stock factory crank, cloyes roller chain, and an Ereson(sp?) standard ground cam (not a crazy custom grind). I first installed the chain the way I thought was 0*. Turned out to be like 40* off, we then looked at the directions for the chain and found we did not understand the markings on the crank sprocket, after installing it the right way for 0* we were like 9* off. Setting the sprocket in one of the alternate positions got us within a couple of where we wanted to be, I dont remember which way we went but its been performing good. Glad I took the time to degree it, if I would have trusted that 0* on the chain was 0 I would have been off and maybe never known it or maybe still be thowing money at it trying to make it run right.
 
You can take a more redneck approach that only requires a dial indicator and two solid lifters/pushrod.

Count the flywheel or flexplate teeth. Divide 360 by this number, to give a figure around two-and-a-bit. What this means, is that per one tooth and one valley, is that many degrees. It's enough space that you can eyeball fractional amounts of it, down to a single degree or less.

Set the motor up sideways on a bench, with 6" blocks of wood supporting the bottom rails. Mount the flywheel, and turn the motor over to near TDC but not quite there. Use Liquid Paper to mark a tooth on the flywheel somewhere easy to eyeball square-on. Make a light "match mark" with thin pencil or felt-tip, on the bellhousing mating flange. Set your dial indicator on the piston tip and turn the motor past TDC until the reading is replicated. Make another match-mark on the block. Halfway between these two is your TDC reference. Rotate the motor to this point.

Now drop the solid lifters into their bores with a little moly grease on the bottoms, and set up your dial indicator so that the exhaust pushrod thrusts squarely into it. Rocking the flywheel gently will reveal whether it's TDC compression or exhaust stroke. You want the former.

As the flywheel is now rotated, watch the dial indicator. It will travel lightly up and down, but when you notice 50 thou of genuine lift, stop and mark the flywheel opposite your TDC mark on the block. Keep turning the flywheel until you get to TDC again. Stop, and write down the lift measured in thou. Now resume turning until the lift is a mere 50 thou again, and mark the flywheel.

Counting the shorter way to the TDC mark on your flywheel from these 50 thou marks, will give you a tooth count. Multiply this by your degrees-per-tooth figure. Now you have the degrees noted at 50 thou of exhaust opening, and degrees noted at 50 thou of exhaust closing. You also have the exhaust valve lift at TDC.

Do the same but on the intake lifter/pushrod, and note the corresponding three figures.

Now compare both to the cam card. Work out whether the events are happening before they should, or after they should. If they're too soon, the cam is advanced.

Should you change the cam degreeing - whether with an offset key or deluxe timing set, make sure to re-check the numbers. You should also check lift at TDC, as when the cam is dialled correctly it ought to be within about 15 thou of spec.
 
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