car jumping in gear

[rustywagon]

The car is 1966, carb adjustments doesn't have anything to do with jumping. I actually replaced original Autolite hoping it would solve the jumping. Thank you all for your help. I will try to set the timing this week.
So far - no jumping..... Car seems to accelerate/run bit better when it's cold....
Thank you all for your help, I will follow advice given.

 

[chad]

if each cyl is w/in 10% of each of the other 6 cyl that's good.
"60 - 120" is way off.
The guage, after the driver 'taps' the key a few times will rise & go no further. That's the reading. Hope it's 120'n not 60.
Not sure what is meant by the numbers U list, if U have the book U may B all set, confusing to me as shown here. I'll let it go.
Later gater

 

[rustywagon]

I started the car in the morning, ran smooth, accelerated nicely.
As it got warmer, it started loosing power, felt like misfiring, when I stopped I had to press on brake, it was jumping so bad it was moving the car. I had to change to P on lights, it would die in D....
Vapor lock? How do I find out, if it's vapor lock?
Bad/overheated ignition coil? How do I find out/measure if I have bad IC?
I have some knowledge of basics and know ho to work with el. meter.
Any other ideas/inputs very appreciated - battling with this issue since I got the car, had 2 mechanics to look at it....
Thank you, Michal
what type of coil my car needs?, with our without internal resistor?

 

[chad]

dozens of things in my mind
coil too hot, points loose, cloged exhaust, cloged fuel filter, low level in carb bowl, vapor lock (less likely as that slows/sputters, no run at all - till heat/lack of fuel vapor in venturi & unfreezes in carb in 10 min to start again), also does not seem like SCV/LOM mismatch but needs checked ...

Fuel system v Ignit system
Each is checked out by starting at the begining (not middle), proceeding methodically to nxt step (no steps skipped ie components) all the way to the end. U started a lill on 'fuel'. Go a lill further w/that. All the way frm gas tank thru to carb interior.

 

[Lazy JW]

every each cylinder was 60 - 120, all cylinders have the same readings.
The needle was jumping 60 - 120, probably cheap gauge.
There was not any difference when I added the oil.

Proper compression testing technique is to remove all spark plugs, then hold throttle wide open while cranking the engine through several compression strokes.

 

[bubba22349]

I started the car in the morning, ran smooth, accelerated nicely.
As it got warmer, it started loosing power, felt like misfiring, when I stopped I had to press on brake, it was jumping so bad it was moving the car. I had to change to P on lights, it would die in D....
Vapor lock? How do I find out, if it's vapor lock?
Bad/overheated ignition coil? How do I find out/measure if I have bad IC?
I have some knowledge of basics and know ho to work with el. meter.
Any other ideas/inputs very appreciated - battling with this issue since I got the car, had 2 mechanics to look at it....
Thank you, Michal
what type of coil my car needs?, with our without internal resistor?

Sounds like a fuel delivery issue. Check fuel pump by doing a pressure or volume test. Check that fuel filter is clean. Check rubber fuel lines are in good condition (no cracks) from fuel tank forward, fuel cap, fuel tank pick up sock.

Fuel pump testing
To check if your getting enough fuel volume up to the carb, do a fuel volume test by cranking the engine over. The very first thing to do is (to remove the coil wire to keep engine from starting) next with the fuel line disconnected at the carb's fuel bowl inlet and routed it into a fuel safe container. You will be looking for a pint of fuel volume in 20 seconds of cranking. If this test shows good volume then inspect the fuel filter or replace it. If there is a lack of fuel volume you should look at the condition of the fuel lines especially from the pump to the fuel tank if they all look good then examine or replace the fuel pump. Are there signs of the rubber in the fuel lines as being dried up or has surface cracks and or it may also be very soft and is collapsing etc. blocking fuel flow. Next would be the fuel tank pickup tube sock a deteriated sock can let the engine run ok at low speeds and yet restrict the fuel pickup tube as you need more fuel. The rest of the fuel system venting depending on the year of the car and if it's be modded from stock, check for a bad fuel cap by cracking it open part way, and or the fuel tank vent line, or if equipped with a vapor recovery system they can also be plugged.

You can test your coil by using a volt / ohm meter to test primary and secondary (see below link for info on coil testing). Test it at room temperature than when it's hot. You can get a good idea of the coils condistion by loosening up the coil wire (center tower) before you start the engine. Start the engine then pull the wire and see how far the spark jumps use a set of insulated pliers or a wooden clothes pin to hold it so you don't get shocked. The spark should jump from a 1/2 inch to a 1 inch or more, the color of spark should be bright blue. Good luck Edited 9/14/2018 at 7:46 PM Az. Time.

Coil testing Basics with a Volt / Ohm Meter
https://itstillruns.com/test-ford-ignit ... 41137.html

One final though "What Goes In Must Also Come Out"! Check out your exhaust system for a plugged up catalytic converter (if equipped), a plugged up muffler, a bent up or a collapsed, crushed, or a flattened out tail pipe. Good luck in the hunt

 

[Funky Cricket]

I would check for vacuum leaks at the carb and distributer (if vacuum advance). The black vacuum lines should all look good with no cracks or breaks. The carb should be sealed to the intake and not have air leaks at mount, or in carb it self.
I would also check Transmission fluid, make sure some old sludge is not causing the trans to stay locked up as you come to a stop. Make sure fluid is looking clear and doesn't smell like burnt toast.

 

[rustywagon]

hi guys, I will follow your recommendations
could someone post a link to ignition coil I should use in my car?
I want to replace it, not sure what to get, resp. I don't know if, it should have internal resistor or not.
1966 6 cyl., 3.3L station wagon. AT
Thank you, Michal

 

[bubba22349]

You would not want a coil with an internal resistor on your 1966 Ford car! Stock Your Ford has a resistor wire built into the wire harness (also Fords & Mercurys from 1965 to 1974). However you also said that the car has a Pertronix ignistion system installed in place of the old ignistion point system. To answer your question as to which coil to use I would need to know which Pertronix unit is installed in the Distribitor, an Ignitor I, II, or III, so Take the Distribitor cap off and determine which Pertronix you have.

Did you test your current coil primary and secondary output according to the my last above post? What kind of coil do you have now? Do you know if the Pertonix is wired correctly? The Pertronix red wire should have a full 12 volts going to it test it with your volt meter. Good luck

 

[chad]

we're still chasing some Q that were never answered. Kinda "stabin in the dark" w/o answ.
Did U get 'the Handbook'? There's a bit of difference between these different models. U say I have a '66 200 ci but have U IDed it by casting numbers? Is it now a '68 + carb (U say "Autolote is gone")? Have not IDed the dizzy for us ("It has a Pertonix"). There is a pertonix coil for that (same company).

In some cases the separate components in the: 1) ignit system V the 2) fuel system can throw a curse on any diagnosis of a starting/running problem until all is IDed 'as is', "as supplied", in the car currently.

Still not clear what "jumping in gear" might be (as seen by an observer).

 

[bubba22349]

so rustywagion what did you find out about the Pertronix that is installed in your 66?

 

[rustywagon]

Hi guys,
it had Autolite 1100 with automatic choke, it still has Load O Matic distributor in it with Petronix ingnition. I replaced the carb with Universal carburetor https://www.vintageinlines.com/product- ... t-carb-new.
I apologize for my ignorance, but where do I find casting number?
What do you need to know about Pertronix?, model?
C4 transmission

I took it to mechanic (specs in classic cars), he checked all, did timing, car runs better, but still jumps a bit. He doesn't know too much about 6cyl., said it's hassle engine.... He had one van (his son's) with 6in it in shop fixing, said it runs depends on weather....

There's some smoke from PCV valve/blowby, rings are worn, could it choke the carb?
Any additives to "fix" blowby?

Thank you!

 

[bubba22349]

Yes in order to recommend a good coil to you would need to know what model of Pertronix you have! Replace the PCV if it's old. Not a lot you can do about worn rings besides replace them if the blocks bores aren't worn too bad. I guess you could also try some good engine flush, then fresh oil and filter change add a can of "Restore" in place of one quart of oil and or also use thicker oil like 20 / 50. Good luck

 

[chad]

"... Load O Matic distributor..."
LOM
frm ur research on "tech archive" &/or the Handbook U know it must have Spark Control Valve carb to match.
LOM / SCV '67'n earlier.

"... it's hassle engine..." if U have not done the research we recommend.

"...casting number?..."
for what?
* the carb has some hand stamped numbers (impression, not raised like castings) on the side/edge of the mounting flange.
* The motor hasem on the pass/left side behind the dwn tube of the exhaust (these R cast or raised ltrs/numbers).
* The head's can B seen by looking dwn frm above w/hood opened (cast also).
Again, all in the literature (above 4 free, the Handbook ~ $20).

 

[rustywagon]

Pertronix, 1266, label says Ignitor Ford 6 cyl., pre 1965.
Installed by mechanic, I've never checked the box, my car is 66... could it be the issue?
I have cheapo coil with internal resistor.
Hassle engine said the mechanic, I just wanted you to know what I deal with.... I had 2 mechanic specs in classic cars to look at the car, both respected and known around, both were not so thrilled to work on it....
Slowly checking all other stuff suggested before.... Thank you!

could blow by choke the carb?

 

[bubba22349]

Pertronix, 1266, label says Ignitor Ford 6 cyl., pre 1965.
Installed by mechanic, I've never checked the box, my car is 66... could it be the issue?
I have cheapo coil with internal resistor.
Hassle engine said the mechanic, I just wanted you to know what I deal with.... I had 2 mechanic specs in classic cars to look at the car, both respected and known around, both were not so thrilled to work on it....
Slowly checking all other stuff suggested before.... Thank you!

could blow by choke the carb?

The 1266 Ignitor is one of the right ones that will work in your 1966 Ford 200 engine. The coil you have with an internal resistor isn't the right match for a Ford. A good coil to use is the Flamethrower 45011 (3.0 ohm) see below link. There are some others to though for the money it's a good coil, if you install one of them than gap your spark plugs to .045.
https://www.summitracing.com/oh/parts/p ... ocation=oh

:rolflmao: it's a hassle engine now that's funny! As far as I am concerned these engines are simple and quite easy to work on. I guess if your not wanting to work on one of the Ford Six's or even learn the basics than that might be considered a hassle. These cars are so easy you might want to start to study about them as you have the time then you will be able to do some or most of your own repair work. something to think about though if someone thinks it's going to be a hassle to work on your cat how do you know if your going to get good service from them? Did you change out the PCV yet? Though the blow by isn't a good thing, the blow by shouldn't choke your carb. Good luck

 

[rustywagon]

I think I have electrical problem.
I drove today, it was ok.
I turned on lights, it started to choke, I turned lights off ran fine.
Where to look?

 

[rustywagon]

I replaced PCV valve, it rattles when engine is running, is it normal?
I am ordering the coil, thanks for the link.
I know the engine is simple, I am not mechanic so I am struggling, but the mechanics around do not want to work on them.

 

[bubba22349]

I think I have electrical problem.
I drove today, it was ok.
I turned on lights, it started to choke, I turned lights off ran fine.
Where to look?

First place to start with an electrical problem is to test the condition of the battery charge and make sure it's fully charged and do a load test. Many auto parts stores will do this for you for free. Then also check the Alternator's condistion if it's charging or not, again this is usally free at many auto parts stores. From your description I think you will find that one of these two or both is the cause of the electrical problem.

I replaced PCV valve, it rattles when engine is running, is it normal?
I am ordering the coil, thanks for the link.
I know the engine is simple, I am not mechanic so I am struggling, but the mechanics around do not want to work on them.

No the rattling of the PCV isn't normal, we mightbe circling back to the engines condistion maybe try the compression test again. This time pull all the spark plugs with the tester installed make sure the carb's choke and throdle are all the way open. Then crank the engine until the tester shows it highest reading then write it down. Repeate on the other cylinders. Good luck

 

[rustywagon]

looks like the rattling occurs only when car is in "jumping mode".
I checked battery and alternator - both ok.
voltage dropped to 12V when I turned lights on. I replaced the volt regulator, now ok.
Issue - voltage drops when car is in gear or reverse, it's ok when in neutral or park.
What and where to check?, neutral safety switch? Short in steering column?
I checked/cleaned all grounds in engine area so far (no change).
Thank you, I feel like going somewhere.....