Carb, Dist & Exhaust combo's??

[Anonymous]

I have a 65 mustang with the 200 6 cyl. I would like to start planning my upgrades and would like to start with the carb, dist., and exhaust. To gain performance and not go super pricey, what are my best options of combinations of these three components? I have already added the Petronix to the original dist. - everything else appears to be stock and it has an automatic trans. Any suggestions would be great.

Thanks,
Mark

 

[addo]

From left field, what about a Transgo shift improver kit?

You're at a point where any upgrade to existing is going to have a "flow on" effect and not be cheap. Has the motor ever been apart? What's its health - good compression or not?

 

[Anonymous]

Ok I have started the same kind of thing that i think you are going for so here is what i would say.
1. Verify TDC you can do this by setting your timing to TDC and then shut off you motor after that crank your motor till the timing mark falls on TDC then take off you cap and see if you rotor points to plug 1. Over time these timing chains stretch and it can make good solid timing hell.
2. Get a bigger coil set your gap to around .050 give or take. This dose seem to help a bit and I did notice a change in my exhaust tone and better starting.
3. Play with your timing a bit. I like mine at about 10 deg or so.
So far your at about 70.00 with a good tuneup and you will notice a bit more pep and better mpg.
4. This one depends on what you want to go for. I have played around with the old holley 1bbl 1909, A weber 34 ICT, And am working on a holley 350 2bbl. IMHO the old holley 1909 was tired I couldnt realy get anything out of it even after a rebuild and playing with jets . The weber 34 ict is cheap 75.00 from CB performance and a nice lil street carb not bad to tune. The bad thing is I had to make my own linkage for it and I dont think you can run one with a kickdown that you would need for your car. The big holley is kinda pricey new but they do pop up on ebay all the time you need to run an adapter or mod the head to fit this guy and rejet it but I havent heard anything realy bad about this setup.
5. This one is all about what you want too. Headers are nice but go for $$$ I havent seen any much south of 300.00. I'm building a set for my car right now but its a PITA I got about 50.00 in them so far and I'm putting them on tonight but it has taken about 1 month of work to get it just right and to be honest with you it looks like hell (time for header wrap). I think 2'' pipe is about right for the 200 nice flow. If you go small you do get more of a rap but loss of high end power. For me I think split headers dumping into glasspacks is just tits but if you want a bit less noise flowmasters sound good and flow nice too.
This is just my take on the thing worked for me I MIGHT have 300.00 in my setup and its good for about 25 hp by my ass dyno. Poke around here for a bit read all you can learn what worked for other people and run with it. I bet I was reading for about 4 months before I realy did anything on my car.

 

[Anonymous]

Thanks guys - I'll keep reading on this site and won't rush into anything.

 

[CZLN6]

Howdy Mark:

And welcome to the "Straight" adventure! I'm guessing by the number of posts that you're fairly new here. If so, may I suggest that you get familiar with the search function up above. Also I'd like to offer my suggestion to you for a "NOT super pricy" approach to improving performance.

After a complete an thorough tune-up, including optimizing the initial advance setting and opening up the plug gaps, with your new Ignitor-
*add the Petronix coil
*up-grade the exhaust to a 2" system with a turbo type muffler.
*Add an Autolite 1101 carb. You'll need to find one from a '63 - '66 full size Ford with a 223 six. It will have a SCV to be compatible with your Load-O-Matic distributor. It looks very similiar to your stock carb, but flow more air. Your stock linkage, fuel line, air cleaner and choke system will all be a direct swap. The only adaption is that the top of the carb adapter will need to be tapered to allow for the larger diameter butterfly valve.

The combination of these three upgrades will make for a nice improvement in performance and driveability. Tuning this combo will also prep you for more ambitious upgrades to come.

Enjoy the trip.

Adios, David

 

[66 E100 Pickup]

*Add an Autolite 1101 carb. You'll need to find one from a '63 - '66 full size Ford with a 223 six. It will have a SCV to be compatible with your Load-O-Matic distributor.

These were also found on all BB6 240's 65-66.

I have two of them, no longer compatible with my dizzys, so if you want one let me know. Mine are manual choke. Note that you may deal with rotation issues on the carb linkage depending on your adapter plate (the stock water heat plate on your SB6 rotates the carb, but the BB6's did not use the water heat plate so were not rotated).

Regards,

John

 

[66Sprinter]

Hi Mark ,

Repeating David's advice...

Get the Pertronix I and new coil first. Open your plug gap to .050" and you will be surprized at how much inprovement and pep you get. Its a great way to spend $100.

After that...exhaust and carb as your wallet allows.

E`100...whats the diff between the 1100 and 1101 carbs?

 

[CZLN6]

Howdy back All:

The differences between the Autolite 1100 and the 1101 are subtle, they look very similar.

The difference is the diameter of the plastic insert venturi inside. The 1100 measures 1.2" and is rated at 185 cfm. The 1101 measures 1.29" inner diameter and is rated at 215 cfm.

The throttle bores are also different- which accounts for the need to modify the adapter to clear the butterfly. The 1100 t-bore measures 1 7/16" while the 1101 measures 1 11/16".

John- Thanks for the tip on '65-'66 240 BB6.

Adios, David

 

[Abandoned67]

For someone like me who also is going to be looking at some little engine upgrades but I want to keep the best milage that is possible. I have already planed my exhaust setup, and I want to start thinking about other things for once the mustang is finished. I am not what you call a engine guy, I have no clue as to what is going on with them Im more of body work guy and stuff like that. Anyways what exactly does this mean

Open your plug gap to .050"

and what kind of improvements could someone with a stock 200 six expect from this sort of upgrade:

Pertronix I and new coil first

Finaly what kind of improvement would the three listed above make on the engine (Open your plug gap to .050, exhaust set up for good flow, and Pertronix I and new coil first)?

 

[66Sprinter]

Frank,

The pertronix system is not new, its been around for many years. it replaces the old points and condenser setup in your dizzy. Instead of replacing them when you do a tune up...you do nothing.

In short, its an electronic points system that regulates your spark system better and more consistent than points and condensors. It takes about 15 mins to install and you are ready to go. Most of us in the inline group as well as all the other guys with older cars have switched to this...if not a DURASPARK or DUI system.

If you mate it with the High Voltage coil, you can increase the plug gap from .032 to about .050. This increase gives you a bigger spark or flame kernel which helps make a complete burn in the combustion chamber. A bigger explosion, a complete explosion and you have better perforamce.

You can just get the coil..but the points will still go bad. So why not do both. For about $100 you can do both and come away with a car that starts just like a new tune every time.

You can search the forum or call Pertonix. Must of us use the Pertronix I since it is the most simple and has had a better rep than the Pertonix II.
Even a non-engine guy can do this mod. Best bang for the buck!

 

[Abandoned67]

Yea I read stuff on it but never really understood it untill now, thanks.

Im assuming that there is some sort of tutorial out there showing how to increase the plug gap from .032 to about .050 I think I could do the pertronix without any help

 

[66Sprinter]

Dont sweat the tutorial. Start with standard plugs for your car. You can move to other types later. If your buy cheap plugs..time to stop that bad habit anyways.

A larger coil will easily generate a larger spark..so most of us have followed in others footsteps. Start at a gap of .050" and a new set of plugs. Run em in for a week and then pull and check. Using a visual aid from Autolite or Champion..inspect your plug and see what the burn condition is. You can go larger or smaller.

I originally started at .040" then went up by .002" till I got all the way to .054". Took pictures of each step and then backed down to .050" At that point..I erased the pix and set my notes at .050" Depending on the engine and mods..you will need close to .050". So its a proven start point.

My car starts first time, every time...no matter how long it sits. Thats the benny of Pertronix and the larger coil and plug gap.

Good Luck..

 

[Abandoned67]

Ok all this info is great, thanks again. I think I might order the I6 Handbook thing. I still dont understand what this "coil" is though and where it is, Im thinking it has to do with the spark plugs or it is the spark plugs but Im still lost.

 

[ludwig]

The Pertronix goes in the distributor and replaces the points. The points/Pertronix is simply a switch that opens and closes in time to the engine rotation. The coil is the (usually) black plastic looking cylinder (or hand grenade looking cylinder) on the same side of the engine block. It provides the electricity that leaps across the spark gap to ignite the fuel. The more electricity, the bigger the spark.

1 points/Pertronix = switch
2 coil = electrical pulse
3 plug gap = where the spark is generated

With electronic ignition (Pertronix/Duraspark/DUI) you get more reliable and consistant spark in the cylinder. The larger plug gap and bigger jolt of electricty gives you a bigger/stronger spark that ignites the fuel/air mix more completely. This gives better economy, increased power and easier starts.

Gapping the plug is done with an inexpensive gap guage. DO NOT use the one that is a collection of flat blades in a case. Use a wire-loop guage. It is very cheap and will have a little lever to move the electrode up and down when you gap the plugs. Simply slide the appropriate guage wire between the electrode and the center post of the plug.

 

[Abandoned67]

Ok so that clears up alot.

 

[mustang6]

You might want to check out this site- it gives very good introductory information with good graphics.

http://auto.howstuffworks.com/ignition-system.htm

 

[ludwig]

Thats a good one. Explains everything real well. Take an afternoon to understand the automatic transmission section.

I read an article about the guy who invented the AT. It came to him sort of all at once and he sketched his ideas down, then refined them graphically as he worked out the details.
The patent office would accept a working model or paper plans and the testimony of two independent witnesses who could vouch that it worked as represented. He ended up asking about a dozen of his colleagues before he found two who understood it and could testify at the patent office.

 

[Anonymous]

Thanks to everyone for these great posts! Feel like I'm really learning a lot. One question please...when you go with the Pertronix I...do you go with the Flame Thrower I or II?

Thanks again!

 

[66Sprinter]

Hey Guys,

I have saved alot of this in DOC or PDF format..so if you are interested send me a note email...W862@yahoo.com and I will forward this stuff to you...I have electrical schematics...etc for the 66 Mustang.

Jim