carb identification

[Anonymous]

I am not the most mechanically-inclined person, however I recently obtained a 63 Fairlane with a rebuilt 200 engine in it & I will be playing around with & restoring. This is a very good website & I am glad I found it & I will probably be on here quite a bit throughout my project. Can you tell me what kind of carb this engine has & give me some additional information on it? Hopefully my picture post up. Thanks

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[Anonymous]

Looks like an 1100 series.

 

[fordconvert]

Looks like an 1100 to me. I think there are differnt numbers at the end that mean auto trans vs manual and the choke. Yours looks to be a manual choke. If it has another accelerator pump (dashpot) thing on the other side of the bowl like the side in the picture it was for an automatic transmission car. All it does is keeps the throttle from closing as fast kinda like a shock absorber, why this was more important on an AT car Im not sure since most carbs don't have them. Yours also has the vent rod plugged which is good since the plastic rods broke and the metal ones are hard to come by.

The Napa/Echlin rebuild kit part number is 2-5579. It has enough parts for either version and an exploded view diagram.

 

[Anonymous]

From my reasearch on this site, is this what they call the Autolite 1100?

 

[rommaster2]

there is some possible bad news. If it has a manual choke you might have one that is putting out alot less cfms then it shoudl be (IE one from a 140). That happened to me, which at the time i went with a pony carb, if it was now i would have bought and rebuilt a holley 2 barrel *shrug*.

Check for any numbers on it so we can hopefully figure that out.

 

[Anonymous]

The only numbers I can see on the carb are on the passenger side is "SM 144". The carb is a manual choke. Not to sound stupid, but what is cfms? If it is one of the "bad" carbs, can you please let me know. And if I did switch to a 2 bbl carb, what does that all involve? Thanks

 

[shmoozo]

Not to sound stupid, but what is cfms?

Actually, that's a good question.

CFM stands for Cubic Feet per Minute and it is a measure of how much air can be sucked through the carb at some specified standard amount of intake manifold vacuum.

A carb with a CFM rating that is too small will restrict the engine's ability to make more power as the engine revs up because it restricts the amount of air that can flow into the engine. The amount of power an internal combustion engine can make depends to a large extent on how much air you can pass through it during a given period of time.

The carbs that were originally used on the old inline sixes and other small engines from that era were often sized more for economy than for performance. If you want to tune the engine more for performance one of the things you'll likely need to do is to switch to a somewhat larger carb. It works best if you do this as a part of a comprehensive approach to performance which commonly includes a less restrictive exhaust system, a somewhat more aggressive cam, and a better ignition system.

 

[rommaster2]

Yeah though you'd be surprised how much these sixes wake up with a good carb and better exhaust system alone.

 

[Anonymous]

I am more interested in economy more than performance. I don't think I will consider getting a bigger carb, but if there is anything else I can do to the car for "economy", your suggestions are greatly appreciated.

 

[Anonymous]

rommaster2 -- The only numbers I see on the the carb is "SM 144". It is a manual choke, can you tell me if this is one of the "bad" carbs? Thanks

 

[CZLN6]

Howdy Lazy77 and all:

The correct OEM carb for a '63 fairlane with a 200 engine should be a C3OF-AA or AM. This code would be on a small metal tag (if you're real lucky) attached to one of the top cover screws. It will have an automatic choke. It only came with an automatic trans so a dash pot on the side opposite the accelerator pump should be present.

With a 43 year old car it is not uncommon to have a mix and match of parts. In 1963 engines came as 144, 170 and the brand new 200. The Autolite 1100 carb on a 144 came with a 130 cfm rating, the 170 with a 156 cfm rating and the 200 with a 185 cfm rating. Unfortunately these carbs look identical from the outside- except for the manual or auto choke, and the automatic trans dashpot. The only real difference is the inner diameter of the venturi and the main jet size.

The only way to determine the cfm of your carb is to measure the inner diameter of the venturi, or the narrowest throat inside the carb. So long as the engine is running good and you're satisfied, this is not worth doing. The time to do it is when the carb needs a rebuild and kit.

What Trans is in the car?

You can increase your mileage by-
*increasing the initial advance setting of the ignition, *airing up your tires to the max printed on the sidewalls of the tires,
*Set your low speed idle air screw to the highest manifold vacuum reading, and
*reducing your engine idle speed to the minimum.

HOpe this will help to get you where you want to go.

Adios, David

 

[rommaster2]

The carb isnt neccasarily bad just depends on if you are satisfied with it. My car just had issues with idle and top end with the old carb *shrug*, but if yours is running good and your happy with it then keep it. .

 

[shmoozo]

I am more interested in economy more than performance. I don't think I will consider getting a bigger carb, but if there is anything else I can do to the car for "economy", your suggestions are greatly appreciated.

I gather that switching to some sort of electronic ignition can help a bit with fuel economy, and there are numerous threads here in the forum about doing that. The real issue to consider, however, is whether or not you can save enough on fuel to justify the expense.

 

[fmartin_gila]

Pertronix ignition is not only good for economy. Lot easier starting, can run bigger gaps on plugs, no more points to buy, less maintenance all around than points.
Fred