Carb puking gas

[HARVEY LIGHT]

So, on the maiden voyage of the 65 to get a new exhaust system, i discovered that the carb was sticking at mid throttle, causing interesting starts and stops to say the least. I decided that the old one barrel needed to be gone through. I discovered rusty and sticking linkages, now fixed. I set the float at the spec on the sheet, which was about 3/16 higher gas level than what it had been. (Had been about 1 3/16," spec said 1" ) When I go to start it up, at first it cranks to fill the float bowl, then runs real smooth then starts to cough, sputter and die and gas is puking out of the vent. I am wondering if this is a symptom of the float setting being wrong on the spec sheet. It was a NAPA kit, since I can't get carb kits at the parts store where I'm working - Checker/Schucks/Kragen

Facts about the car. 65 Futura, with a transplanted 62/63 170, carb Ford tag # C50F (assuming either an 1100 or a 1904) spark controlled carb.

By the way the Scarebird brake conversion worked well to haul the beast back to a stop with the motor racing.

 

[Bort62]

Float too high OR fuel pressure too high.

 

[BUZZ]

Your kit should have come with a new needle and seat, I'd take it apart again and look for trash under the needle and make sure the float really floats, it may be leaking. If everything looks good I'd try it back at it's orginal float setting and see what happens. Like Bort said it could high fuel pressure but its kinda odd that it didn't have this problem before. I'd check it just in case.

 

[MikeM_66_Stang]

Well, I'm by no means an expert on carbs but I have to tell you I just did a rebuild on an Autolite 1100 this weekend, using the Napa kit, and I also had to adjust the float about that much. My car now sputters and stalls at idle. I'm beginning to suspect that the kit instructions may have been wrong on that point . . .

 

[BIGREDRASA]

The Shop Manual for the C6DF-F Carb lists Dry Float Level as: 0.371 & Fuel Level as: 0.750. The C5DF-L & C6DF-C CarbS list Dry Float Level as: 1.090

 

[JackFish]

Check the needle valve and make sure it's OK.

 

[BIGREDRASA]

Just to make sure. The measurement is taken from the gasket surface of the airhorn, without the gasket.

 

[SteveS]

When I did my 1946 I had to set the float lower than spec in order for it to not dribble in to the carb throat when hot. The float actually didn't close the needle valve fully as the carb top kept it from closing apparently.

Also I bought the carb in ca. so it was set to ca. specs which was somewhere around 1/16" above the bowl.

I reset it at 3/32" below the top of the bowl and I haven't had a problem yet and don't have any drivability problems.

I agree. A dribbly or spitting carb is probably float. But also could be fuel pressure but in this case????

 

[HARVEY LIGHT]

Thanks guys and gals - I did set the level without the gasket, my manual and the spec sheet show 1" for the rubber float +- 1/32 or 1 3/32 +- 1/32 for the brass float,. Since the float was not brass I went with the first. I'll try the second and keep you posted. By the way, needle and seat were part of the kit and replaced and the whole carb cleaned and blown out. I am not very good with carbs and therefore took my time and understood each step before doing them. In other words I READ the Directions - definitely not a guy thing my wife tells me. Later Y'all

 

[JackFish]

Check the needle valve and make sure it's OK.

I only mention it because I had a similar problem and found a small piece of wire stuck in the needle, holding it open. I think it was from a crappy fuel filter.

 

[HARVEY LIGHT]

I didn't mean to reject that thought about checking the neddle and seat. Sometimes people experience something that we would never have thought about, yet could be so closely related to the problem. When I go back to readjust the float, I'll take a look for crud in that area. Again guys and gals - thanks for the insight.

 

[JStreet]

When I did my 1946 I had to set the float lower than spec in order for it to not dribble in to the carb throat when hot. The float actually didn't close the needle valve fully as the carb top kept it from closing apparently.

Also I bought the carb in ca. so it was set to ca. specs which was somewhere around 1/16" above the bowl.

I reset it at 3/32" below the top of the bowl and I haven't had a problem yet and don't have any drivability problems.

I agree. A dribbly or spitting carb is probably float. But also could be fuel pressure but in this case????

I used the same NAPA Kit but reset the float higher to the top of the bowl. As I had issues with stalling. Made sure all passages were clear and bone dry upon reinstalling. (i really went to great lengths on cleaning all passages) I set all clearances and adjustments with the carb off the car, manually holding the choke open for some including pull-off. Left the 4th ball out. (my carb intitally had the 4th ball with manifold vac attached to the loadomatic) The float level was the only adjustment I changed.

After re-installing and making sure the SCV was properly hooked up and timing was set, I was getting OK starting and ok idle but poor drivability. (missing fires, sputtering and no power) I removed all spark plugs (relatively new) and cleaned/gapped them (they were loaded with carbon deposits) and checked the gap on my pertronix ignitor and plug wiring. I got everything on target. It fired right up with just a slight bump of the key.

Hooked up the autometer and vacuum gauge(19-20), dialed in the mixture and made sure timing was 12degrees BTC (automatic) and the '66 is purring!! Driving like new. Wow, what a change. No miss or hesitation on initial accelleration. Good even with the loadomatic!

I'll attest to the NAPA kit. It worked well for me. I triple checked my adjustments and went to ignition after I was sure my carb adjustments were correct. Moral: sometimes it's multiple problems. Especially after carb issues.

Hope this helps

J

 

[mugsy]

If you decide to re-set the float, do a float test. Take the float off and place it in a clear container of gasoline, I used a Mason jar. See if the float.. floats.

Then check the needle and seat for debris and make sure they seal.

Then re-set the float.

My bet is that its the float...

Keep us updated on the ultimate fix.

 

[ludwig]

You got different floats too. You have the foam floats and the sealed bulb floats. The sealed brass or plastic bulb can develop a hole and fill part way so it doesn't float to the top. The closed cell foam floats don't do this. They deteriorate and get saturated, then they don't float too well.

I assume you know how to check the float hight, holding the carb upside down, letting the float drop by itself and measuring the distance of travel. If that is okay, make sure the needle valve is intact with no pits in the needle or the seat. Then make sure the spring is moving freely and that the needle glides both ways freely. You check this this upside down too, then put it right side up to adjust.

 

[HARVEY LIGHT]

so I reset the float and reblew out the seat for the needle. NO HELP at all. Then I got a fuel pressure regulator and put that on set to 4 lbs (Mr Gasket jobbie). Again NO HELP. I gave up and took the carb to a local guy who specializes in carb and does really good work for decent prices. IHe found out that the seat and needle sent in the kit were "off" and wouldn't allow the needle to seat at all. He also straightened the accelerator pump flange becaues it was just a but warped. Now the bird runs really well - thanks for all the ideas.

PS OOPS I spoke too soon, it sucked some crud from the tank and plugged the fuel lines so I now need to blow them out, drain the tank and probably replace trhe sending unit ( and maybe the tank). Glad I work in the industry now.

 

[ludwig]

it sucked some crud from the tank and plugged the fuel lines so I now need to blow them out, drain the tank and probably replace trhe sending unit ( and maybe the tank). Glad I work in the industry now.

That is using a hammer to kill a gnat. Put an transparent inline fuel filter on the fuel line. When you are not so frazzed and frustrated, drop the tank, replace the intake filter sock and clean it out or replace it.