carb swap

barishiman

barishiman

Well-known member
I have an Autolite 1100 from PonyCarbs waiting for me to put on my engine. But I got to thinking and with all the mods I've done so far, would swapping to a Holley 5200 be worth it? The reason I say this is because I don't think the 1100 will have a enough to push the car after I'm ready to drop the engine back in. I do want better performance and greater HP. I thought there was a website that compared the Stovebolt and Cliffrod adapters and a how-to on installation, but I haven't been able to find it. And the one I thought was it was a dead link in my favorites. So...what to do?


Andrew
 
Several guys have done this swap and most have been very happy with the results. The 1100 is a very rudimentary carb and the 5200 is more sophisticated and offers better fuel metering.

I can't recall where the sites were with some pics, but they belong to some of our members. Though the Stovebolt adapter works, the Clifford adapter is more functional offering the correct carb orientation.
 
How about the carb spacer. According to the site, the clifford doesn't need it and the Stovbolt does. Why is that? Plus, what of a electronic choke? Could you do a manual choke or is the electronic better? How do you wire it? Full of questions here. Hard to tell?

Andrew
 
Hi Andrew,

Sent you an email with pictures. Would post here but haven't figured out how. I'm new to the picture software.

Steve
 
Andrew,
I do not a lot of people who have done that swap and other similar ones and I have never met anyone who wasn't thrilled.
The holley was actually stock on an older (70's I believe) stock car (I believe it was the mercury marquis 6 cylinder) so you can actually get the 5200 from parts stores (such as advanced auto parts, auto zone, etc.).
Later, Weber built a carb on the same design which was the 32/36 - the difference being that the weber has a higher flow rating (32/36) as well as higher CFM (320). The weber you can find (a lot of Jeeps have them) at parts stores, junkyards, weber.com, webercarbs.com, and sometimes on ebay). I am running the weber 32/36 on my 65 stang right now and LOVE it, I have no complaints - I bought the carb off ebay (brand new) had a machine shop drill me out the adapter plate and a friend build me the linkage for it (Clifford sells the adapter plates, linkage, and air cleaners for the 32/36 - but I am not a fan of the small rectangle air cleaners so I hooked up a 9" round instead).

I have pictures on the website if interested

www.geocities.com/levidodd7/65stang
 
I just thought of something.

Would I have a problem having a Holley 5200 and Pertronix II ignition setup?

Andrew
 
This is a great forum! I've been lurking around for awhile now and every single question I come up with so far is answered with a quick search. Im looking at getting the Weber 32/36 myself. At first I wanted the Holly/Weber 5200 but I couldn't find one.
 
Andrew...

I bought my 5200 from Tom at Stovebolt a few months ago... I would recommend this for you with the mods you did.... this would give you the right amount of air and fuel at idle and WOT....

The nice thing about the 5200 and the Weber is the progressive second.... I ran both the 5200 and the 1100 and as nice as those Pony carbs are... they are IMHO for concours stock applications only... if you have performance desires for your 200 then the 5200 is the only way to go....



AS for the choke... Tom only had Water Chokes available last time I talked to him... he was out of the manual and electric chokes....

I removed the water choke since I was not interested in running that... and installed a Manual ckoke I bought at NAPA... took about 30 minutes to install and gives me ultimate control over the choke... I had a thermostatic choke on the old Carter I was running before and the thing hung up a lot... I am a fan of the manual... or electric, but I could not find anyone that sold an electric choke kit for the 5200???

If you find one let me know....
 
Can somebody please tell me if this is an Autolite 1100? If the pictures show up that is.
carb_001.jpg


carb_002.jpg


carb_003.jpg
 
mustangsix is right; just peek at the second "acc.pump"-assembly on the passenger side (first pic).

its only function is to dampen sudden decceleration; the throttle shaft is connected to the lever, and this lever has to push out the gasoline in that small acc.pump-like chamber on decceleration; taking time, thus acting like as some kind of hydraulic dashpot.
 
I've been talking to Steve about the carb swap. Here's a new development. Since I want to stick with the Pertronix Ignitor II setup and it seems I have to get a new distributor. From what Steve's told me, I have to go out and buy a Ford (Mustang) 1968+ dizzy with mechanical and vacuum advance. He also told me I might have a problem with the Pertronix. Can anyone else elaborate this for me?

Andrew
 
Hi Guys,

Just to be sure there is no confusion, I didn't mean to suggest that there is a problem with using the Pertronix. I think it is the way to go. The problem, if you can call it that, is simply that the Pertronix unit that fits the vac only dizzy that came in the pre 1968 cars will not fit the dual advance dizzy needed to go with the 5200 and / or Weber carbs. So, if you already own a Pertronix Ignitor for you vac only pre 1968 dizzy you will have to buy another one to fit the dual vac dizzy.

By the way, for the record the real difference between the two is the shape of the rotor drive and the attachment of the vacuum advance mechanism. The pre 68 drive is "D" shaped. The 68 up drive is "C" shaped.

Enjoy the trip - Steve
 
simon":150f2w8x said:
mustangsix is right; just peek at the second "acc.pump"-assembly on the passenger side (first pic).

its only function is to dampen sudden decceleration; the throttle shaft is connected to the lever, and this lever has to push out the gasoline in that small acc.pump-like chamber on decceleration; taking time, thus acting like as some kind of hydraulic dashpot.
Click to expand...

I have that carb installed in my 67 Mustang HT. Used to have A/C, but removed it. Question is, Can I remove the linkage attached to this acc pump? I don't plan to put in A/C anymore in the future. Thanks.
 
Howdy All:

Webscorpion; Simon is refering to a second Accelerator (acc) pump, not air conditioning (ac). The 2nd accelerator pump will have nothing to do with air conditioning.

Steve; This is what you said, "So, if you already own a Pertronix Ignitor for you vac only pre 1968 dizzy you will have to buy another one to fit the dual vac dizzy." When you say, "dual vac dizzy", aren't you refering to the dual advance, '68 - '72 point type distributor with mechanical and vacuum advance, rather than the later distributors with dual vacuum advance/retard function?

Andrew; The Stovebolt adaptor is made with GM sixes in mind, consequently you need the stock carb adaptor to correctly orient it to our engines. As a matter of fact FomoCo used the carb spacer as an orienter too. It is not a problem as the Stovebolt adaptor doesn't stand quite as tall as the Clifford adaptor. In either case you would be wise to do some fine fitting and finishing to match ports and gaskets, to round hard edges and transitions and to open up the funnel as much as possible.

Don't expect the "out of the box" tune to be correct on either a Stovebolt H/W or a 32/36 DGEV Weber. Either will need understanding and fine tuning to get them right for your engine.

Adios, David
 
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