Carburetor Issues

[jsevern]

This is killing me. I am so close to getting this Mustang going! I am having some carburetor issues. I went to my local auto parts store and picked up a remanufactured one that was shipped from a place in Arkansas. The other day I removed the old carb and put on the new one. Fist thing I noticed was that the hood wouldn't close because the new was too tall. Also, the valve close to the engine block was larger than the hole of the engine block. So, I called up the tech services number on the carb box and the guy says that the carb that I have should work. It's an OEM Ford carb and all that I need to do is remove the spacer from between the engine block and the carb and it should work just fine. He also says that my old carb that I removed was an old Holly replacement part that he doesn't rebuild or stock anymore due to the problems that it has caused in the past. So, I remove the spacer from engine and set the new carb on top. The good news, the valve seems to be the correct size of the hole, the bad news, the new carb sits cockeyed on the engine block and none of the fuel lines and throttle pieces line up correctly. Help! What do you all recommend.

There is no information on the old carb. The new one is a Motorcraft carb. Please Help if you can. Thanks.

 

[JackFish]

Looks like you trade one issue for another.
How "bad" do you think the old one is?
Sometimes a carb kit and a good cleaning is all that's required.

Oh, and the parts guy has his head stuck up his XXX.

 

[CZLN6]

Howdy Back JS:

First, give us some details. Year of vehicle? Engine year? Details about the the carb you took off? Maybe a photo? What distributor? And more details about the new/rebuilt carb.

If the throttle valve is too big for a '64 to '69 200, my guess is that you got an Autolite 1101 as a replacement. Measure the throttle bore/bottom hole. If it measures 1 11/16, that's a good indication. Does it have a Spark Control Valve (SCV)?

Are you using a stock air cleaner?

Keep it coming.

Adios, David

 

[jsevern]

Looks like you trade one issue for another.
How "bad" do you think the old one is?
Sometimes a carb kit and a good cleaning is all that's required.

Oh, and the parts guy has his head stuck up his as.

Thanks for the info. I might just send the carb back, and buy a rebuild kit. I am guessing that I have an autolite 1100. Do you know of a good place to get a carb rebuild kit?

 

[jsevern]

Howdy Back JS:

First, give us some details. Year of vehicle? Engine year? Details about the the carb you took off? Maybe a photo? What distributor? And more details about the new/rebuilt carb.

If the throttle valve is too big for a '64 to '69 200, my guess is that you got an Autolite 1101 as a replacement. Measure the throttle bore/bottom hole. If it measures 1 11/16, that's a good indication. Does it have a Spark Control Valve (SCV)?

Are you using a stock air cleaner?

Keep it coming.

Adios, David

I've got a 67. As far as I can tell I believe that the carb is an autolite 1100 but I am not sure. I'll post some pics so that you may be able to verify the make. The new carb comes from a company called CPI. The problem with the old and new carb is there isn't a whole lot of info on the make and such..I'll have to check for part numbers. The new carb is a Motorcraft however. Thanks for the info on the measurement. I'll measure the throttle bore and see what I can find out. I'm not sure what a spark control valve is. The old carb has an automatic choke.

Sorry I can't give more info. I am really new at this Mustang thing. This is my first car that I am learning to work on. I didn't know how to change the oil on anything until about a month ago.

Thanks for all of your help.

JSevern

 

[66200i6]

Don't give up!

It's great to hear you're not afraid to just dive in, that is how you learn. There is a wealth of info here and if you can answer David's questions I'm sure someone here has the solution. If you are unsure how where to go or where to look to for this info, ask again. You'll get there.

Good luck, Ric.

 

[burnoutstang1]

I was able to find rebuild kits for the 1100 at Napa for right around 20 bucks. Search for your vehicle, then look under fuel and induction and the kit should be somewhere around there. They even had them in stock at my local store. Pretty easy to rebuild. Here's step by step instructions with diagrams. http://www.oldcarmanualproject.com/manuals/Carbs/Ford/F1100/indexf1.htm
Helped me big time. Unfortuantely my core carb was too far gone to even be rebuilt. Time to order a new one. :arg:

 

[CZLN6]

Howdy Back JS and All:

A stock '67 200 should have an Autolite 1100 and a Load-O-Matic distributor. There are several stickies at the top of this forum that explain their function and their relationship. I suggest that you buy a rebuild kit for your stock OEM carb before you send back the rebuilt. Once you get the kit in your hands read and reread the instruction sheet. It will be a fairly cheap education. IF you stock carb is in rebuildable shape, rebuilding an 1100 is only slightly more difficult than changing your oil and filter. If/when you decide to go that route, and it works out- then send the rebuilt back.

For IDing both carbs, hold them side-by-side for a visual check. IF they are not identical in appearance you probably got a mismatch. It is possible that your OEM carb was replaced at some point in it's history with a FoMoCo service replacement Holley #1940. It is not a good trade. For IDing, the #1940 have the name Autolite cast on the body in '70 & '71, and Motorcraft for '72 and later.

However, the height thing has me stumped. Most one barrels are close to the same height, Autolite 1100s and 1101s, Carter YFs, both Holley #1940s and #1946s. Earlier Holley 1904s, 1908s and 1909s and Carter RBSs were shorter.

The Spark Control Valve (SCV) is a six-sided light metal piece that attaches to the side of the carb, just to the left of where the vacuum line to the distributor leaves the carb.

Keep us oposted on what you find.

Adios, David

 

[jsevern]

Hey all,

I really appreciate all of our help and wisdom. It's nice to know that a rookie, like me, can post some questions and get some experienced advice. Thanks. So as of now I took the Motorcraft rebuilt carb back to the autoparts store yesterday and ordered a different one. The autoparts store didn't charge me for it becuase they want to make sure that it is the correct one before I pay for it. I have researched some of the info that you guys have given me and believe that the carb that I currently have is an autolite 1100. I have looked at pictures and compared them side by side. I may or may not try the rebuild kit on the older carb. I'll see if the one I just ordered is the correct one. If not I'll try to rebuild the old one. Also, I may try to rebuild it anyway just to gain the knowledge and have an extra carb on hand. In the meantime I have completely removed the smog kit and have plugged the holes into the engine block. I will wait for the carb to come in, hopefully it's the correct one, install it and then add the belts and time the engine. I purchased a timing light the other day. That'll be the first time that I have ever timed an engine. Hopefully it goes well.

My next questions, are there any other carbs out there that may be better than an autolite 1100 that I can add to the engine? I know that Clifford sells a 2 bbl carb that is pretty expensive. What do you all think? Is it worth the upgrade? Is there other necessary additions that one might need to do if one were to upgrade the carb to a 2bbl? Air Filters, Exhaust headers? Any info is helpful.

Once again, thanks for letting vent and ask questions on this forum. You guys have been great.

 

[jsevern]

Disregard my last question regarding the 2bbl carb. I found some info on the Classic Inlines site. It sounds like it's way above my head to swap carbs. Maybe at some other time.

 

[jsevern]

Has anyone ever had any luck with a Carter YF Carburetor?

 

[CZLN6]

Howdy Back JS:

The Carter YF is a good upgrade, but it is about the same cfm as the 1100. They became standard on all 170s and 200s in 1970 and remained the standard until 1979. They do not have a SCV and the linkage is on the side. If you're going to a YF you will need to upgrade your LoM distributor for '68 and later distributor that uses both centrifugal and vacuum advance.

If you want to stick with your '67 LoM distributor you will need to stick with a carb with a SCV to send the correct vacuum signal to the Distributor.

Adios, David

 

[jsevern]

Howdy Back JS:

The Carter YF is a good upgrade, but it is about the same cfm as the 1100. They became standard on all 170s and 200s in 1970 and remained the standard until 1979. They do not have a SCV and the linkage is on the side. If you're going to a YF you will need to upgrade your LoM distributor for '68 and later distributor that uses both centrifugal and vacuum advance.

If you want to stick with your '67 LoM distributor you will need to stick with a carb with a SCV to send the correct vacuum signal to the Distributor.

Adios, David

Thanks David. I was just reading about the pairing of the LoM distributor with the 1100 carb. Great info. Thanks, Jeff

 

[250six_71]

Enginequest makes an adapter to adapt a different year carb to an older 200 six. Part no CA-200. There is a picture of it on their site, and it might be an option to install the bigger one barrel carb. It's always good to have another option.

 

[chad]

The Carter YF is a good upgrade

Will he not also need adapters to go to the cable throttle? I have a Carter YF (YF 8247 S - on my '68, 170, a falcon engine? in a '70 Bronco) that is oem cable. I thought you guys had rod linkages. My carb is suckin air so is off for a rebuild today.