cheap 200 build up ?'s

ok I think I found a 200 I can get for damn near free (trading my blown turbo for it) so I was planning on this for a rebuild plan....

1. re-ring and re-bearing the stock parts after a glaze breaking/hone job at home

2. install my rebuilt 170 head on it

3. put a new cam and timing set in

4. new clutch and pressure plate

I am hoping this stays under $300-400 range which I would think is possible.

Howdy Nick:

I just thought I'd share a couple of "Murphy's Laws" of engine building with you.
1. Nothing is as simple as it seems.
2. What ever it costs, it costs more.
3. How ever long it takes, it takes longer.
4. The thing that can cause the biggest problem is the thing that will happen.

The last time I did a rebuild this way was in 1963, on a 265 ci '53 Chrysler Spitfire flathead six in my '47 Plymouth coupe. Knurled pistons, shimmed bearings, all the old way. Ahhhh, the good old days!

Does anyone knurl pistons anymore?

I wish you the best of luck.

Adios, David
yeah I have done the cheapy rebuild before on different engines. basicly I want something that I know will be up for cruising to school in (300miles each way) without and oil issues. my current 170 is starting to loose pressure and think it is only good for the rest of this year only. I don't wanna dump too much money into a motor yet since I am not sure on what I want to put in it.

Hey '62Fair,

I too am planing on doing something very similar. The 200 in my '65 Mustang has a rod knock :cry: . Well I recently picked up a used 200 short block from out near Ottawa, Ill. They guy sold it to me is putting a hot V-8 something in a '66 converible and was parting out the engine. I hope to re-hone the cylideners at home, put Total Seal rings on and maybe balance the crank, etc.

Anyway,I'm also put on a 250 head that I picked up last spring in a junk yard. With your plans, you state that a 170 head will be put on your 200 block. According to Dave and Dennis Schjeldahl's book "Falcon Six Perfromance Handbook", it sez on page 6 that this is NOT the way to go. The compression ratio will be about 11:1, which means premium gas atleast, and the valve and port sizes are too small for the flow needed. I would hate for you to put in a hotter cam (I'm planning on doing the same to my short block) and all that other $ and not have it perform as you expect :shock: . They say if you MUST put a 170 head on, then change the valves to the large dia of a 200/250 and unshroud the head. But this means more money :( .

I know that both Dennis and Dave are on this wed site, maybe ask them directly.
Howdy All:

Well, in fact, the early, kidney-shaped chamber 170 head has some advantages, none are performance related. The smaller chamber has a higher quench to bore ratio, and, I'm guessing, about 48 to 50 cc chamber volume, with .020" milled off of it.

In this case, with an aftermarket, composite head gasket of .050" compressed thickness, Nick's CR will be about 8.8:1- not too bad.

The bad news is that the 170 has about 890 cc of intake tract volume, 1.52" intake and 1.26" exhaust valves, and a 1.5" carb hole. Compared to a late model 200/250 of 1245 cc intake volume, 1.75" intake and 1.38" exhaust valves and a 1.75" carb hole.

A cam with a bit more duration and lift will be a help crutch too, with an early 170 head on a 200.

Clearly, the 170 head will be a limiting factor on the bigger 200 block, but if that's what Nick's got, that's the cheapest way to go.

Nick, I'm hopin' you'll stand the expense of freshen this head with new valve stem seal, a three angle valve job and maybe back cut the intakes.

Mugsy- the higher compression concern is an early small chamber 144 head on a 250 block. I don't know which edition of the Handbook you've got, but that statement has been refined and clarified in later versions. We're currently shipping the 5th edition. It's now at 100 pages and growing. Shrouding is always a problem with our engines small diameter bore, the early chambers only made it worse. Anyway, glad to hear someone is reading the Handbook.

Adios, David
well the 170 head is rebuilt and good (hardened seats). the stock 200 head I would prob start porting/cleaning up and prob get it rebuilt in a year or so. I am not looking for a hi po engine but just one that can cruiz at 70 mph ok and live. I would like to have the 200 head nicely prepped when it goes on (valves shrouding porting). this is just for my driver so it just needs to be able to get up to 70-75 with ease and stay there.