CHEAP AUTOLITE 1100 or Fluke

That looks like the same carburator from either source, same picture, same core charge ($90). So the question you have to ask yourself is whether or not it is worth it to buy on online and save $34, or buy one locally so you can yell at the parts store guy in person when it doesn't work or fit properly..

Why are you buying a rebuilt one? Is something wrong with your current one? Opinions on rebuilders, especially of 'oddball' carburators is not very high. Have you tried rebuilding your own?
 
I was looking to buy a autolite 1100 becuase the choke on my holley 1940 has never worked...The choke shaft has coroded in place in the hot air choke... I wanted to replace it with the autolite because it is original on my 1966 mustang 200, it has better fuel efficiency, and from what I hear lasts longer

any advice??

thanks alot


ryan
 
My advice would be to keep looking until you find a used rebuildable one... (you asked)
without a core you are looking at $240-270.. that's steep for a carb that I pickup at swapmeets for $10. A rebuild kit is like $20,plus a few dollars for carb cleaner, and your time.

Unless this is your daily driver, this is the 'off season' for most Mustangs. You would be money ahead to keep looking, I treat car parts stores as a last ditch effort. I scavenge as much as I can for 2 reasons, it gets you more involved with the hobby, and rebuilding old parts will be beneficial if you ever get broke down somewhere, you will have gained knowledge to perform your own repairs.

You'd be money ahead even if you searched for a newer YF and upgraded your ignition to either a dual advance ('68) points with a Petronix or a Duraspark I (to keep original looking appearance) or Duraspark II to get the bigger distributor cap.

To expand my advice, why specifically are you going with a 1100, it it to maintain stock appearances? My buddy put a YF on his '66 and after he installed the air cleaner you can't tell. But he upgraded to a DUI to get rid of the LOM dizzy.

The 1100 you have linked to should be a direct replacement for your current 1940.
 
Thanks for your help

The Car is a daily driver. I have also rebuilt the holley 1940 so I would be up for rebuilding an old autolite...If I could find one. Also I have also changed out the points for the petronix and a new "flamethrower" coil. Is the 68 distributor that much of a diffrence and if so then I have to use a 68 and later carbuerator too right??
Thanks alot
 
Oof, Mustang as a daily driver. While that would be nice it doesn't leave a lot of time for monkeying around with collecting parts. I'll make you a deal. I will send you (free of charge) an autolite off of my '67 200 SCV/LOM. You pay shipping costs both ways, USPS prepaid boxes are only $10 (ish). You can try it as long as you like (within reason) and then send it back after you have your carb situation sorted out.

The only real stinker in this situation is that I have never run this motor, I was told that it was out of a running '67 Mustang convertible, since it is on my floor and not in a car, the best I could do is hook up a battery and some transmission cooler lines and test fire it, however that would not tell you how well it runs on the road, so it would have to be 'unproven' parts.

The '67 and older distributors and carburators have to be used together as a matched set, the carburator with a Spark Control Valve (SCV) and the distributor is known as the Load O Matic (LOM). When you keep the LOM you are required to keep a carburator that has the SCV. If you upgrade the distributor do a dual advance (mechanical and vacuum) you open up your carburator options to any carb that you want to use, you can even continue to use your SCV carb if you like, just put a brass plug in the SCV holes and plumb the distributor vacuum directly into the intake manifold (log).

Right now I have a 240 (autolite 1100 SCV/LOM) and a 200 (1100/SCV) sitting on my shop floor, but aside from the very brief period that I helped my buddy with his '66 200/SCV/LOM before we upgraded him to a Duraspark II (wrecking yard, $25) I have no real driving experience or troubleshooting experience with the LOM. It may very well be a good spark control system, but since every manufacturer moved to a dual advance system, I *assume* that the newer distributors are better and since I have more experience troubleshooting them, I am going to stick with the newer dual advance (points or duraspark)

One advantage for you is that if you can find a points style distributor out of a '68 or newer your petronix I think will drop right in.
 
I would also throw in: My limited experience with mass rebuilt carbs hasn't been very good. I have never purchased one of this single barrels and admittedly they are a lot simpler than other, newer carbs (like a q-jet) but in my experience these rebuilders replace the bare minimum and often don't even consider things like throttle shaft wear or other hard parts. They clean, throw a rebuild kit on, and call it done. The result is a carb that probably works, but may not work well. I'd much rather be able to check out the piece in person before plunking down some money.
 
Coupeboy,

"I'll make you a deal. I will send you (free of charge) an autolite off of my '67 200 SCV/LOM. You pay shipping costs..."

I salute you! This is why I love this forum! People out to genuinely help one another. Not just with awesome advice, but also in deed!
 
Is that a Pony with the anodized finish? If so, you must be Santa's little brother. If not, they you are his nephew.
 
I have 2 autolite 1100. Pretty sure 1 is the YF. Haven't looked at the other. I know one needs a rebuild. Also have a motorcraft 2150. If you still need one let me know
 
ludwig":1ugorkid said:
Is that a Pony with the anodized finish? If so, you must be Santa's little brother. If not, they you are his nephew.
Click to expand...

just well cleaned w/lght reflectin off?
Ummm, it's very low. I could use 1 for my 250 swap into the bronk (low hood issues)?

"a 240 (autolite 1100 SCV/LOM)"
now THAT would B both low and give a lill more flow (for tq). wonder if it would fit the 250 (bolt holes/boar)?
 
I have to agree with those who have had bad luck with rebuilt carbs. I've never gotten one that ran right. The only thing that worked for me was rebuilding it myself.
 
Props for Ron aka Coupeboy, or 'good on ya' as the downunder folks say :thumbup:

And a big 'plus one' for all the advice he has given you hutchstang. Running his 1100 before you take the plunge is a great idea. You'll then have your known carb for a backup if you hit any snags with a good chance to compare/contrast before deciding.

I'll hop on the pile and say I have had terrible luck with mass rebuilt carbs. As anotherhassel alludes to, they vat 'em, slap a kit on 'em, and bench run 'em at a static 1,500 to 2,000rpm (if they even do that) and call 'em good. I doubt seriously the mass rebuilders allow much mor time for calibration beyond that. Even worse they may delete, omit or simply 'rig' assemblies...then it's on to the next one, and the next one, and so on, and so on :bang:

The scv 1100 with load-o dizzy won't be a great carb for power, but stock setups won't make a ton anyway...the combo can be tuned to be the 'mileage makers' they were once touted as.
Good luck :thumbup:
 
Alright Guys install went great got new hot air tube and installed, Fired Right up tuned it up a bit... Purrrred like a kit but....
It leaked a nice squirt from what I believe is a blown gasket.... BUT WHO CARES I GOT A CARB THAT CHOKES!!

Already ordered rebuild kit will have it in by the end of the weekend

carbdrawnon.png
 
Nice! Now don't forget to hook up the hot water carb heater under the carb too, that prevents carb icing. Glad to hear it worked right away even with the leak.
 
:beer: :beer:

Whats the best rebuild kit i can buy?? I am willing to spend a little extra here... Since I didnt spend it on a carb and becuase of Ron's Amazingness I want to re build it for him the best way possible!

:nod: :nod: :nod: :nod:
 
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