Clifford Adaptor Question

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Anonymous

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I got my 78 head and measured the bolt spacing at the flange for the adaptor order. I keep running across this 3 5/8" bolt spacing which doesn't match the intake spacing I have. Mine seems to be closer to 3 13/16" or slightly larger. The intake opening is 1.75" and everything else matches so I'm a little confused. Clifford says the bolt spacing should be the 3 5/8". Has anyone else run into this and am I ok with opening up the holes for the studs at the adaptor to intake??

Thanks
Steve
 
let me check my adaptor...I may have one for you. The adaptor I bought is too big for my 68 head. I'll do a measurement if you are interested.

Slade
 
Darn Slade I just ordered one from Cliffords. The low one that eliminates the heat riser. But it's the head/ carberator stud spacing I'm worried about. The spacing on my head is the 3 13/16". By the way I have the 1.5" adaptor to weber 5200 sitting here I can't use if your interested. Im curious as to why a lot of people doing the conversion aren't going to a cable instead of the stock linkage as well. This is for a 64 Econoline PU so I have a different set of problems.
 
yeah...that's the measurement I'll take. My head/carb stud holes on my adaptor are too large...by about 1/4 inch or so. There is not enough room to redrill the holes on the adaptor or I would have done that.

As far as the cable conversion...I asked about that earlier...how do you do it? just replace the last linkage with an adjustable cable?

Slade
 
Slade which adaptor do you have?? Again I'm surprised that no one has posted this or asked before, I read just bout every post on the 2 barrel conversion and don't remember anyone saying anything about the stud spacing bveing to wide for ANY adaptor. Does this mean there are 3 different spacings?? If so what other differences are there on this head??

As for the linkage, most new cars have a cable linkage so i would think it would be fairly easy to convert a Stang to a later cable, My Econo PU had a cable setup for the 240 motors so I just swaped that onto my 200 using a Bronco linkage at the carb. If you want I can send a kinda pic of it. Haven't figured out how to post pics here.

Steve
 
Slade,

How much are you wanting for that adapter? I have a '77 head with the larger intake opening. PM me if you are willing to negotiate a resonable price.
 
Chris,
The issue here is that the spacing is different at all. The studs on the log are a factory thing, there shouldn't be any diference from all the rest and I know there in the factory position. The fact that there's a 1/4" differance at the studs with the 1 3/4" opening and I hadn't seen anyone post on this with this problem before may not be a big issue but I'm surprised I hadn't heard of it. The Clifford adaptor without the heat riser is the way I want to go so I'll adapt what I get. Slade saying his adaptor is about a 1/4" to big (2 5/8") spacing on the carb studs on heat riser. The large adaptor spacing needs to be closer to 3 11/16" cl of studs.

I have 2 adaptors for sale. One is the Clifford small bore (1 5/8") non drilled, non heat riser type and the other is the plate 2300 (I think) adaptor to the large bore dog log opening for a Holley. I'll also have a couple of 1100 early carbs , one rebuilt by Ford in the box never used and a used carb on the 200 rebuilt about 500 miles ago (both Low vacume models for earlies) if anyone is interested.

Steve
 
Steve,

I'm sorry I misunderstood you. I was thinking you meant for some reason the bolt spacing on your head is different than factory setup. Which is why I had suggested the Stovebolt adapter that allows for some adjustment at the base of their adapter.

-Chris
 
Hey Chris,
It was confusing trying to explain it!! heheheh I'm hoping this is just a miss understanding on my part and the darn thing bolts up like it's suppose to, to may have gone before me to reinvent the wheel so I'll waite till I get the Clifford hi tech one and see what I get.

I do mean the head. The spacing is 3 11/16" cl of the studs out of the head. This all started when I tried to put a carb base gasket on the head studs and it didn't fit. The gasket was about 1/4" to small (stud spacing)yet it had the 1.75" log opening. Go figure. I have everything but the head and the new adaptor (on it's way) here in my office so I'll triple check the head and report back if the numbers change.

Steve
 
hyprdrv":1dzi0ah5 said:
This all started when I tried to put a carb base gasket on the head studs and it didn't fit. The gasket was about 1/4" to small (stud spacing)yet it had the 1.75" log opening.
Click to expand...

There are 2 different size gaskets for the stock carb setup on the '78 and up heads. (I have mine torn apart right now.) The gasket that goes directly under the stock 1.75" carb has a narrower bolt spacing than the gasket that goes under the factory spacer (or EGR plate in some cars). Both have the same hole size but different bolt spacing. I just went out to check, and the difference is about 1/4". Could it be that you just tried the wrong gasket?
 
Hi Falcon,
Well, well, well, That may be the answer. I didn't have the original carb or the original heat riser, I did have the smaller setup, ie carb,riser, and head so when I took the measurements the gaskets were the same on that set up. Might be one of those Assume things that's biting me here. Since the adaptor is on the way, I'll waite to see what happens and get back to all that are interested, Hopefully it's one of those "never mind" things and I'll be fine.
One other thing that may be of interest to those getting ready to do a conversion and thinking of a cable change, I'm using the DFAV Weber which is a reverse of the DGV carb. The linkage is on the valve cover side, this helps give several mounting points for the cable linkage such as valve cover bolts and shortens the cable a few inches. I've got a 64 Econoline PU which unlike most of you the gas pedal is in front of the motor, the engine actualy sits between the driver and passanger seats and the cable goes rearward rather than forward. This carb also allows the throttle to be a "pull" rather than a "push". Something to think about. Thanks again for the help to all of you.

Steve
 
Steve,
I feel your pain. I own a 64 Econoline van. Sure glad I converted to breakerless ignition. leaning over the driver's seat and burning myself on the radiator when adjusting points will not be missed.
I wasn't aware that they put the 240 in Econo's in 64. I thought 65 was the first year for the big block six. I have the Ford shop manual for the 64 and they do not mention the 240 CID.
My van was originally a 170. I am now running a stock '66 200 block with the 170 head. I am planning some performance improvements starting with a .060 decked '78 250 head and a better carburetor. Which carburetor would you recommend for the stock cam and stock exhaust manifold.
Dave
 
Dave,
You are right on the 240, it wasn't available till 65, I was refering to the linkage for the carberator OFF a 240. I had a 170 to start with, completely rebuilt, and now getting ready to do the weber conversion. I think that would be your best setup, the smaller weber conversion since you will be going with the 250 head and will have the larger (1.75") intake opening. I have the 260 cam installed, mild upgrade, and a header to go on once the carb is ready. By the way the Clifford single outlet won't fit in the DH so you got to go with the dual header. I also converted to the C4 tranny and the 240 kick down is a clean install for this conversion with the cable linkage. Just a side note the 240 wil fit in the early (61 to 64) even though it doesn't have the "hump" in the rear of the DH. If you want to stay with a single barrel I would go with the Carter YF.

Side note here, I'm the moderator for the Econoline group at Yahoo. Probably the biggest gathering of EconoHeads. Stop on by.

http://groups.yahoo.com/group/oldeconolines/


Steve
 
ok Dave know I'm confusing myself!! I had a 170, totaly rebuilt a 68 200, know I have a 78 head that's getting the Weber. There that should straighten it out...I think??

Steve
 
kind off of track a little bit, but do the stovebolt rebuilt 2bbls have an electric choke?
 
Hyperdrive Steve,
Is the early 1100 carb. you have for a manual or automatic? And how much would you want? I have a '66 200 w/4spd.
 
Just so you know...you can use an automatic carb on a manual tranny car. In fact I'm running an automatic Autolite 1100 right now on my 3spd tranny.

Slade
 
Bozny,
The carbs as Slade said are switchable I started with the manual and have one on an auto now. Slade has inquired about the carbs so he has first dibs. I'm still trying to get a few pics Slade hang in there, my kid took the diggy camera without telling me last week so I hope to get it back this weekend. What's the difference between an 1100 and a 9510?? Plus these are both manual choke.

Steve
 
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