Cylinder head going to machine shop

[65 Mustang]

Hello all,
After much talk, I'm going to be bringing my 200 ci cylinder head to the machine shop next week. After speaking with machinist the following work will be done:
1.) cleaned and rebuilt
2.) 3 angle valve job
3.) backcut on intake valve
4.) hardened seats installed
5.) head milled by 0.030 to compensate for head gasket thickness

I plan to reuse all stock items (springs, valves, etc..) on the cylinder head unless I'm told by machinist they need replacing. Debating having the intake opened to 1.75". Not sure, though. Thought about a carb upgrade, but plan on staying with the stock autolite 1100. I was quoted $599 for work. Hope that sounds reasonable. Thought I'd put this out here to get any feedback. Anything I'm leaving out that I should mention to the machinist? Simply looking to get my 200 ci back to stock level performance. My main concern is cylinder compression. I'm running about 120 psi on all cylinders. Stock should be 175 or so. Hopefully the cylinder head work, the addition of an adjustable rocker arm assembly and a proper tuning will do the trick. Thanks in advance for any input.

 

[bubba22349]

Sounds like a good plan, opening up the carb mounting hole to 1 3/4 is also a very good idea if you ever need or want to change the carb. You might also consider a set of 302 valve springs for a little more spring pressure. Good luck

 

[chad]

If yer sayin 'minimum cost outlay' I think a cam would B better $ spent than on the adj rockers…
easy to do right now,
also $100 for the ('69-'71) chain/gear if timing improvement is due (how many mi R on it?).
not sure U can retro a DS II to the dizzy/SCV carb U have but man, it's an inexpensive worthwile change.

Once that's head's off it's sure a shame to not due what's reasonable (more). THAT won't happen again 4 a good while…

 

[B RON CO]

Hi, the machinist should check the valve guides for wear, and let you know if they need replacing. I would also replace the valve springs. Good luck

 

[65 Mustang]

Ok. Thanks for the great info guys. If I do replace the springs, what advantage(s) do the 302's hold over stock?

 

[CZLN6]

Howdy '65 mustang and All:

Pretty exciting huh? I'm reading into your post that this is a "Tight" budget rebuild- trying for the most with minimum cash outlay. If that is correct, here are my thoughts along with what you have listed.

Ron suggested that you have your machinist inspect and assess your valve seats and valves. Also let him know what kind of driving you plan to do with this engine. Then plan on what to do with valves and seats. If the valves need to be replace, that is the time to upgrade to 1.75" intakes. Most likely the exhaust valves will show more wear, so replace as needed. On the seats, if they are ok (Most Likely, Remember most of the life of these engine they had leaded gas to soften wear.) use them.

If the spring test out up to specs. Reuse them. I would opt to add .030" valve spring shims under the valve spring. With a stock cam that will be more than adequate.

Drilling to enlarge the carb hole is a good idea as prep for future mods. If your machinist can do it cheap enough.

While the head is off is a good time to assess the timing chain and gears for excess wear. With the head off it is easier to turn the crank assembly over. Turn the engine at the crank pulley while watching the piston on the #1 hole. Turn the pulley backwards until the piston moves. Note a reference spot on the pulley. Now move the pulley forward until the piston moves again. Moving the pulley more than an inch between moves would indicate an excessively worn cam gear and chain set. A stock type cam timing set runs less that $50. And while you have the head off a good time to replace it if necessary. FYI- the head does not need to be off to change, but is sure gives you more access. but you'll also have to remove the radiator to get to the timing cover.

The good news is that chain and gear wear effectively retards cam timing, giving the engine a little more top end.

And last, I'd have the head milled .050" to gain just a little more CR.

And more- you didn't mention replacing the valve guide seals. Maybe that goes without saying but I'm saying it. Be sure to replace the valve guide seals.

I hope that's helpful. Enjoy the journey.

Adios, David

 

[Econoline]

Hi, the machinist should check the valve guides for wear, and let you know if they need replacing

+1

I agree with everything David said, if it's a stock cam and the springs are ok otherwise have them shimmed up to get more # on the seat.

But like said it would be a great time to put in a new cam and lifters. And I agree w/ keeping the stock hydraulic valve train and saving on not getting hardened seats if the seats look good. You most likely will not need the adj rocker set and if you are going to throw a bunch of money into a head you may as well go minimal with this one. Keep the look out for a C9 or later head and put your money there when you can/need/want to. Your head refreshed will suit you well with the 1100. And it never hurts to talk to another machinist and get another price. The price sounds reasonable if he's enlarging both of the valves and either installing guides or hardened exhaust seats, more for both. Assuming you are providing any parts needed except the guides and/or seats. If all you need is a back cut, valve job(3 angle), surfacing, some spring shims and valve seals, then you're paying to much. Add in bronze valve guides and you're still paying to much. With all the other stuff, you're right in the ballpark. jmo. Have you done any porting to the head?

Also, now is the time to make sure you mill/surface the head properly to maintain 9:1 compression with the felpro gasket. Have you measured the deck height and the head's chamber volume(s)?

 

[65 Mustang]

Thanks a bunch guys for all the great experienced info. Will definitely take your advice and bring it up with machinist. Plan to drop cylinder head off Tuesday afternoon. Yeah, not planning to do a complete rebuild at this time. Just looking to get compression up and have it running and idling smoother. I do have another 200 ci that's been on my garage floor for years. The dream is to one day build that up to a high performance six. Thanks again. I'll let you know how it goes when I put the cylinder head back on.

 

[chad]

I like your method of procedure as I (possibly incorrectly) understand it.
My machinist, altho I've brought him other motors (friends) & he is well recommended
would not follow the clear and helpful evidence presented here, thru the Handbook and the
Classic Inlines resources. I gave him the whole motor. I too will return at a later date once I have
a deeper understanding, and will advocate from a place of knowledge, so I can counter his facts to truly
develop what I want (as guided by the 3 resources cited above). I have an "M" head and will cont. to seek a "Tq motor".