All Small Six Cylinder Head

This relates to all small sixes
I think, a late C4, but the guy who restored my Mustang was an idiot so he might have had a late C4 indicator bezel on an early C4 transmission. I'll have to check to make sure.
 
Excellent then you could work on getting a few parts to maximize the engines tune up like a good Distributor, Coil, and a little reworking of the Carb you have. If its running good you may not need to spent more than a couple hundred. Can you post some pictures of the Engine's Carb and Distributor?
 
In general the C4 is a great trans for Drag Car use and is excellent for budget Bracket Racing. Ideally you would want a 1971 up C4 Trans with the Select Shift Valve Body and all of Fords many improvements these will have the (P, R, N, D, 2, 1) Gear Selector Pattern. If its still the Original 1965 / 66 Duel Range C4 with a (P, R, N, D1, D2, L) Gear Pattern these transmissions are decent and can be up graded easily with a 1967 to 1969 Select Shift Valve Body Swap they will bolt right in if you can locate one of them. Than you can also add a TransGo Shift Kit, a good Servo (depending on which one that you might have now), and a Small Aux. Trans Cooler and your good to go for a Transmission.
 
Sounds good. I already bought a Mr. Gasket shifter that resembles a manual shifter and can be used to positive shift without having to press any buttons on the shifter.
 
Well I guess it will all depend on what you like. I can tell you that all the parts are still available to repair or rebuild the stock shifters and its real easy to fix them to work like new again with only a few parts. Am planning on using a Mustang Shifter so if you want to make me a good deal on yours if you change it out. Also the Duel Range Shifters can be converted with all stock parts into the Select Shift type basically just by changing to the 1967 to 1969 plastic Indicator.
 
My original shifter looks pretty rough, plus it has a straight shank handle. I'm not sure what that's all about. I'll let you know if I am getting rid of it.
 
So I've heard of people using 3.700 bore pistons but is that a flexible measurement?
Most blocks will take 3.740 overbore, but because of their age going that far can lead to thin spots from corrosion. Their smallest off the shelf size for that series is 3.710 which is .030 over. They will sit .030 out the deck so you need an .070 thick head gasket or more, then deck the block to achieve 0.040 quench.
 
Thank you for the pictures they are excellent! So you have one of the better 1968 up Duel Advance Point type Distributor's they are much better that the old Load O Matic's and can work very well as is or be up graded some with a few parts too. The Autolite 1100 has been Modded somewhat, the SCV is gone and it's mounting hole was partially plugged. This Mod wasn't done correctly, it can have the Drop A Load Mods done to regain the use of Distributor Vacuum Advance Line Hook up, or left as is using the just the Manifold Vacuum. Check to see if there are any vacuum leaks on the Carb or at its Base. Were is the Distributors Front Vacuum Advance Line hooked up at, Manifold Vacuum? The Autolite 1100 "Drop A Load" Mods with great pictures are located here at this link. https://fordsix.com/threads/jimg-co...-ported-vacuum-sun-aug-21-2011-6-24-am.84689/

These are the Basic Stock 1968 Ford 200 Six Tune Up Specs for a C4 Auto Trans Mustang
Plugs BF 82 set at .034
Point Dwell Angle 38 Degrees
Base Timing for an Auto Trans is 12 Degrees BTDC
Fuel Pump Pressure is 4 1/2 PSI
Curb Idle for an Auto Trans is 550 RPM with the Trans in Drive With Parking Brake set and Wheels Blocked (or have a Friend Set in the Car with their Foot on the Brakes). For a Manual Trans the Curb Idle is set to 650 to 700 RPM with the Trans in Neutral with Brakes Set as above.

When I do these tune ups I found that doing them in this order was the quickest way to having a good Tune Up
1. Set the Spark Plug gap to the above spec first.
2. When installing a new set of Ignition Points the Basic Distributor Points Gap Setting is 0.027 (Rubbing Block on the high point of the Distributor Cam) Skip this step if the Points are not being changed.
3. Finally Set the Points to the above Dwell Angle Setting after the engine is Running. This is the very Best way to set your Points.
4. Set the Base Ignition Timing with a Timing Light.
5. Check the Carbs Choke is operating correctly the Choke Blade when the engine is warmed up good should be fully open with blade centered and pointing exactly straight up. Basic setting on choke Cover is 2 Rich, Fast Idle Setting is about 1200 to 1500 RPM With Choke Linkage on the High Point > Mark setting and engine Cold Choke Blade should be Closed.
6. Now with the engine warmed up good and with the choke is wide open, now set the Carbs Mixture Screw Setting to the Lean Best Idle. To do this first set the mixture screw so you have the highest Idle RPM or if you are using a Vacuum Gauge then set it to the Highest Vacuum Reading on your vacuum gauge. Now turn the Mixture Screw inward one 1/4 tuner this is now set to the lean best idle.
7. Last thing to do now is to set the Carbs Curb Idle RPM Spec.

I will also will repeat the last two (6 & 7) again just to verify them and see if the setting will change any more for the better. Good Luck
 
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