designing an adapter, thoughts please?
- Thread starter Asa
- Start date
Why wouldn't you use countersunk socket head bolts to fit the plate hard on the manifold log? That would give a less encumbered platform.
I can foresee an issue with using clamps as mooted - there's the chance of excess clamp tension cupping the plate and creating a vacuum leak.
One interesting side note is the alignment of your throttle spindles. On the 2V manifold I've been messing around with, the 5&6 runners especially, are grunged up near the final turn. This suggests to me they are getting overfuelled by the combination of accelerator pump use and throttle blade orientation.
A poster (or two) here ages ago opined that the throttle spindles should be parallel to the manifold bore in these applications, as it promoted the most even distribution of fuel. However, to do that I imagine requires you to clock the carbs 90° and fabricate some fancy adaptors.
I can foresee an issue with using clamps as mooted - there's the chance of excess clamp tension cupping the plate and creating a vacuum leak.
One interesting side note is the alignment of your throttle spindles. On the 2V manifold I've been messing around with, the 5&6 runners especially, are grunged up near the final turn. This suggests to me they are getting overfuelled by the combination of accelerator pump use and throttle blade orientation.
A poster (or two) here ages ago opined that the throttle spindles should be parallel to the manifold bore in these applications, as it promoted the most even distribution of fuel. However, to do that I imagine requires you to clock the carbs 90° and fabricate some fancy adaptors.
Evan, as Adam said use the countersunk bolts-socket head fasteners.
This is how I did mine.
Using 2 carbs would help fuel distribution, but unless you used 1 barrel carbs, you have too much venturi area for the engine.
I would keep your costs a minimum, since Mike is coming out with a superior cylinder head. I would do only whats necessary to mount a 2 barrel on an obsolete log head.
Your work will still help, but the new design head will be light years ahead of our current setups. William
This is how I did mine.
Using 2 carbs would help fuel distribution, but unless you used 1 barrel carbs, you have too much venturi area for the engine.
I would keep your costs a minimum, since Mike is coming out with a superior cylinder head. I would do only whats necessary to mount a 2 barrel on an obsolete log head.
Your work will still help, but the new design head will be light years ahead of our current setups. William
asa67_stang":1fsvg2ec said:
Yes, Evan, there is nothing wrong with your plan. As I said long ago, anyhting you do will be an improvement.
A bad plan, well excuted, is going to improve the air flow and power of the log head. It doesn't matter if its got issues, its going to improve performance, and can't be worse than the original.
A
Anonymous
Guest
Why go with 2 seperate adapters? I used a 12" one and it worked fine with 4 allen head countersunk mounting bolts. 1 on each end and the 2 original ones on the carb mounting flange. Forget the clamps...their not needed.
Use the permatex 2A sealant in combination with some good gasket material.
I would leave the section in between the throttle bores. I left mine in on my Holley 2 Bbl adapter asnd it seems to work fine for me.
This is a EO head and I had no problems milling it flat and I didnt have to add any metal to it.
Later,
Doug
Use the permatex 2A sealant in combination with some good gasket material.
I would leave the section in between the throttle bores. I left mine in on my Holley 2 Bbl adapter asnd it seems to work fine for me.
This is a EO head and I had no problems milling it flat and I didnt have to add any metal to it.
Later,
Doug
the only reason i want to do two seperate ones is because it should be cheaper
are you saying to design it so that there's a sort of recessed area for the original 1bbl mounting point?
didn't you also mill off the original mounting point? i'm trying to avoid as much machine shop work as i can
are you saying to design it so that there's a sort of recessed area for the original 1bbl mounting point?
didn't you also mill off the original mounting point? i'm trying to avoid as much machine shop work as i can
doug I only added metal to mine so I can mount a 5200 with no spacer plate at all. I too am using mine as a steeping stone.....get the turbo running with a little more umph and then once I have a little cash on hand I can drop the coin for mikes head or a alloy argie head (still waiting to see the numbers) figured I would slowly step up the turbo motor a little at a time for now
A
Anonymous
Guest
The cost should be the same.
I had it machined flat like this,
I'm looking to see if I have more pictures of how I did it
Later,
Doug
I had it machined flat like this,
I'm looking to see if I have more pictures of how I did it
Later,
Doug
michael_cini
Well-known member
you a funny man!
addo":3hklaivk said:
rust collector
Active member
If you want progressive 2 bbl´s, weber has the 32-36, and the same as a mirror image...Guess that would help with the linkage???
I don´t remember their model name (dgv/dfv?)
I don´t remember their model name (dgv/dfv?)
rust collector
Active member
I know, but can you get the 5200 as a mirror image, like the webers?
LEGODAPTER!!! 
Having problems with imageshack
This would work if you have enough flat area to bore the holes and have enough surface around the holes for the orings. The area sticking up above the orings would locate the adapter in the holes. It would need to be at least 1/2" possibly 3/4" thick to keep it from warping.
The bolts should be countersink instead of counterbored. I would be tempted to drill and tap six or eight 10x32 flat head screws around the perimiter of the orings but there probably isn't enough room for that.
IDEA COURTESY OF FrankBoss 8
Having problems with imageshack
This would work if you have enough flat area to bore the holes and have enough surface around the holes for the orings. The area sticking up above the orings would locate the adapter in the holes. It would need to be at least 1/2" possibly 3/4" thick to keep it from warping.
The bolts should be countersink instead of counterbored. I would be tempted to drill and tap six or eight 10x32 flat head screws around the perimiter of the orings but there probably isn't enough room for that.
IDEA COURTESY OF FrankBoss 8
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