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Anonymous
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Hi Guys, Hope these pictures come through, Is this the correct distributor for this carb the carb should be an 1100?
http://photos.yahoo.com/cfvpocius_2000
http://photos.yahoo.com/cfvpocius_2000
That is an 1100. Its been a while since I have looked at a Load O but if it dont have weights and springs under the plate that holds the points its a load o.
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Anonymous
Guest
Is the load o supposed to go with an 1100 carburetor? When I got this car it was a roller and everything was a basket case and I don't know if they go together, of course it runs and I have made chicken salad out of chicken sh.. as they say. I just think it could run a lot smoother than it does. It has a hesitation, surge at low speeds, and hard, hot, slow start. I've rebuilt the carb, I've lowered and raised the float level, I've also checked the vacuum advance on the distributor and that is all ok. Could it be something mechanical in the engine, I've rebuilt the engine and it doesn't burn any oil, and it is quiet.
Mercury Mike
Famous Member
Check your timing, and ditch your points and go with a pertronix. Problem solved. =) I was having th same problems as you, and my points were jumping and screwin' with my dwell. You can turn the posts that the springs are connected to to tighten the spring tension, they're suppose to be around 17 lbs of force or something like that if I remember correctly. =)
howdy back Fred and All:
The carb is an Autolite 1100 with a Spark Control Valve in place for a Load-O-Matic distributor. The distributor is not a Load-O-Matic. Either the carb or the distributor are not OEM.
Is this a '67 or a '68 engine? I could not tell from the photos. My guess is that you have a '67 carb and a '68 distributor. FoMoCO changed to a more typical distributor with both centrifugal and vacuum advance in '68.
Is this a standard trans or auto?
Was this a Calif Emmissions engine origianally?
On the carb, my guess is that you aren't getting enough of a accelerator pump shot on take off. I'm assuming that you cleaned and blew out all the internal channels on the rebuild. Next check the accelerator pump linkage. On the hot start you may have some choke adjustment problems or possibly some internal leaks that are causing a flooding-like hard starting problem.
If the points aren't new that's a good place to look for carb problems. Check your initial spark setting too. Start with 6 degrees with a standard trans and 12 with an auto. Verify the accuracy of the timming mark on the damper.
How about some more details on your rig. YOur chicken salad is lookin' cherry.
Good luck.
Adios, David
The carb is an Autolite 1100 with a Spark Control Valve in place for a Load-O-Matic distributor. The distributor is not a Load-O-Matic. Either the carb or the distributor are not OEM.
Is this a '67 or a '68 engine? I could not tell from the photos. My guess is that you have a '67 carb and a '68 distributor. FoMoCO changed to a more typical distributor with both centrifugal and vacuum advance in '68.
Is this a standard trans or auto?
Was this a Calif Emmissions engine origianally?
On the carb, my guess is that you aren't getting enough of a accelerator pump shot on take off. I'm assuming that you cleaned and blew out all the internal channels on the rebuild. Next check the accelerator pump linkage. On the hot start you may have some choke adjustment problems or possibly some internal leaks that are causing a flooding-like hard starting problem.
If the points aren't new that's a good place to look for carb problems. Check your initial spark setting too. Start with 6 degrees with a standard trans and 12 with an auto. Verify the accuracy of the timming mark on the damper.
How about some more details on your rig. YOur chicken salad is lookin' cherry.
Good luck.
Adios, David
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Anonymous
Guest
Hi,
The engine and cyl head have a code of C5DE which I believe are 65,
It is an automatic C4, I am going to advance auto today, the have a reman distributor for a 65/67 single diaphram, the distributor that came with the basket was a dual diaphram, there is no smog equipment whatsoever, I am guessing the carb is probably a 67, when I rebuilt the carb after cleaning I took a can of carb and choke cleaner and sprayed through all passages they seemed to be open then blew compressed air through them, I noticed that the carb has a hot water plate under it, I am going to put a valve in it to stop the flow in warm weather I realize in cool and cold weather it needs to be open to keep the venturi from icing, but I feel with the warm weather we have it is causing the carb to boil when shut down hot, what do you think of pretonix ign system? this has sure been a learning experience, lots of new cuss words learned, I think the guy I bought this from just cleaned out his garage and I was dumb enough to buy it, but... when all is said and done it was worth it.
The engine and cyl head have a code of C5DE which I believe are 65,
It is an automatic C4, I am going to advance auto today, the have a reman distributor for a 65/67 single diaphram, the distributor that came with the basket was a dual diaphram, there is no smog equipment whatsoever, I am guessing the carb is probably a 67, when I rebuilt the carb after cleaning I took a can of carb and choke cleaner and sprayed through all passages they seemed to be open then blew compressed air through them, I noticed that the carb has a hot water plate under it, I am going to put a valve in it to stop the flow in warm weather I realize in cool and cold weather it needs to be open to keep the venturi from icing, but I feel with the warm weather we have it is causing the carb to boil when shut down hot, what do you think of pretonix ign system? this has sure been a learning experience, lots of new cuss words learned, I think the guy I bought this from just cleaned out his garage and I was dumb enough to buy it, but... when all is said and done it was worth it.
If you are getting a new dizzy anyway why not just get a reman DS2? OR if you have the bucks and dont mind chebby looking parts the DUI? If current dizzy is compatible with the rest of your setup and in good shape and you dont like junk yarding for parts the petronix is the cheapest way to go but you start talking about replacing the dizzy anyway and you are on your way to the cost of the Durasparks. How are your wires and coil and such?
Howdy Back:
The '65-'67 distributor should be compatible with your stock 1100 carb with a SCV.
The other option is as TJ suggested, and upgrade your carb to a later and larger Autolite 1101. This carb along with the later distributor will give you a significant performance and economy increase. The 1101 from a '69 Mustang with a 250 engine is rated at 215 cfm as compared to an OEM '65 1100 at 185 cfm. The centrifugal advance feature of your current distributor is a plus over a LOM.
A Petronix Ignitor is a plus either way you go. I would caution you to get it running good before too many other adventures though. The '76 and later DuraSpark II system that TJ suggested is the best of the set and forget pointless systems. The new HEI system is cleaner in that it is all contained in the distributor- the module and coil are in it. The price is the only down-side.
My brother, Dennis, will be doing a side-by-side comparison of an early prototype HEI with a junkyard DS II, hopefully before the summer is out. He's vegging out at "The Lake" right now.
Where are you located? Elevation?
Adios, David
The '65-'67 distributor should be compatible with your stock 1100 carb with a SCV.
The other option is as TJ suggested, and upgrade your carb to a later and larger Autolite 1101. This carb along with the later distributor will give you a significant performance and economy increase. The 1101 from a '69 Mustang with a 250 engine is rated at 215 cfm as compared to an OEM '65 1100 at 185 cfm. The centrifugal advance feature of your current distributor is a plus over a LOM.
A Petronix Ignitor is a plus either way you go. I would caution you to get it running good before too many other adventures though. The '76 and later DuraSpark II system that TJ suggested is the best of the set and forget pointless systems. The new HEI system is cleaner in that it is all contained in the distributor- the module and coil are in it. The price is the only down-side.
My brother, Dennis, will be doing a side-by-side comparison of an early prototype HEI with a junkyard DS II, hopefully before the summer is out. He's vegging out at "The Lake" right now.
Where are you located? Elevation?
Adios, David
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Anonymous
Guest
Berea Ky elavation about 875 above sea level.
Thanks Fred
Thanks Fred
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Anonymous
Guest
Hello again guys,
I recieved another carburetor today, it does not have the spark control valve, the bore seems to be 1 3/8, it is identical to my old one execpt it does not have the spark valve, the dizzy I have is a single advance with no springs under the plate, is this a match or do I need to change the dizzy, also any idea what the carb is? I was told it is off an 69'
Thanks Fred
I recieved another carburetor today, it does not have the spark control valve, the bore seems to be 1 3/8, it is identical to my old one execpt it does not have the spark valve, the dizzy I have is a single advance with no springs under the plate, is this a match or do I need to change the dizzy, also any idea what the carb is? I was told it is off an 69'
Thanks Fred
Howdy Back Fred:
The new carb could be a '68 or '69 1100. They did not have a SCV, but did have a ported vacuum source for those years distributors. The down side is that they were downsized in the venturi inner diameter from 1.2 to 1.1. Cfm from 185 to 150. Performance will suffer.
This carb and your '69 distributor are a match in terms of carb to distributor vacuum signal.
Adios, David
The new carb could be a '68 or '69 1100. They did not have a SCV, but did have a ported vacuum source for those years distributors. The down side is that they were downsized in the venturi inner diameter from 1.2 to 1.1. Cfm from 185 to 150. Performance will suffer.
This carb and your '69 distributor are a match in terms of carb to distributor vacuum signal.
Adios, David
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