dSII hookup for 62 econo

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hello, I am pretty new to mechanical undertakings. I recieved a lot of help when I posted regarding my engine damage from detonation. Putting everything back together now,,, got a DSII from the junkyard. I have spent quite a bit of time studying the Sticky DS Conversion post, but I am having a bit of misunderstanding regarding the hookup....

It looks as though on the DSII, there is only one wire that needs power (a large white wire with blue dots)... my understanding from a haynes manual is this should be connected to the ignition via a ballast resistor (.8 to 1.6 ohms), which Sticky shows in his diagram as a pink wire (which is also pink on my 62 econo and includes a ballast resistor of 1.3 to 1.4 ohm)... on the Sticky's diagram is says "disconnect pink wire" am I thereby to understand the ignition module is to be run without a ballast resistor? It looks like the hot lead (red in diagram) just comes straight from the ignition...

Perhaps someone could sumarize the wires I need to connect that are critical, and what if anything needs to be upline (ballast resistors etc).... thanks..... what does a "ballast resistor" do anyway?on to the timing curve when I've got this...... thanks.....
 
The DS2 doesn't need a resistor. The points did so that the current wouldn't burn the points out prematurely.
 
As far as I understand none of the DS2's used a resistor.

I didnt use the ford module so I only know what I have read. If you took the harness that went between the module and the dizzy, that one also goes to the coil so you should be set on that end. The other connector on the module should have at least 3 wires in it (unless it grounds through the case) one of them is the 12V when 'ON/RUN', beware that some ignition switches will not have the 'ON/RUN' live while in the 'START' cranking position. The other terminal is 12V when in the 'START' cranking position. I read that this is not needed, it just retards the ignition for cranking but its usually not an issue on stock engines. I would ASSume that if you hook up the crank wire that it wont care if the ON is not live during cranking. In the 66(ish) mustangs and I would think other cars the resitsor wire is between the key and the firewall connector. The 4th wire from the solonoid (live when cranking) meets up with the other end of the resistor wire on the engine side of the connector and then went to the + side of the coil. Thats how it worked in the orignal config. Cranking it was live full voltage from the solonoid and when you let the key off to ON/RUN it was then powerd through the resistor.

On mine I used a relay on the voltage regulator but it is still hooked up through the resistor wire because I needed power from somewhere while starting. I did it this way because I had the parts laying around and I hate working under the dash, its as bad as modern cars. I can pull the fuse from my relay and it then runs off the resitor wire. I have not tried to drive it that way but there is no change in the idle quality between the two sources.
 
unfortunately, I don't have a stock ignition switch anymore. I can see this is going to take some playing around...

On MustangSteve's diagram, it looks like (for the module connects) the white wire goes to the S terminal on the starter relay, and the red is connected to the coil red wire - both of which connect to the 12v from the "run" position on the ignition switch. It must ground through the mounting bolts, because there's no other wire to connect (there is the green ground that goes to the coil...).... thanks... David
 
I dont think you want both the red and white powred all the time, the way I understand it that would give you a 10* retard. Red may be all the time but the white (if you even use it) is only on durning cranking. Someone with a factory DS2 will have to check and see if both red and white are on during cranking or if its only white on crank and red on run. If I had one I would go look but I dont.
 
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