dum question
- Thread starter Stang67
- Start date
You lost me, how is the pink wire stuck in a socket? On my car there it just presses onto the coil and the other end is on a post on the back of the ignition switch.
FWIW, when I ran my ignition (DII) I used 12v directly from the battery through a 20amp fuse to a 25amp relay. Then I used the original 'pink' wire as the trigger to send a full 12v to the coil and ignition module.
-ron
FWIW, when I ran my ignition (DII) I used 12v directly from the battery through a 20amp fuse to a 25amp relay. Then I used the original 'pink' wire as the trigger to send a full 12v to the coil and ignition module.
-ron
Stang67
Well-known member
sorry for the confusion electrical work is not my strong point beaf with me. ok can i just unplug the pink wire from the ignition switch and then just run the dui 12 gage wire to the ignition switch and call it a day. 1 more thing the pink wire has another wire connected to if i unplug the pink wire from ignition switch will it mess anything up
Stang67
Well-known member
sorry for the confusion electrical work is not my strong point beaf with me. ok can i just unplug the pink wire from the ignition switch and then just run the dui 12 gage wire to the ignition switch and call it a day. 1 more thing the pink wire has another wire connected to if i unplug the pink wire from ignition switch will it mess anything up
Axle Roads
Well-known member
That one wire goes to the starter solenoid "I" terminal. It supplies a full 12 volts to a stock coil which would otherwise only see 8 volts. You could leave it out if your feeling lazy. I would splice it in just to keep things looking stock; it would also help you if you ever want to run points again.
Axle Roads
Well-known member
"I" terminal wire's brown.
If you want to see a cool smoke show try splicing the new 12 gage wire to 6 inches of pink wire. Otherwise cut it off as short as you can and insulate it. Look for the green red wire. It's only 18 gage but that's going to be your easiest source of 12V switched power. Don't bypass it or your loose your brake light and external regulator. Tap into it the best you can. Take your time and do it right.
Personally I took the relay rout like Stang67. One could make an argument for both routs. The method described above may actually be slightly more reliable since your not depending on a relay, which like any electronic device do occasionally fail.
If you want to see a cool smoke show try splicing the new 12 gage wire to 6 inches of pink wire. Otherwise cut it off as short as you can and insulate it. Look for the green red wire. It's only 18 gage but that's going to be your easiest source of 12V switched power. Don't bypass it or your loose your brake light and external regulator. Tap into it the best you can. Take your time and do it right.
Personally I took the relay rout like Stang67. One could make an argument for both routs. The method described above may actually be slightly more reliable since your not depending on a relay, which like any electronic device do occasionally fail.
Stang67
Well-known member
Here is what I was talking about guys I can`t seem to get the pink wire out the socket so my quuestion is can I just cut it and leave it be here is a link to what am talking about.
http://s222.photobucket.com/albums/dd15 ... 91619a.jpg
http://s222.photobucket.com/albums/dd15 ... 91619a.jpg
Axle Roads
Well-known member
OIC. Yes, but you would than have to insulate it with some electrical tape or crimp on a dead end terminal or if you happen to have an insulated female spade terminal, that might be good enough.
You can open the back. I've done it on mine a few times this winter. I see that you have already removed the nut. That is the first step. The trick is to be brave. At the moment the back is about to come off or on, it feel like it's going to break. It hasn't for me, but I was very patient. (I don't know how brittle yours is compared to mine so I can't be held responsible it it breaks. It helps to have a jewelry screw driver or something similarly small to pry it open. All you have to do is get one of those black ridges out of it's slot and the whole back comes off. To close it, I've used either a jewelery screwdriver or a dull razer blade to slip the backing back into the slot. Hold something similarly flat up to the slit and push down on the backing until it's at the same level of the slit. The backing will bow in the middle. Remove the flat razer blade or screwdriver and hope the backing springs back into the slot. I think I had to try it a few time to get the knack of it. Now I know how to do it I could have it on and off in about two minutes.
What did you decide to do with your brown wire. If you leave it in don't forget to protect the other side of the pink wire with insulation described above or better.
You can open the back. I've done it on mine a few times this winter. I see that you have already removed the nut. That is the first step. The trick is to be brave. At the moment the back is about to come off or on, it feel like it's going to break. It hasn't for me, but I was very patient. (I don't know how brittle yours is compared to mine so I can't be held responsible it it breaks. It helps to have a jewelry screw driver or something similarly small to pry it open. All you have to do is get one of those black ridges out of it's slot and the whole back comes off. To close it, I've used either a jewelery screwdriver or a dull razer blade to slip the backing back into the slot. Hold something similarly flat up to the slit and push down on the backing until it's at the same level of the slit. The backing will bow in the middle. Remove the flat razer blade or screwdriver and hope the backing springs back into the slot. I think I had to try it a few time to get the knack of it. Now I know how to do it I could have it on and off in about two minutes.
What did you decide to do with your brown wire. If you leave it in don't forget to protect the other side of the pink wire with insulation described above or better.
Axle Roads
Well-known member
Once you get the backing off, grip the whole switch with both hands and give it a tug, rocking it back and forth a little. Those female terminals will separate from the male terminals. To remove the female clips from the housing your going to have to insert a paper clip shaped tool, like a jewelery screwdriver or awl to bend the little spring inside. Read Mike Rowand's instructions on removing a packeted 56 connector.
You might have to bend the spring back to shape to when putting back together.
You might have to bend the spring back to shape to when putting back together.
Stang67
Well-known member
Which brown wire are u talking about so. So I have 2 ways of doing this I can just cut the pink wire and insulation both side or I can remove the female plug from the back ignition switch right thanks guys tomorrow I will finally install the dui dizzy and see what difference it makesAxle Roads":2ns6veer said:
Axle Roads
Well-known member
Right. If you have clean Packard 56 type female terminals, you can easily upgrade your switch to 12 or 14 gage wire. They are not commonly carried in automotive stores today. I once shopped around for them on ebay. I found the best price from this guy, RedbeardsTagsandBags. I haven't yet bought anything from him so I can't speak about his business practices. If your like me you wont want to wait a week for the part to come in the mail so your choices are. Use a regular uninsulated female spade terminal, without a clip. These ware the type that come out if you yank on them. They don't clip in and stay. Since the switch is a theft determent device you will want to take this into consideration. You would also have to bend a regular the female clip sideways to make it fit, and place the black backing back. This is the reason I didn't use a new clip. I was afraid bending the clip would weaken a crimp connection, perhaps damage a brittle solder connection, or otherwise cause unseen micro fractures. Better explained on NASA's website. If you go this route. May I suggest, bending, than crimping than soldering.
I looked closely at the female terminal. It didn't look corroded. (I was going to use a relay anyway) So I reused it. IIR, I just cut the pink wire back as far as possible. You wont need much insulation if it doesn't stick out of the switch housing.
The brown wire I thought you were concerned about is on the other side of the pink wire behind the diver-side kick-pannel.
I hope this helps. Post some more pics of your finished work.
I looked closely at the female terminal. It didn't look corroded. (I was going to use a relay anyway) So I reused it. IIR, I just cut the pink wire back as far as possible. You wont need much insulation if it doesn't stick out of the switch housing.
The brown wire I thought you were concerned about is on the other side of the pink wire behind the diver-side kick-pannel.
I hope this helps. Post some more pics of your finished work.
Gene Fiore
Famous Member
Should have just sprung for the live wires from Classicinlines...Stang67":32p95rhg said:
