Duraspark II conversion

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Hello all,

I have been reading all the threads about updating my ignition from points and have come to the conclusion that the Duraspark II is the way to go. What is all involved with this upgrade? Is there a site that has detailed instructions? I have not worked on cars in a very long time and just bought a 65 coupe with a 200.

Thanks
 
addo, you mean you left a carb with an SCV (functioning) on a duraspark set up but simply switched the vac. pick up from the manifold - and that's do-able??

I was under the impression i really had to either disable the scv or go to a different carb altogether!

please clarify for me as this could be very helpful to my situation.....
 
Look at the sticky at the top of the forum. I decided to get all new parts from parts america instead of going the junkyard route (there are no good yards around DC)
 
It's definately the way to go. My car starts easier and runs and idles way smoother then it ever did with points.

You can see the installation I did on my '74 Maverick Grabber here: http://5hp.hill.cc/maverick/D2

That car is wrecked now, but I have moved the engine and everything over to a '72 Maverick I picked up cheap with no engine or trans and it is still running great in the '72. I am running a TFI coil for a 1989 F350 with a 460.

The installation is very simple. You just match the orange wire on the module to the orange wire on the distributor, the purple wire to the purple wire and the black wire to the black wire. The green wire goes to the negative side of the coil. You run a switched 12 Volt wire to the coil and to the red wire on the module, and your ready to roll.

I have put over 12,000 miles on this setup with no problems what so ever.
 
Marvista 66: I screwed a plastic "tree" into the NPT threaded hole in the log, which previously had a pipe plug in it. Closed un-needed branches of this tree with a soldering iron and pliers (heat and crimp).

The remaining outlet was thus hooked to the distributor, providing manifold vacuum. The threaded port on the carby, where the steel vac line used to go, was sealed with a splodge of Silastic and a 5¢ coin. :lol:

One of the harder parts was stopping this coin from slipping while the silicone set. (In other words, the entire job was pretty cruisy.)

Cheers, Adam.
 
I have recently put all new Dura spark stuff in my "62 (78 200 motor) and was pleasently surprised at the cost of all new parts.
Distr.--$45.00
Ign. box--$16
Cap and button--i don't recall but no more than any other
Dizzy to box harness--this had to come from the junkyard--$5
Of course i also paid some bucks for a hi output coil and good wires but this is an optional expense either way.
so if you have the large dizzy hole it is actually cheaper than the pertronix kit.
As to the vac advance stuff I am useing an autolite 2bbl so it has the ported vac line. Manifold vacumn seems to me to work backwards for an advance source as you have the highest vac at idle and when you floor it vac goes to zero and thus would operate the adv. mech backwards. I would suspect that in this direction the centrifical adv is doing all the work. BUT if it works it works. I would be more inclined to try it on the SCV port as this increases vac with throttle opening. This is pretty much the same way a ported source works anyways. Manifold vac is used to retard the spark on dual vac dizzy's.
 
64falcon200":1vjntwuc said:
Look at the sticky at the top of the forum. I decided to get all new parts from parts america instead of going the junkyard route (there are no good yards around DC)
au contraire!

PM me sometime, we really should get up together sometime, i'll point you towards some of the better places i've found
 
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