about $500I wish I could get your setup. There are no aluminum heads or crossflow heads available here in the states. I wonder how much it would cost to ship one to me
The AU VCT is the pick of them, but it presents a problem with alloy sump, if you have to mod it. Cox Custom Im sure could deal with that. All the earlier engines had the good old pressed steel sump, easier to modify. The AU six has the larger main journals and cross bolted main caps, it still has the oil pump driven by the jack shaft, and a hole where a dizzy could go. Again tough as old boots, ordinary SOHC and dirt cheap, VCT a little dearer, not not usually more than $500. Wreckers are chucking them out now days as they think there too old, they last forever so nobody buys them.
What's your web address? And do you know if that will fit the American 3.3l? Or will I need to have work done on the block?
I found a website that can help you determine your opinion on the electric turbo's. Checkout electrifiedboost.com
Here's what needs to be done to install an Australian crossflow head on a US 200:
The AU bottom end is similar to the later Barra. The alloy rear sump oil pan from a Barra will fit an AU.
They are running the supercharger DC motor in the race car at 48 volts and 680 amps which is 44 hp
I took my Web Page down for maintenance. Keep an eye on the forum, I will post it under my vendor section.
Back to a previous subject. If I were to build a centrifugal supercharger, wouldn't it be possible to build it for operation a low rpms through the use of a smaller pulley and more agressive impeller blades? Awhile back, I built a functioning model of a centrifugal water pump. The only thing powering it was an electromagnetic motor that ran on 6 AAs and turned at about 350 rpm with 40 mNm. It put out about the same water-pressure as a faucet opened about halfway. The impeller wasn't more that 3" across and it had straight, 90° blades. I'm no expert but that seems like a great deal of pressure all things considered.
If you run a larger centrifugal supercharger, you can run it closer to the surge zone (left hand side of the compressor map) and cap the boost level at higher rpm by blowing off the excess boost with a BOV or Wastegate
While the principal of centrifugal compression is the same (velocity energy changed to pressure energy) water is about 800 times denser than air. Heaps of research and design has gone into centrifugal compressors probably over a century of work by the likes of Rollsroyce, I doubt you could improve upon their work at home. The main problem is that the PR goes up with the square of the speed, so your PR curve is more like a parabola which does not suit an IC engine for street use. The succesfull centrifugal compressors were applied to engines which did not run over a wide range of RPMs and loads, ie a Rollsroyce merlin, and in that case it had a two stage two speed supercharger, and they used a draw through setup the had the cooling effect of vapourisation. If you read A Graham Bells work "forced induction" he gives some more detail with examples. Only the well integrated turbocharged engines can operate really well for normal road use. I have an equinox 1.5 turbo, you barely know its turbocharged, and the fuel economy is great. With the positive displacement compressors you can forget about all the problems of a centrifugal compressor, get what feels like a doubling of engine capacity to drive. Ive had the turbo, hot cams big carbies etc etc, but now i have a blower, I know what I prefer.
Terribly wasteful, centrifugal compressors are well suited to engines that run at more constant RPM and loads, Rollsroyce dart turboprop, Allison 250 etc etc, there operating rpm hardly changes over the output, and they still need features like blowoff valves, and variable guide vanes.
I haven’t seen screws big enough at the hardware store to use as a high volume compressor. LOL
Overdriving and clipping has been used on the street for some time. It provides a power band width close to a turbocharger
That may be the route I go for now. I've heard that you can get them pretty cheap.
This is probably what I'll end up doing. It will be awhile because I am still getting my pop-up carport built. If I was going to make one from scratch, I was going to work on it in the mean time. But if I'm going to buy one, I'll have to wait to install it.Yeah, you're not doing something that requires splitting hairs here. Find a way to get boost into it, and see where it gets you. It's like learning to drive, and you don't know what car or truck you will like best until you've had a chance to drive some. The first time you do boost is a lot like a first time EFI; you have to get something on there as easily and quickly as you can, so you have your 'Aha!' moments and a benchmark of what it really does and how you would do it differently with your new knowledge. Then with that enthusiasm tweak parts of it, enjoy it as-is, or do it again.
