Engine won't stop!!

[falcon fanatic]

It's an improvement over when my engine wouldn't start (bad coil), but now I can even remove the key and it still runs. I have the original coil wire triggering a realy that feeds a full 12v to the coil. worked fine for a while, but now it won't turn off. Funny thing is, when the engine is not running, the switch activates and deactivates the relay just fine, but once the engine is running, the switch no longer deactivates the relay. I have to disconnect the wire (original coil wire) to make it stop. I realize this wire is only 6v, but like I said, it seems to trigger the relay just fine. Any suggestions?

 

[Anonymous]

You don't need a relay to send 12v to the coil. A relay is used to activate electrical devices that have large electrical draw. (Example Starter Relay Ignition activates relay, relay activates starter)The relay is made to handle the electrical load that a conventional switch would not. Run a wire from the ignition switch to the coil (12v) and remove the 6v wire, and all the relay related stuff. It will work fine. I am assuming that you have either a DS2 or Pertronix, otherwise you would not need 12v to the coil.

Bill

 

[Anonymous]

It almost sounds to me as if the relay is getting a secondary source of power when the engine is on causing the solenoid inside the relay to remain energized when the engine is running.

I would begin by checking the wiring to the relay.

If nothing else, post pics of the relay so that we can see how you have it wired. Maybe we can help that way.

Keep us posted.

Thanks.

Kurt
Bloomington, IL

 

[falcon fanatic]

The relay is actually part of a fuse block manufactured by painless. That particular circuit is actually powering both an electric fuel pump and the coil. I suspect the best thing would be to power the coil from the ignition switch, bypassing the resistor as you suggest, and also paralleling off of that to trigger the relay to power my other devices (fuel pump, etc.) That would be simpler and would remove the relay from the ignition setup. The theory about a secondary power source to the relay is a good one, but I'm pretty sure I'm clear on that account. I was thinking that perhaps something was shorting within the ignition switch? Seems unlikely. The funny thing is that when I kill the ignition the gen light comes on the dash, as if the ignition where really off, but all of the accessories (dash lights, radio) continue to operate.

 

[Anonymous]

I am somewhat familiar with the Painless products, and I do belive that the switched portion of your Painless fuse block needs a switched source. Where did you get that switched source? That may be your problem. The only useable switched source in your car would be the ign switch. So, if you wanted to use the relay set up, run the ign source to your Painless, and then run that one thru the relay to your coil, and eliminate the 6v wire altogether. Kurt may be correct about the dual power source. That all depends on how you connected up the Painless product. If you in fact have a wire from the ign switch, and a wire from the painless you do have a dual power source.

My suggestion:
Return the ignition back to stock (or replace with 12v wire from ign switch)
Power fuel pump etc thru switched relay from Painless fuse block

Keep us updated.
Good Luck!
Bill

 

[61Futura]

Power the electronic ignition module with the same relay switched power and not the key switched power. You must be getting voltage thru your coil, into the electronic ignition module from the coil firing wire, and out of the modules ignition +12v lead into the cars wiring with enough voltage left to keep the relay closed. At least that is the only explanation I can come up with.

Steve

 

[falcon fanatic]

I think 61 Futura was correct. Here is my final solution.

In the original config, the pink wire branches at the firewall into brown wire feeding 6v to the starter relay and red-green wire feeding 6v to the coil.

In a typical duraspark setup, brown feeds 6v to the red wire of the duraspark (which then loops back to I terminal of starter relay), red-green stays on coil.

In my new setup, I disconnect pink resistor just after the ignition switch thus killing brown and red-green. Instead I use the stock bullet connector coming off of ignition (also red-green) to route a wire straight to the coil. From there I send a branch to the red wire of the duraspark, and another to trigger the Painless relay. Works great and reduces the wiring mess by several feet. I just hope that 12v won't burn out my duraspark Anybody know?

Was able to figure that out and install a new alarm system last night. I was busy...

 

[Anonymous]

I know this is simple... But have you replaced the solenoid? That is your source. I had the problem of not being able to kill the engine and it was that the solenoid had bit the dust, after replacement, no problems! Plus, it's really easy (about 2 minutes to replace) and it will run you about $6 at advanced

 

[falcon fanatic]

Yeah, I tried that. happen to have a spare solenoid, but it wasn't the problem. I never bothered to find out what the problem was because I got it running right with my alternative wiring configuration.