EOBE head

bmbm40

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I have a 200 with a EOBE head (flat top log) and the Falcon manual description is "undesirable smog fitting head". This engine ran great when I had it in the Bronco and I am considering it for some work like direct mount, porting, 3 angle valve etc. It is buried in the corner of the garage and I have not had a good look at it for a couple of years but cannot remember any smog stuff. I do not remember much about the donor vehicle but it was a Nevada car so could it have been a Federal or 49 state car instead of CA and therefore minimal smog? What should I look for when I dig it out to determine the level of smog stuff?
The 250 in my Bronco now is a C9DE flat top log.
Was interested in the increase from 1240cc to 1345cc manifold volume, only about a 9 % increase but also the 1.75" intake valves a consideration.
Thanks
 
Thanks BetsyBabe64-good information.

Should have asked in first post...So is the EOBE head worth the time and money or should I sell the running engine and look for a 78-80 head?
Like to hear from modified EOBE owners.
How much do the 78-80 heads generally go for in stock condition?
 
Howdy Bmbm40 and all:

IIRC the only differences on most EO heads is an extra port on the side of the log, below the carb mount. It is easy to block off. An EO head may or may not have a tap on the front end of the log for a Vacuum sensor. again, easily plugged. The EO head has several advantages over an C9 casting. In addition to the larger intake valves and increased volume, you will have hardened valve seats under both intake and exhaust valves. There were several engineering changes to the EO casting, so check the suffix after the EODE-6090-. Usually two capital letters.

The rest of the emmissions afterthoughts from FoMoCo were on the exhaust manifold. The taps and bungs are all screw in, so easy to plug, but the inside is still irregular as a result. Your best solution is to use the manifold that is on your C9 head now or a header.

The EO head is a good choice for a builder. The only '80 model year head we've seen that causes caution is the D8BE with a GE suffix. It was cast with extra bungs on each intake port for an air pump EPA system. I believe these were Calif/Em equiped engines only. The bungs can be plugged, but they leave an unhelpful lump on the inside of the port.

So check the casting code suffix before you decide, and then go for it.

Adios, David
 
yeah i was going to sell my head and get an aluminum one but now i'm thinking otherwise. Maybe if i had a i-250, i'd bore it out and get the CI head and run a large 4 barrel carb with a super charger.

Since we have the same engine, maybe you're interested in what i want to do with mine ?

i want to run the 3 carb kit, a nice CI header with the Arvinode mufflers, bore the engine out, put a nice cam in, better valve train etc. flame thrower and ignitor system, index the plugs, do the carter super fuel pump mod, hook up a nice aluminum radiator and a manual transmission with a ratchet shifter.
 
Yes it is an 80 head, my mistake, I meant to type 77-79 head.
Thanks to all for the replies and I will check the suffix for "GE", appreciate that David. In the Falcon Manual the notes that state "undesirable smog fitting head" actually refer to the head with the GE suffix. I probably needed to wear my glasses.
BetsyBabe those sound like good plans for a high performance engine. For my Bronco a slight increase in torque mostly on the bottom end is my goal. The stock 250 is more than adequate, a big improvement over the 200, but a little more is always good.
 
Howdy Bmbm40:

I know it's been a while and you've probably moved on, but I have to add in your quest for "but a little more is always good", on the bottom end. If you do do the E0 head be sure to mill it at least .075". That will compensate for the thicker head gasket you'll use and raise the CR to the 9:1 range. You'll appreciate that at your elevation and at the lower end of the rpm range.

Getting at least a three angle valve job and back cutting the intake valves while you're having the head done will also help the bottom end.

Keep us posted on your progress.

Adios, David
 
David thanks for your further input. I am inexperienced with performance mods and appreciate any help.
Have not moved on will be on this for awhile. Doing a resto/mod on my 66 Bronco and everything takes longer than expected.
The three angle valve job and back cutting, some port and polish, 2v conversion with a 9.1 is my goal.
Have wondered if the 1.5' exhaust valves are necessary especially since the plan was to not use a header. I doubt that this 250 gets close too 4500 rpms often was my probably flawed reasoning. Any input on this is appreciated.
I am going to put a tach in my Bronco to see what my rpm range usually is.
David
 
Howdy back David:

No, a the 1.5" exhaust valves are not necessary but- at the very least open up the stock manifold 2" outlet to the full 2" and use a 2" exhaust to the outlet. All of your other plans sound right on. What year block is your 250? Is the short block stock?

Adios, David
 
Hello David
I measured the pipe and it is 2" from manifold to tailpipe original from factory. Stil has original muffler with 'Maremont' stamped on it. The manifold casting # is C5UE-9430-A. I changed from a 170 to 200 about 17 years ago and apparently kept the original manifold. Hard to remember back that far. I have nothing against headers just fitting problems that I have heard about with 250 engines and Broncos. I read that long tube headers are better for low end torque and that is where the torque should be for my application. My block is from a 70 Mustang and stock. The owner of the Mustang supposedly had a valve job done and then sold to another guy who then sold to me so it is probably down on compression slightly which I believe was about 9 to 1 stock.
Thanks
David
 
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