Exhaust Manifold Question

[Anonymous]

I was wondering how difficult it is to replace the exhaust manifold on a 1966 Mustang. The one on now is cracked in one place and leaking in another. It is something I have never messed with before and wonder what my best options might be. Thanks for any suggestions.

Richard

 

[gtm1086]

Well changing the manifold itself is no big deal. Getting the bolts out can be another matter. If they have been in there since day one you will probably end up breaking a few. If that happens a easy manifold job turns into a bit of work. Sometimes you can get in and drill out the broken bolt. Other times it may be easier to remove the cylinder head and have a machine shop knock them out for you. The only way you will find out is to jump in and see what happens. Replacing with another manifold is one way for you to go. The other is to install a header. check out fordsixparts.com

 

[CZLN6]

Howdy Richard:

What GTM said is right on!

AND you should make this repair a priority for satety sake. Leaks of CO2 are dangerous to your health and a hot leak could spark of a fire from excess gas in the vicinity.

There is a risk of breaking bolts and making it a big job, but it is worth it to your health and safety. And it will be a good excuse to do a performance valve job.

Adios, David

 

[CobraSix]

Richard,

I'll 3rd the previous two opinions. I would invest in a good 1/2" drive socket set with various extension. Some of the bolts are royal pains to get to.

If they've been on a while, Good luck.

Slade

 

[Anonymous]

Don't have much to add, everyone is right on. You do need to get it done, but... Good luck! If they are original bolts (which I would assume they are) they WILL break - then you're looking at a lot of LONG work (I just did mine and broke 2 - me and one other guy had 6 hours on the bolts alone)

 

[Anonymous]

I am fairly certain they are the original bolts, so I guess I am in for the long haul once I get to doing it. I assume they are going to break--I just am not certain if my limited experience with such things is enough to try it. Oh well, I can always learn.

Richard

 

[Anonymous]

How much harder would it be to change the manifold with the engine still in the car? Or is this the best way to do it anyway?

Richard

 

[barishiman]

You can change the manifold in the car, it all depends though. If you have factory A/C, you have to get that out of the way. That was my problem, I had to take it out before I took the manifold off.

I sprayed some aircraft anti-corrosion stuff, that I acquired from my dad who works with the Air Force Corrosion program, on the manifold bolts. OMG it worked amazingly well!!! Anyways, you can get some at any parts store, though not aircraft grade. I usually coat the bolts and let them sit a day so the liquid can move its way down the bolt. After a day, take your socket set and go at it, just don't break any bolts, but if you do no biggie, just more money out of your pocket!

After you get the manifold off, check all your bolts. I usually re-thread my bolts and the bolt shaft. It does wonders putting the manifold back on.


Andrew

 

[mjpchief]

When you finally get the old bolts out and are ready to go back together with the new manifold and bolts, be sure and use some anti-sieze on the new bolts. This will make it easier the next time you have to pull the manifold.

 

[Anonymous]

How much harder would it be to change the manifold with the engine still in the car? Or is this the best way to do it anyway?

Oh yeah, there is no reason to pull the engine, just do it with the engine in the car. Also, as mentioned. Rethread and antisieze coat the bolts before you put them back on, or get some new bolts (easier to put back together, much easier for next time you have to pull it, and safer/more reliable).

 

[Anonymous]

I have cracks in mine as well, and the manifold is warped to boot. Would the manifold from an '83 250 fit? What issues if any would there be in swapping this one?

 

[Anonymous]

With the engine cold. Remove the old manifold. Clean the sealing surface. Tap out the bolt holes. Fabricate two or four, 4" long all-thread studs to be used as guides. Install guides. Install gasket. Slide manifold up into postion. Install nuts on guides to hold manifold. Apply a anti seeze lubrication on your remaining bolts and install. Remove guide bolts and replace with lubed manifold bolts. Use the correct torque sequence when tightening bolts. After the engine has been running and is at operating temp.. Shut off engine and retorqe bolts. Every now and then go back and recheck your torque, sometimes they get alittle loose. Good luck..ZZ