exhaust manifold vs. header--is there a difference?

  • Thread starter Thread starter Anonymous
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From my understanding you may have a very free flowing exhaust pipe system....
But with a stock head and manifold, you have a very constrictive exhaust system... It all matters what comes first...and last really. You try to maximise flow while also making sure that there is enough back pressure for things to run correctly.

You should find a pretty big jump in just putting on headers. Inliner and I are going to perform a self done porting soon and we should find out how that goes.
 
The DynoMax is available at most muffler shops and parts stores. Part number 17739. Fits into the car in the same location as the stock muffler. Very easy install.

I am a fan of the 5200. It has plenty of flow and is progressive so you retain good bottom end. Use the Clifford adapter. Quality part, good flow, no hood clearance issues (www.netrix.net/fordfan/Falcon/HW%20Conversion.html). You can purchase an adapter to mount a stock Holley 2100 / 2300 air cleaner from Redline Weber.

Ignitor II and Flamethrower2 installed in a 68 - 73 dual advance dizzy will work with any carb you like. You can set up this dizzy as MECHANICAL ONLY advance easily. Eliminating the vac system will improve timing control and stability.

When you said you had a free flow exhaust I assumed you had a header with port divider. You will get improvement in performance with each of the three primary bolt on steps (carb, ignition, header), but together they are good for 25% - 30% increase in rear wheel HP. Conversly, carb without header, or header without carb (ignition is a must either way), will not produce 1/2 of this amount.

Good luck with you project
 
does having the battery in the trunk make any difference? i know that the BOSS 429 back in the late 60's had the battery in the trunk, so it would have less weight on the nose of the car, and it would improve stability. was that actually true? how much can a battery weigh? is it enough to make that much difference? also, is it true that the front end of the mustang with a 200 I-6 would rise a bit when it was floored from a dead stop? i read that in one of my mustang books, im hoping its true. if it is, then it would make my friend and his camaro SS a tad jealous. MWHAHAHAHA. any questions? post a reply
 
i've got my front end to rise, i think i might have even got it off the ground, but that was when the motor mount broke and the motor came flying up and the fan chopped my radiator hose and made some nice scrapes on the underside of the hood
 
dude that sucks for you man, im hoping my car will run forever. im designing to to do that as well MWHAHA. i have made it so my car will never overheat, and im still planning what else i can do. on another note, i have made my mustang STEAL-PROOF! thats right, an old car thats steal proof. if you want more details, post a reply. laterz
 
Nothing is totaly steal proof. all you can do is slow them down. I've a friend that used to work as a auto reposeser, Remember wreckers and roll backs.
 
well 3pennyford, the roll back and hitching it and taking off are obvious ways to steal, but in what you said, it just slows the carjackers down. so my car would slow down the carjacker down so much, he/she wouldnt even bother with it. if any of yall out there wanna know what ive done to my car, just post a reply asking. laterz
 
So cutomustang....

It's steal proof, what did you do? Make a switch under the carpet, put a battery switch on, get a plug or any other numerous project that just slow people down. If someone really wants your car, which they don't cause its a 6, they will just wait for you to get in and then take it from you once its started. I know you live in Houston and aren't oblivious to this.

Also, your mustang will run for a long time. But, you will always have problems. Remember, its a 36 year old car with 36 year old parts. Even if you did do a full restoration, your new parts have 36 year old technology behind them. People bought these cars and had problems with them all the time. I absolutely love my Mustang and the problems that I get with it. Eventually, the big problems like overheating will be solved, but little problems like little oil leaks, o-rings, u-joints, tires, brakes, all the little things will never go away.

As for lifting up off the ground, yes. Floor the mustang and the front end comes up. So does my friend's ranger. If you mean pull the front wheels of the ground, then I believe you are interpreting something wrong. An aluminum block 6.7 liter Firebird has a hard time pulling the wheels up off the ground, and I think thats with around 650 hp.

Jason
 
TxAgs66, it is steal proof (if you dont count hitching the car and driving away). first off, you know how you can take a coat hanger and unlock the door from the outside? i put on locks that are straight with no ridges on them, so you cant hook something on them and pull them up. that will stop someone for a little while. also, im putting a padlock on the shifter, so when im not in the car, and if someone got in, they couldnt move the car from park, so the couldnt get anywhere. plus, the hook that the chain will be attached to will be hidden under the A/C unit, so its hidden. then the battery in the trunk will confuse any robber, maybe ill put a kill switch on it (i heard those help out some). then of course an alarm system, standard fare, maybe ill go with a pretty high tech one. all this stuff combined should equal NO STEALING! MWHAHAHA. any questions? post a reply. laterz
 
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