Exhaust Port Divider again

PLP6400

Well-known member
My exhaust port divider came loose and was ratteling to the point where it was no longer enjoyable to drive the vehicle. I had used POR 15 high temp epoxy to set it in place. It held it in place for about 4,000 miles. Last week I removed it and I don't have any numbers to prove the horse power loss, if any. But I have run a tank of gas through it, about 350 miles of normal driving on the same roads I normally do, and the gas milelage is the same. Also seat of the pants tells me there is no power loss.
 
its probably worth about 2% power , but may also help smooth out the firing impulses and even out the plug readings( make the jetting more evenly appropriate for all cylinders. before and after readings using applicable equipment would show the improvements.

no matter what method you use, from welding to epoxies, it is also a good idea to mechanically stake the divider. one method is to use a tap drill for a 10-32 screw and drill about 1/2" deep into the interface between the divider and the head. the best place is dead center at the bottom of the divider rib. drill so half the drill is in the divider and half is in the head.
then ease your 10-32 tap in to about a 3/8 depth, being careful not to break the tap. then install a 1/2 long 10-32 set screw. this is best done prior to welding or while the epoxy is still pliable. this will actually wedge the divider in place. you can add a couple more stakes at the sides of the divider for more security. often the welds also crack loose due to thermal cracks.

make sure you arent running lean or you will fry any epoxy bonding agent you use.
frankie
 
Dude, you are 100% happy with the Cotronics stuff i take it. I was just thinking last night on how to install my port divider (when i get it). They have a $35 min order, so I guess I'll have to epoxy some other stuff together too! :roll:
 
I used contronics with good success. When I ordered it, there was no minimum. I was about to order $12 Worth.

Slade
 
I got almost a full tube of it laying around the garage from when I did my port divider...

Anyone interested??? PM me...not out to turn a profit.
 
Yes, I am very happy with it. I have had no problems at all. I plan to do much more driving soon so we will see how it holds up.
 
It can be welded, but welding cast iron is a pain. To do it right you have to preheat the head. The important thing is that it devides the ehaust ports and doesn't rattle.
 
The factory info that came with my Hooker Super-Comps installation kit included header bolts, gaskets and the port divider. Hooker had a detailed installation guide and explained the best way to install it was to grind it carefully to match your engine and be sure to leave a few thousandths projecting past the block for the headers to lock it in with an interference fit.

PORTDIVIDER3WEB.jpg


PORTDIVIDER1WEB.jpg
 
That's what I did. My thick header gasket and hi-temp RTV on the gaskets are what I used. So it has a name..."Intereference Fit"...cool.

Held in the head with Cotronics hi-temp ceramic epoxy.

Steve-O
 
I have driven my Ranchero 1,500 miles now since I removed the exhaust port divider and there is no loss in power or milelage. I pulled the spark plugs just to look at them and they should be the poster plugs for perfect firing.
 
I too pulled my divider when the welds broke and the rattling was driving me to my wit's end. I didnt notice any power difference either, however I suspect that with a more modded performance 200 there could be a difference. I've had the divider out for 2 years now, and until I have to pull the head, I'm just leaving it alone. Using Ultra Copper gasket sealer has kept the exhaust from burning through the gasket where the exhaust splits into the headers.
 
okay so i need to use cotronics, but what is the name of the stuff?

is there any other high temp adhesive that i could buy local so i don't have to order it?
 
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