exhuast port divider

B

barroom hero

Well-known member
what is the best way to install this? i know you can weld it in, but i dont have access to a welder or many people who know how to. would JB Weld do the job? just trying to plan ahead. thanks guys.
 
I just went through this. JB Weld isn't rated high enough heat wise. I found exhaust repair epoxy at my local auto store that was like two dollars. It has been working great for me, and it seemed to fill in any gaps. I haven't had any problems yet, but I only have about three hundred miles on my rebuilt engine.

I am sure others will have more experience to offer you. Good luck.

Ryan
 
As far as I know (I may be wrong) the header will hold it in place once it's all bolted together. Clifford recomends spotwelding it in place, probably to keep it in if you must remove the header later. Carbon would eventually fill in any small gaps. You may want to check and see if this is indeed so.
 
You'll find alot of disscussion here on this already if you do a search. Slade has the line on a high temp epoxy, 20+ years ago when I installed my first port divider :? I used JB Weld, or something similar, port divider came loose in no time, began rattling, destroyed the header gasket causing a major leak and eventually hammered it's way through the header itself.
Last one I put in I had welded :wink:

See Ya,
Mike
 
I used a 3000* rated turbine exhaust repair epoxy. We used the same stuff on my ship. Works like a charm. So far, 1 year with to problems. It also allows you to fill in some the open areas created by the imperfect fit and then grind them down to be smooth. I'm about to pull the head, so we'll know so just how well it held. I plan to use the same stuff on my Aussie head with headers.

Slade
 
It is recommended so you can even the flow of the #3 and #4 exhaust ports. Other wise, you have a lot of exhaust going into one area. Also, I think for most headers, it is required but the port divider also makes the port smaller and most of the headers match that size, not the original siamezed port size.

Slade
 
For the longest time, I just put mine in and bolted the header on. The interference fit seemed to hold just fine.

Once I get my engine back from the machine shop (long story), I think I will use one of the high-temp epoxys.

Better safe than sorry.
 
The best way is welding it. When I was at Clifford we used to recomend that you braize weld it in. We used to build hi-performance heads and would weld the divider in place and then mill the surface flush so that it looked like it came that way from the factory. Never ever just put it in there and hope it stays. It will come loose and ruin your headers. Also, you have to grind them to fit as no two heads are the same...
 
panic, you have to remember, #3 and 4 ports are the same port, just larger and combined. the point of the divider is to even the flow between the two before it gets to the header.

66, I got it from www.cotronics.com. It cost $26 for 3 4oz tubes of it. You'll need about 1 oz max of it. I may have a spare tube around somewhere, just have to find it. Hopefully it isn't in the garage, since it should be stored in cold temperatures (don't worry, only talking storage, not usage). If interested, I'll sell you one tube (if I cna find it). Just pM me.

Slade
 
Our6T6":y6m5vrpe said:
Is a port divider really needed for a header?
Click to expand...
It helps. But needed? No.

The 2V head came with custom made headers - no cast manifolds - yet no port divider or modified casting. It would have been easy for Ford to do, if they thought it necessary or worthwhile. As 3 and 4 are 180° out of phase in phiring, it seems scavenging was intended to help the flow.

There are plenty of Minis and other motors with siamesed ports pulling amazing numbers. If you can be sure of a way to secure the divider, then go for it... But don't be overwrought if you leave it out.

Panic - some guys here, did weld it that way. To bend race rules.

Adam.
 
Reason I was wondering is, I have a header just "taking up space right now" and was about to put it on but debated with myself about if it should be used or not. Thanks. Tim
 
Wouldn't the divider get too hot to braize? I wouldn't think that would hold it.
-Ryan
 
I took mine out, runs the same, no more rattle noise. Easer than welding.
 
IMO the reason the top of ports 3 and 4 look like a radiator is because Ford wanted additional heat under the carb. The port divider insulates some of the exhaust heat making for cooler running intake manifold which is good for performance. Maybe not good gas mileage in very cold weather. I tack welded mine in 2 places in the center - top & bottom - with nickle rod. If welded in too many places, the weld will crack from expansion.
 
It seems easy enogh to epoxy it in place, is there anything to watch out for or need to take into consideration?
 
I was careful to not let any epoxy fall back down the exhaust ports. I don't think you want that on your valves! I used the epoxy over the whole top surface of my divider, and also to fill the gap on the bottom and where it contacts the dividing post in the head. Here is a link to some pictures....good luck.
http://community.webshots.com/user/ryang001

Ryan
 
Has anybody done the epoxy with the head still on the engine in the car? I know that seems kindof lazy, but it sure would save alot of trouble.

By the way Ryan, nice lookin block, beautiful!
 
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