Fairmont turbo...

RacinNdrummin

Well-known member
I plan on putting a turbo on a 1979 ford fairmont with a 200 six. I have a .60 Garrett T3 which I think would be sized just right for some decent torque and midrange. The engine is stock down the the smog stuff. I am a fabricator and I can make everthing I need, and Im going to keep the boost right around 8 psi. How are the Rods in this engine and what can I expect from this combo, the car is a $150 throw away, so this is mainly just an expirement.
 
boost it. the rods will handle anything that the T3 can dish out. now you start talking about a bigger turbo and more boost then maybe you will need some better rods (but you will be in the 350+ range then I think)
 
I plan on running a blow-through setup with a custom enclosure. What are my options as far as fuel pumps? Is there anyway to pressurize the backside of the stock pump with the boost or am I going to have to go electric? Is there Boost-Fuel regulator I can buy? Do I have to reroute all of the vacuum lines to the front of the turbo or run a canister/check valve system?
 
well those questions are better suited for our turbo and efi forum. I am running a blowthrough with the stock pump. Dan-o was running a carter or holley pump (sbc chevy pump with the 6cyl arm swapped in it) the vacuum lines get moved around depending on the signal you need ot send with them.

dizzy goes to manifold
pump to bonnet
wastegate to bonnet
blowoff valve to manifold

as far as your brakes are concerned a check valve (should already be there) should be installed on the brake booster. I would assume you are going to ditch the emissions junk off the motor (air pump and all)
 
Yes im junking the Smog crap. Ill probably pull the engine, wash it, and paint it. I have to change the valve cover gasket too. The exhaust manifold has a small crack in it so im just going to make a turbo header for it. What are you doing for fuel pressure under boost? Also, where are you supplying the turbo oil from, the sending unit? if so, which is the oil sending unit, the one on the side of the bock or back of the head? what about vacuum to the modular valve on the tranny? and you want boost to the dist. to retard I assume??
 
1. fuel pressure is just referenced from teh manifold to the backside of the pump. the stock pumps port can be drilled with a 1/4 drill and tapped for 5/16 threads and I made my own nipple to thread in that hole (you could press in a length of tubing or epoxy something in there.

2. my oil is coming from the sending unit. I used to play with 2.3Ls so had a couple oil supply blocks around that thread into the block and have a 1/4" inverted line (brake line) and a hole for teh sender. used a 1/8"npt to flare fitting on the turbo and two lengths of brake line with a union behind the valvecover (easier to hook up if you have a couple joints you can leavea hair loose and then once all together tighten up)

3. oil is in block water is in head.

4. I have a manuial trans so you would have to ask linc or someone that is too lazy to shift :P

5. yes on the retard. you could lock it in but running boost to it will retard the ignition and it also allows for normal part throttle (non boost) operation.
 
4. I have a manuial trans so you would have to ask linc or someone that is too lazy to shift :P

ya I forgot about that, another one of my problems was I ALWAYS shifted the car, and driving on the highway it would downshift soooo easily, I was always afraid of it dropping down at too high of a speed but it never did as long as I was driving it, I forget what someone did to fix that, I believe mustangaroo suggested a fix? maybe Im wrong... it was just another thing I had to work out. But with the turbo and shift kit it was amazing would shift instantly and just keep pulling.
 
I think....but am not positive but I think there just needs to be a check valve installed in the vac line so that boost doesn't reach the modulator.
 
A line plumbed in the intake side of the turbo would generate enough vacuum to operate the modulator and allow tha trans to shift by herself i think.
 
CHACATA":2jfzugoy said:
A line plumbed in the intake side of the turbo would generate enough vacuum to operate the modulator and allow tha trans to shift by herself i think.

Doubtful. I’ll admit that I’m no expert on how much vacuum a trans needs to shift properly, but the suction (i.e.vacuum) on a compressor’s inlet is very little compared to that generated behind closed throttle blades (where most vacuum sources are).

I’d go with a canister/check valve setup.

My Spirit R/T had a “vacuumâ€￾ source on the suction side of the turbo for control of the AC vent damper. The thing would flap all over the place under boost because the vacuum generated was inadequate.

I would try an intake plenum vacuum source (i.e. behind the throttle blades) with a check valve. If need be, you can put a good sealing junkyard vacuum canister after the check valve to supply vacuum while you’re under boost. That’s what my Syclone has from the factory for the AC controls and cruise. It works great.

I think non-turbo 1990's S10s, S15s, Jimmys, Blazers etc also have them as well for WOT vacuum. It looks like a black plastic ball with a single vacuum nipple. I think they are under the battery tray.

And as stated earlier, factory turbo cars usually just have a check valve on the brake booster. It’s plumbed straight from the intake plenum. If you think about it, unless you’re trying to brake boost the car, you’re probably under vacuum conditions (i.e. throttle close) when you’re braking so everything works great.

Hope this helps.
 
99% of the time there'll be some vacuum in the system--just use a check valve and maybe a canister. Or switch to manual brakes--I've never seen the reason for power brakes in light cars.
 
where do you get a check valve? I made a new carb plate out of steel and I set the idle adjust screws and it runs ALOT better now, I can mash the gas while holding the brakes, unfortunately I cant drive the car because I have no seats :cry:
 
hasa68mustang":reoyxcgo said:
where do you get a check valve? I made a new carb plate out of steel and I set the idle adjust screws and it runs ALOT better now, I can mash the gas while holding the brakes, unfortunately I cant drive the car because I have no seats :cry:

Snag one out of a junk yard.

FWD turbo Dodges (1985-1993 Spirits, Daytonas, etc) have pretty good size check valves going to the brake booster. They also have smaller ones coming off of the throttle body nipples.

They are black and shaped about the size of a nickle or quarter (thicking though). Just pop one off and see if you can only blow through it one way.

Any turbo car should have at least a couple.
 
RacinNdrummin":1zllqylc said:
How are the Rods in this engine

I have proven the stock cast iron "non-forged" rods are good for well over 300 FWHP.


RacinNdrummin":1zllqylc said:
What are you doing for fuel pressure under boost?

I used a stock fuel pump with a nipple epoxied into the vent hole on the side for boost reference, it was good for 10 psi before I started killing the cheap check valves. I then switched to a dedicated electric system with Aeromotive regulator.


turbo_fairlane_200":1zllqylc said:
I think....but am not positive but I think there just needs to be a check valve installed in the vac line so that boost doesn't reach the modulator.

Yes, and there also needs to be a TINY vent hole between the check valve and modulator or else the modulator sees the "trapped" vacuum in the line, and then the trans thinks you are always at low throttle.
 
wallaka":2anhvtms said:
--I've never seen the reason for power brakes in light cars.

Well, the shut down area at the end of the 1/4 at the local track isn't very long, and when you hit 103 in the 1/4 you will want lots of brakes at the end. My car is very light.
 
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