Fan size and radiator size w/ oz head???

[Anonymous]

O.K i am getting ready to install oz head as soon as it returns from machinist. Preping for install I realized I may want to address some cooling issues before they become issues. Have a 66 200 adding oz head t-5 and 260 cam. Only daily driving no racing Would like to know what size radiator I should install(size, brand, price and where to get it if possible.) Also I am assuming I should upgrade the fan also so would just adding a flex fan be good or should i be looking for different fan applications? If so same question as w/ radiator (what, price, brand, where?) Thanks for any help. The more I think I have planned for everything the more I realize I have still missed plenty :roll: Thanks again!!
Mark

 

[CobraSix]

I ran flex fan, and I did not like it at all. Way too loud IMHO. Worked great though, looked great.

As far as the radiator. I would recommend the one from Mustangs Unlimited they sell for th 6 cylinders. It is a 3-row radiator. fits right up to the stock location. Very nice.

Slade

 

[Anonymous]

Thanks, if not the flex fan what size and type of fan? Also should I be thinking of adding a fan shroud also? Any help in this area would be greatly appreciated.
Mark

 

[CobraSix]

your car, if the cooling system is in good shape, should never overheat with a 3 row and a stock 4 blade fan. That's what I'm running now. never goes past the thermostat temp, even after idling for 30 minutes in 95*+ temps.

Slade

 

[MustangSix]

If your system is clean and working, the stock two row works fine for most cars up to maybe 175 hp. The stock two row cooled my 250 for years.

The six cylinder block is long and the water path is pretty convoluted. It goes from the pump, thru the block, then up the back of the head, then to the front of the head. Some gets diverted for the heater, and some gets diverted as a bypass when the thermostat is completely closed just to keep the pressure down.

When the water gets to the back of the block and begins to turn up into the head, the flow slows down and a ton of crud accumulates there. The junk accumulates over the years until it becomes little rusty chunks that can break loose. This crud sometimes flakes off, goes thru the head, and ends up in the top tank of the radiator. It then either blocks the tubes or gets in the tubes to slow the flow.

Then, also as the radiator ages, the lead in the solder begins to corrode and oxidize and a thing called "lead bloom" begins to grow over the tubes. Looks like chalk. It eventually grows over the tubes and blocks them off.

All of these things begin to take a toll on the radiator's abililty to shed heat. Then the owners start chasing problems all over trying to solve overheating problems. It usually comes down to rusty crud in the cooling system.

A couple of suggestions. Generally, if the car overheats at idle, but is good at cruise, the fan is too small or airflow is blocked. Conversely, if the car overheats as speed but cools back down at idle, the water flow is too little (or blocked).

 

[Anonymous]

Thanks for the info all. I have had very little problem w/ overheating. I had a couple episodes last summer where it would overheat sometimes shortly after starting to drive(atleast heat gage indicated overheating) shut the car off for a minute then no problem. Later discovered a vacuum leak in manifold. Would the manifold leak of caused any of the supposed overheating? If not, any ideas? Figured if the radiator was poor would be any easy swap if necessary. You have given me some great trouble shooting ideas Thanks for the info and help.
Mark

 

[Anonymous]

If I buy the 3 row radiator from mustangs unlimited, what else should I get w/ it? Will the cap from my current radiator fit? Just want to place whole order at once and not sure if I would need to/ should purchase anything else for the project? All help would be appreciated! Thanks in advance.
Mark