FLY WHEEL BOLTS COMMING LOOSE

[DYNOED250]

heya crew, with my last engine i had a nasty prob of the fly wheel bolts comming loose tried every thing. the engine was un balanced though.
i just dont want to damage the new engine, as the last one i destroyed the end of the crank. the new motor is balanced, with decend balancer, even pressure plate and flywheel are balanced.
do u think ill run into the same prob with the balanced engine

 

[xctasy]

GM destroya may have some other ideas!

The Valiant boys just use oversize Unbrako bolts a size bigger. These don't break easily. Hence the name!

A Sierra/ Cortina/Pinto OHC trick is to dowel the crank flange into 6 extra dowels between the existing 6 bolts.

If you did both, you'd be

a) poor and

b) destined to never have a flywheel leve the orbit of the crank.


Unless it explodes due to not being billet steel.
Or due to the torque converter exploding.
Ask Gary Meyers about his 66 Mustang experience.

He was doing a burnout, and the Powerglide blew, and severely injured his leg.

Geeze I can be a sarcastic wierdo.
Time to go to bed.

 

[Anonymous]

i've only ever used standard flywheel bolts, on my engines.

but all my flywheels a lightening, and the whole rotating mass is match weighed, and blue printed

each piston and rod all weigh the same amount, the crank is also balanced, with the the balancer, flywheel,clutch and pressure plate all installed on the crank, and spun to 8500rpm with no dramas

i dabble a bit of loctite on the bolt threads as well.

but a flywheel comming off is seriously crazy sh!t.
can hack a car in half like a buzz saw. i have a 5mm chrome moly bellhousing nappy to ensure mine doesnt cut my feet of when pushing 7000rpm.

cheers.joe.

 

[DYNOED250]

i put my fly wheel on today, used loctite super stud lock, cleanned all the treads, lined up all the balance marks on the pressure plate, to the fly wheel.... put it all together, using onld input shaft from single rail, just hope this all stays together..... cast iron bell housing will stop the flywheel wont it ??? ..... nar she will b good

 

[yeah right]

Loctite super stud lock eh? Damn - you might as well have welded the flywheel to the crank - they'll never be coming out again - even if you want them too.

 

[MustangSix]

Maybe you need to check those bolts. Most high strength bolts can stand to be torqued a time of two, but at some poijnt they lose their elasticity and cannot hold torque.

New bolts may be in order.

 

[Anonymous]

Loctite super stud lock eh? Damn - you might as well have welded the flywheel to the crank - they'll never be coming out again - even if you want them too.

getting them undone again is no biggie - nothing a rattle gun cant handle

 

[Anonymous]

Dyno,
I suppose you have, but have you looked at the contact between the crankshaft flange and the flywheel surface?
A test with the old bearing blue might be in order.
Bolt replacement would be advised.
And lots of Loctite.
Noel.

 

[MustangSix]

Locktite will keep them from turning, but it won't keep an old bolt from stretching. That's how a lot of failures occur. Think of the bolt as if it were rubber. When it's fresh, it's still eleastic and can pull down pretty well, but as it ages and is used, it's elasticity changes and it no longer maintains the same clamping force, even if it doesn't move.

 

[alloydave]

Dyno ,get some new arp bolts i think the number i used was 100-2801
and some loctite .
cheers dave

 

[yeah right]

Locktite super stud lock also grinds the threads in the crank up when you do pull the bolts out. You're better off using a loctite with a lower holding power.

 

[DYNOED250]

im not taking any chances this time. its not on a stocky, i still recken it will spit the bolts out with the super stud lock. and once it does it once its all over.

 

[xctasy]

Supermag posted something a while back that spoke of drilling through the flats of the bolts via with holes that allowed a wire to be placed through all six bolts.

That's another option.

 

[SuperMag]

Negative. I'm a proponent of the "bug screw." Similar to the principle used in firearms, but instead of using a big screw, just drill and tap through the (tightened) bolthead and into the flywheel for a small allen head set screw. That way, any loosening of the bolt will have to sheer the allen screw.

Oh, and as mentioned by others, use new bolts.

 

[Anonymous]

yeah i agree with everyone, always replace ur bolts when ever you undo them. cant be too safe in my book.

on another note, i have trouble finging arp bolt gear, where do you guys go to find allt he inof needed.

after a 6 month search i ended up discoveing that mitsubishi 4g63 arp rod bolts bolt up to the sohc ford i6 engine.. with minor machining so keep that in mind for future refernce

cheers.joe.