Flywheel

65 Mustang

Well-known member
Can anybody tell me how to remove the flywheel from the engine? I took off the clutch and pressure plate to have them rebuilt. I need to bring in the flywheel as well. I see six bolts that seem to be holding it on. When I turn them, though, the whole wheel turns. What's the trick? Thanks.
 
If you don't have an impact, try putting a bolt and nut through a bell housing hole, and use a large screwdriver or prybar against the teeth of the ring gear. Helps to have a second person, but you can do it solo.

... but an impact wrench is clearly the preferred option!
 
+1 impact wrench

There is a real tool designed for holding flywheels (starter ring gears) if you are inclined to head to a parts store and look for one.

ft23800.jpg


Works good for torqueing things back together also.
-ron
 
I should have read the rest of the thread that I found that picture on..

http://forums.vintage-mustang.com/vinta ... wheel.html
smittycm":l899twl2 said:
I couldn't break mine free with an air ratchet, and mine didn't have any holes to jam anything into either. I ended up removing one of the spark plugs and fed a bunch of nylon rope into it. The flywheel turned until the piston came to the top of that cylinders stroke, and then the rope prevented it from moving any further enabling me to break the bolts free with a breaker bar. I bought a 24" long 1/2" drive breaker bar from Harbor Freight for like $11. It's one of the best tools I've ever purchased. Makes quick work of just about anything... including drywall.
kstang65":l899twl2 said:
I used a wrench on one of the other bolts to keep it from spinning while using a breaker bar to remove the other bolts. When I got to the last 2 bolts, I used each to loosen the other. The last bolt was then loose enough to just give the breaker bar a quick smack with my hand to get it started.

The bolts we're too tight so this worked fine for me but if your bolts are over-torqued or rusted, you'll want to use the flywheel removal tool.
EastCoastClassic":l899twl2 said:
For what it's worth a friend of mine recently needed a flywheel wrench as shown,I was away so he couldn't borrow mine.He went to the local Advance autoparts and did the free loan a tool deal .

-ron
 
the free "loan a tool" deal

just bring enuff $ to buy it (or have in an account which U use a 'swipe card' @ cash register) 1st - they give that back when U return the tool.
 
I use the tool loan program for things that I don't use a lot..
Ball Joint Press
Spring Compressor
O2 sensor sockets
ODBC scanner (in parking lot only)

They are in the business of selling parts, it is in their best interest to keep the 'do it yourself' guy working on it himself, otherwise their profit margin shrinks by selling wholesale to jobbers.

-ron
 
On a bolt like that where an impact is required, I just smack the end of the rachet with the side of a hammer (I use a 1/2" Craftsman rachet). Use the holding hand on the rachet head, and keep the socket firmly pressed onto the bolt head. Use a 6 point socket or an impact socket, and everything is good....oh, it only takes 1-2 strikes at most, and then you can rachet it off. If you can't stomach abusing a rachet that way, the same technique will work fine with a long end wrench.

John/Fresno
 
I take a small screw driver, and it can fit in one of the hole in the FW, usually aim it for the starter hole as it's the only place. then just un-bolt it letting the driver wedge up against the block plate. it's strong enough. I even tightened those bolts with the same method.
 
Back
Top