Ford 223 Restart

Now the starter doesn't want to turn with the solenoid anymore... I have to connect it directly to the battery... And I turned the engine by hand and now the starter makes a strange noise, it makes like a ratchet noise when I turn the flywheel, isn't there something stuck???
 
I just went through some similar starting issues with my 62, 223. First I had very low compression. My issue with that was that the way I set the valves was the procedure for hydraulic lifters. Once I reset them with the correct procedure for solid lifters, I had great compression and the engine would at least pop and burb and try to start. Then after some trial and error I realized my distributor was 1 tooth off. Once I reset that, It now fires up with barely a key turn.

Not sure if any of this applies to you, but wanted to share just in case. Good Luck!
 
Now the starter doesn't want to turn with the solenoid anymore... I have to connect it directly to the battery... And I turned the engine by hand and now the starter makes a strange noise, it makes like a ratchet noise when I turn the flywheel, isn't there something stuck???
I had that same sound when turning it over by hand, but when I crank it at the key, it doesn't make the noise. The starter made be fine, I wondered if the faster cranking speed is just what is needed to get the right amount of throw in the starter
 
Many thanks to all for your help but I'm going to stop torturing this poor engine, I think I damaged the starter by pulling on it so much so I'm going to try to do things properly. Someone told me that it was similar to a barn find and that it was better to take everything apart right away to check everything and redo everything correctly and I think he's right, so I'm going to take it apart and start again, I'll make a special poste for that because I'll probably need your precious help again, thanks again to everyone.
 
I had that same sound when turning it over by hand, but when I crank it at the key, it doesn't make the noise. The starter made be fine, I wondered if the faster cranking speed is just what is needed to get the right amount of throw in the starter
I didn't remember having this noise before so I thought I had broken something, however for me too when the starter works on the battery there is no this noise.
 
I quickly resumed compressions at lunchtime and, without removing the candles, I have already gained an average of 20% compression just with yesterday's start, that's rather encouraging, right ?
 
Hi guys, so this Saturday I mounted the exhaust and installed the radiator.

Good news the radiator is not leaking and is not dirty inside however I have a leak on the water pump as you can see on the video, I think it is the gasket? what do you think?

The engine starts very well but the idle is high (probably a carburetor problem, adjustment or something) and I find that it "vibrates" a lot as you can see on the video.

So next step disassemble the water pump and everything else

 
Hi guys, so this Saturday I mounted the exhaust and installed the radiator.

Good news the radiator is not leaking and is not dirty inside however I have a leak on the water pump as you can see on the video, I think it is the gasket? what do you think?

The engine starts very well but the idle is high (probably a carburetor problem, adjustment or something) and I find that it "vibrates" a lot as you can see on the video.

So next step disassemble the water pump and everything else

That is not the gasket. It is the seal in the water pump. You will need to rebuild or replace the pump. Note that the water is coming out of a weep hole in the snout of the pump, on the bottom. It's not coming from the block.
 
Hello everyone, I took it apart this morning and the fluid is leaking through this screw, and at this point the seal has been cut so... where is the leak coming from ?

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That is highly unusual. As Frank said above, it is usually the shaft seal.

I was going to suggest that you check out the "miss" in the engine first. You can isolate the cylinder by removing one spark plug wire at a time. Whichever one doesn't make a difference in the roughness is the problem. Make sure you use a tool specific for the job or something that is very well insulated. The voltage from the coil is very high and will give you quite a "tickle."

Lou
 
I'm not sure I understood, is it because of the engine vibrations that you are telling me to disconnect the spark plugs one by one?
 
I ordered a new water pump from Rockauto and a set of spark plugs because the porcelain on the ones I have is cracked on all the spark plugs, almost broken on one of them, they are new but I mistreated them a bit taking them off and putting them back on and with the starting attempts
 
I ordered a new water pump from Rockauto and a set of spark plugs because the porcelain on the ones I have is cracked on all the spark plugs, almost broken on one of them, they are new but I mistreated them a bit taking them off and putting them back on and with the starting attempts
This is a good plan. Sometimes the pumps do not include the gasket. Be sure to use a new gasket also.
 
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