forgot what a pain in the ....

peugeot bill

Well-known member
spent last night painting the inside of my block! the outside is infinitly easier. i still have rustoleum on my hands. now i have to wait for this to cure so we can start washing the block. and yeah, i have rubber gloves and i hate wearing them.
 
hay peugeot bill
Boy good luck on your inside paint job..BUT! :shock:
I would never put paint inside a motor eventuly it well start flaking off from heat and oil saturationand plug stuff up.. Just my opeion... I would rather take a grinding tip and clean up all the ruff spots and open up the holes to keep the oil in the pan.. All that time painting the inside and who's going to see it... just your oil :lol:
Anyway good luck
Tim
 
Welllll, painting the internals has been done for years and there are some valid reasons for doing so. One is to seal any possible sources of porosity from releasing casting sand back into the engine, and the other is to aid in oil drainback. Personally, I don't know how much faith I'd put in it for sealing casting porosity.

This is usually done on the top side of the engine, heads and intake galley, as opposed to the internal portions of the block, but hey, it's only time. :wink:

Glyptal is one of the more notable coatings used for this, but Rustoleum's rusty metal primer is also commonly used.

You know, fwiw. 8)
 
I read my Eastwood catalog and they advertise a internal application that makes oil move through the engine alot smoother with less turbulance..ZZ
 
8) i have seen engine builders paint the block internals, and i have seen the block internals polished. when both are done right they work equally well.
 
Dragracers have been painting the insides of their engines for years, mostly for oil drainback.

BUT - those fellas usually pulled their engines apart after a couple dozen runs for check and rebuild, if the paint was going to peel they´d notice.

How often do you rip your average street/strip-engine apart?

I´d vote for stress relieving, deburring and polishing. Takes you further in the long run IMHO
 
well my six will only see 1/8th mile at a time. I finished touching up my paint job. go get a cheap long artist brush and take your time. and use rustoleum damp proof primer red. the other stuff, rusty metal primer will come off! and let it dry for several days to a week to cure. then some hot water and tide and voila, clean ready to build.

bill
 
I like what Simon says. Also with Synthetic oil these days, I really question any concern for drain down, etc. Simon's response makes the most sense to me.
 
There are plenty of industrial situations where a lot more than a 200 cube motor is at stake, and internal coatings are employed in a stressed environment. I'd be confident enough of the paint adhering. That said, what of the extra surface area of a rough cast finish unpainted? Better heat transfer?

Regards, Adam.
 
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