Fun times ahead

[cr_bobcat]

So I naively thought that I was just going to go in and replace my water pump. After having pulled the front grill, radiator, and fan I thought I was good to go. But then the lower bolt on the pump had to sheer. Luckily, it broke with about 1 1/2" sticking out of the block. So I went to work. Drained as much fluid as I could, jacked the front end up a touch to for the remaining coolant back, plugged the waterway with a rag, and proceeded to dump copious amounts of pentrating oil onto the bolt and let 'er sit for a day and a half. Gave her a twist or two (rocking back and forth with the vise-grips) and managed to sheer it off with about 3/8" poking out of the block. I've tried a hammer on bolt loosener and that failed. So now i'm pulling the balancer and timing cover so that I can get in there with the hot wrench. That guy is stuck in there good.

So here's where I ask for advise:
Since the timing cover will be off, I figure I'll go ahead and replace the timing chain and gears. I don't "plan" on doing a major overhaul on the block yet so should I sink the money into the double roller, or just go stock for now?

I had acquired some chrome (grade 5 steel) bolts to replace the bolts for the pump and thermostat housing. They're purty! Anyway, should I stick with the chrome or take 'em back and order the stainless bolt set?

Also figure I'll go ahead and replace the balancer since I've got it off. When I was looking at the gaskets I saw something called a "timing cover repair sleeve". I've never heard of using one. Is this necessary if I'm just planning on getting a new balancer?

Should I pull the oil pan or leave it in for this procedure? Looks like the timing cover gasket comes with some pan gasket to be trimmed into place.

Any other advice? I've got a sneaky suspicion that I'm going to just have to drill out that stupid bolt and chase the threads. Given the amount of liquid wrench I've already thrown on this thing, I don't think it's just going to magically break loose with a little heat.

 

[stu in wichita]

I had the same thing happen. If I'm understanding which bolt it is, the lower bolt on went clear through into the impeller cavity of the block.

I planned to use an "easy-out" or if necessary, drill it out and chase the threads. My radiator was out, but my A/C coil prevented a straight shot. I had enough room for a drill with a 90-degree angle head and a short bit. Fortunately, as the drill penetrated the bolt, it broke loose and screwed the rest of the way into the cavity. I was able to fish the piece out with a magnet. I guess the heat/friction/vibration from the drilling broke it loose.

Anyway, it might be worth a try before you take it apart any further. Good luck. As far as the bolts go, the grade 5 should be more than adequate.

-Stu

 

[woodbutcher]

Where you have a bolt that is not in a blind hole,AND you can get to the backside of the bolt just screw it all the way through and remove it with a long nose pliers or a magnet.
Good luck.Have fun.Be safe.
Leo

 

[JT81stang]

For piece of mind, go with stainless for the bolts. They never need painting, they don't turn color, just set it and forget it.

 

[rbohm]

So I naively thought that I was just going to go in and replace my water pump. After having pulled the front grill, radiator, and fan I thought I was good to go. But then the lower bolt on the pump had to sheer. Luckily, it broke with about 1 1/2" sticking out of the block. So I went to work. Drained as much fluid as I could, jacked the front end up a touch to for the remaining coolant back, plugged the waterway with a rag, and proceeded to dump copious amounts of pentrating oil onto the bolt and let 'er sit for a day and a half. Gave her a twist or two (rocking back and forth with the vise-grips) and managed to sheer it off with about 3/8" poking out of the block. I've tried a hammer on bolt loosener and that failed. So now i'm pulling the balancer and timing cover so that I can get in there with the hot wrench. That guy is stuck in there good.

So here's where I ask for advise:
Since the timing cover will be off, I figure I'll go ahead and replace the timing chain and gears. I don't "plan" on doing a major overhaul on the block yet so should I sink the money into the double roller, or just go stock for now?

i would go with stock replacements for now, and buy the good double roller when rebuild/replacement time rolls around.

I had acquired some chrome (grade 5 steel) bolts to replace the bolts for the pump and thermostat housing. They're purty! Anyway, should I stick with the chrome or take 'em back and order the stainless bolt set?

stick with the bolts you bought, just remember to not over tighten them when putting things back together. also chase the threads before putting things back together as well to help make sure this never happens again.

Also figure I'll go ahead and replace the balancer since I've got it off. When I was looking at the gaskets I saw something called a "timing cover repair sleeve". I've never heard of using one. Is this necessary if I'm just planning on getting a new balancer?

the balancer repair sleeve is just a thin piece of metal, usually stainless steel, that goes on the balancer snout that goes through the seal. its done when a balancer has had a groove worn into the snout and is leaking oil. since you plan on replacing the balancer, you dont need the repair kit.

Should I pull the oil pan or leave it in for this procedure? Looks like the timing cover gasket comes with some pan gasket to be trimmed into place.

you dont need to pull the pan, but you do need to drop the front part, this the bits of pan gasket that are included in the gasket set. when you go to put that part back together, use a little black RTV sealer in the corners there to prevent oil leaks. you dont need a lot so dont glop it on.

Any other advice? I've got a sneaky suspicion that I'm going to just have to drill out that stupid bolt and chase the threads. Given the amount of liquid wrench I've already thrown on this thing, I don't think it's just going to magically break loose with a little heat.

follow the advice of stu and leo. i had a similar thing happen to me, on a chevy exhaust manifold, where the bolt broke off and i was drilling the bolt out. at some point enough heat and vibration loosened the bolt enough that the bolt started spinning again and went out the back of the hole. i found a bolt in the schools bolt bin that was too ling, so i cut it off and recut the threads on the bolt, chased the threads in the hole and bolted every thing back together and never had an issue with that particular bolt again.

 

[woodbutcher]

As a last piece of non ignorable advice.Use PLENTY of ANTI SIEZE.On EVERY nut,bolt screw and ANY threaded fastener.AND spark plugs.
Good luck.Have fun.Be safe.
Leo

 

[cr_bobcat]

Guh, what a pain in the arse. So the bolt refuses to release, regardless of what I try. Frustrating. The only thing that seems to work is using some fancy-pants centering drill/removal tool I picked up from Sears. And this bad boy is only taking out about an 1/8" at a time. I center drilled the bolt first, making sure I don't touch the threads in the block. Oh well, a couple more goes at it and I'll have 'er out. It does look like someone may have used locktite blue on the bolt. Lesson learned I guess. Should have it all finished this weekend. No big hurry. Winter time here and the ar isn't going very far anyway...

 

[Soldmy66]

As a last piece of non ignorable advice.Use PLENTY of ANTI SIEZE.On EVERY nut,bolt screw and ANY threaded fastener.AND spark plugs.
Good luck.Have fun.Be safe.
Leo

As for exhaust manifold bolts, dipping them in antacid (and allowing them to dry befor installation) provides a powdered coating that GREATLY helps when having to remove them in the future.