getting the motor ready for aluminium

That seems to be the gist of everything I have seen. I likely won't try to improve upon that design. K.I.S.S right?
 
Well got a call from the machine shop today. Price, including .030" bore, pistons, rings, bearings(all), balancing, recon. rods (including new ARP bolts), and making the necessary checks to ensure that was all that was needed. came in just a hair over $1k. :shock: That put a smile on my face, and all I need now is the gasket set, assemble everything, cam, and I am trying to decide if the extra funds for Main Studs would be absolutely neccesary. What do ya'll think here?

Told them that pickup would have to wait till I get my tax refund, which was fine with them since they still wanted to paint it for me.

Just posting an update for anyone following this,
After I get the block and all back I will tripple check all my measurements for compression and whatnot.

Gerald
 
Well another update for anyone curious.

I have the engine back in, a floor mount gas pedal that looks SOOOO much better and is tons more functional. We found out when disassembling the 170 again :( that the stock manifolds will NOT function on the aluminium head. We decided to drop the engine in then the head with intake and header on as a unit which is so much easier than doing it as a one peice or trying to fiddle with the intake and header separately.

We started to put the exhaust together with waldron's "imposter" kit which we knew was accidentally the oem style kit when it came in (I was okay with that), however the mufflers would not fit into the space between the tank and frame on the drivers side. Got on the phone with Mike and Waldron's exhaust to sort the situation out and they are currently assembling an Arvinode system that is specially fitted for my car based on my concerns and realities of the car and also allowed me to upsize since I went to a larger engine after this whole mess. They have made this whole issue just a new speedbump and not a road block for me, they really have been so easy to deal with and it was nice that they allowed me to upgrade while taking care of warrantee concerns even though I recieved the exhaust back in september or october.

Oil pump issues: We went ahead and got a new oil pump for a 63 with the smaller shaft drive, thinking that it would just go in place of the newer one, it doesn't, the main stud doesn't allowe it to get tightened down more than half way. we picked up a late model that fit into the spot right and then had to decide how to deal with the shaft issue for the early model DUI. For this we decided to actually shave down the shaft end that goes into the DUI, which is tricky on a table grinder, but was successful and fits in quite snuggly until I can get something else together.

I suppose in the next week or so all this struggle will either pay off or fail me again for some unforseen reason, but I am feeling very confident that I will be driving her again before long.

Gerald
 
I know my car isn't even ready to drive yet, but I am investigating a future build on the forum to kill time anyway.

I found a thread by xtacy that actually helped explain why my engine bit the dust when everything else was in order.

from a thread in 2006 which he outlined several options for sleaving the I6 to improve rod ratios and increase displacement easily as well as strength.
xctasy":266ii00r said:
Thanks Will. :D

In your case, it was just the opposite. I hope I haven't 'bad mouthed' the awesome 250! That sleeve is a work of art!

I've taken a few excerpts from some development engineers from Ford (Bill Santacecione has been quoted for his commons on I6's and the dentonation common X-flow heads). He said that the I6 was way too cool up front, and that wear was common in the front.

Asside from the more common 380 to 600 hp engines,Nizpro Turbocharging engineers automatically sleeve number one as it is a known problem point on I6's. They had to do this on the famed 1200 hp 4.0 dohc turbo.

http://www.nizpro.com.au/images/article ... /ghia7.jpg


this is awesome information that i wish I had back when building the first engine with the aluminium head, but oh well. I will definitely apply it to my next build and learn from it.
 
Well I'm starting to see light at the end of this here tunnel. We got her runnin today, open headers of course. (i had to hear it) :LOL: :eek:

Can't do much tuning yet, as the timing light bit the dust and I cannot for the life of me remember how we got the tach to work, but she holds up and runs very steadily, considering the lope of course. When we do get her tuned in, it will be extemely cautious with it until i get some more useable jets in. I will buy 48-54 to be safe and start at 50 as CI dyno room shows that working on a lot of the similar setups.

If anyone can point me towards jets it would help imensely.

I need to get the exhaust on so that I can hear tuning differences, but It should be a very simple from the looks of it. the last one was with the exception of the mufflers not fitting into a spot less than half the size allowed.

Also I REALLY REALLY need someone to measure a stock 200 adjustable pushrod. Mine are too short by about a quarter inch. I heard somewhere that the 200 was a smidge taller than the 170.

thanks all if i get any info for jets or pushrods it will help a lot.
Gerald
 
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