Giving up. Way to make my ignition circuit?

[pikesan]

Personally, I would not even think about ripping out the old wires.

Good luck

What he said.
I replaced everything with a Painless Performance kit. When I got started, it seemed impossible. Now, wiring is one of things working well!

Like Bronco said, get a test light and a wiring diagram and start trouble shooting and labeling wires. The wire colors can be your guide to keeping things simple. Once you think it's hooked up correctly, turn the key to on and check for voltage at the coil and at the back of the starter switch. Then try cranking. Once the starter circuit is figured out, I bet your spark problem will go away. (fingers crossed!)

Good luck!!

 

[bubba22349]

I mean with everything back assembled properly and holding the spark plug out to ground I'm getting nothing.

Well is it really assembled properly? From your video it shows that the run position of your ignistion switch is working getting power to the Distribitor. You said you changed the coil did you hook up the coil wires correctly? Stock Ford coil are easy as the marking the distribtor side and ignistion side, not so with most aftermarket coils they are marked + and - which wire did you hook up to were? Working on many old cars I can't tell you how many times I have seen these wires hooked up wrong. Use your muilti meter to test the wires and voltage what voltage reading ar you getting at the coil? What voltage do you have at the battery posts? Battery fulley charged is 13.8 - 13.4 volts a discharged battery needs to be brought back up to full voltage. What voltage do you have at solenoid? Looks like your battery cables could use some cleaning. Are you getting any voltage going to the starter solinod from the ignistion switch?

X4 Don't be so quick to blame all the old wiring just yet! See wiring diagrams below for help in figuring out the wiring. In many of your posts you stated that your on a tight budget doing a rewire is expensive, I would work with what you have then repairing or replacing some wires only as needed. Did you start by cleaning all the wiring conections and the engine grounds too, this almost free to do? And each conection that's not clean can result in lower voltage. Good luck Edited



1964 Ford Falcon wiring diagram part 2 shows the ignistion system.
http://www.wiring-wizard.com/Diagrams/64_Falcon-2.JPG

1964 Ford Falcon wiring diagram part 1
http://www.wiring-wizard.com/Diagrams/64_Falcon-1.JPG

 

[1976RFordman]

I have experienced that with these cheap solenoids if you tighten the nuts too tight on the studs, you will cause the stud to rotate and make contact internally. The solenoid needs replaced or taken apart and fixed (not that easy). Make sure to only tighten lightly.
As for the no spark to the plugs. If you have spark at the points but none at the plugs, it is a bad cap or rotor. I had a truck that I installed an new Napa cap and rotor and about 100 miles later was not getting spark to the plugs. Turned out that the cap was bad even though you could see nothing visually wrong with it. Like others have said make sure you are testing for spark correctly. Your factory wiring is most likely fine.

 

[falcon_master]

Thanks for the info and diagrams. I have it hooked up properly with the red wire going to the positive and black going to negative. Both marked. I will look at it again to double check though. Thanks

 

[falcon_master]

Hey everyone thanks for all your tips. You guys were right it was the simplest thing. The ground in the distributor was so lose I could wiggle it all over the place. Well me being and absolutely dumb idiot I am pulled the distributor ( in my defense I'm really tired and missed a massive detail) I took pictures and everything of where and how the distributor was but what I didn't check was the engine was in TDC ( which it wasn't) and to make a mark on the dizzy (DOH!!) So I plugged in the electrical stuff and tested the spark and now it's super strong like lightning!! But I have no way if knowing how the distributor goes in properly. So tomorrow I've gotta find TDC and set the dizzy up so it'll be firing #1 and drop it in and then I gotta re time the engine. Any advice on how to do this

 

[bubba22349]

Then you will need to pull 1 spark plug listen for air coming out as you turn engine in the direction as running (by wrench) or you can place a piece of tissue over the hole when it blows it of your starting the compression stroke on number 1 check your Dampner and continue on to 8 degrees BTDC. Drop in the Distribitor so the rotor is pointing at the number 1 tower on your cap. The rotor will need to be backed up slightly because of the gear as it sides down it will move forward a little. Good luck :rolflmao:

 

[chad]

don't feel bad, ur new 2 this. By good skills (& persistence) U found the problem (used eyes, ears, sense of touch & smell, etc). With the persistence U will get the skills/knowledge!

"... The rotor will need to be backed up slightly because of the gear as it sides down it will move forward a little..." Ever try'n put a jar cap on so the label sits right side up (or other twist on 'line-up')? This is kinda the same due to the helical shape of the gear on distributor. Turn rotor back a lill frm the wanted "end up place" 2 get it to line up when secured down, as it rotates as lowered. Good Luck, keep talkin~

 

[bubba22349]

Ok If you took pictures and know were the rotor was as long as the engine wasn’t turned any then distributor could go right back in again. Otherwise if engine was turned then followed the above post. Good luck

 

[B RON CO]

Hi, as Bubba said, if you know where the rotor was pointing before, you can put the distributor back the same way, as long as the crankshaft hasn't moved. It is easy if the rotor is pointing at something close, like #3 spark plug for instance. We do it all the time. You will still have to adjust the timing after it is running and warmed up. Good luck

 

[falcon_master]

So I found TDC on #1 and put the distributor in with the rotor also on #1 cyl. And now when I crank it it coughs alot and sputters but won't stay going. No matter what ether or gasoline it just keeps sputtering. Should I try advancing the timing more cause I put it in at TDC and was thinking once it started I would time it back to 8° before TDC. But it's not even starting. I'll check my spark again but I'd imagine it's ok if it's enough to cause it to cough. Any advice is appreciated thanks

 

[frozenrabbit]

Please tell me you put the distributor in with the rotor pointing at #1 on the cap, and not the engine block. See that before.

You could be at TDC of the exhaust stroke, making it 180 degrees out, or off a tooth at compression TDC.

 

[falcon_master]

No iput it on the #1 terminal. That's possible but I don't think it would cough if I 180d it

 

[frozenrabbit]

It can cough 180 out, unburned fuel/air can fire off with the exhaust valves open.

Too far advanced will crank slower and be hard to start, if at all.

 

[falcon_master]

Well guys it's official it runs now. It sounds like an absolute turd and even at full throttle it's barley even turning but it runs. Carb is all gummed up so probably why. Now I'm gonna put some water in it and see what I can do about the carburetor. Is it worth rebuilding it or just cough up the $100 and get a rebuilt one

 

[1976RFordman]

Nice job getting it going. I would rebuild the carb. Its a good learning experience if you never have done it. Its pretty easy, just make sure you get all the passages cleaned out. Make sure air will blow through the holes. These old cars are great to learn on.

 

[B RON CO]

Hi, I'll bet the timing is way off. If it runs (bearly), the timing is probably off, maybe the distributor is one tooth off. Time to get the balancer mark to TDC and see where the rotor is pointing. If it is not at #1, it should be 180 degrees out, bring it to #1 TDC and post what you see. Good luck

 

[Econoline]

What ever happened with your wiring problems?

 

[falcon_master]

It's pointing at #1 directly at 5-6° before TDC anything else than that and it refuses to run. I think it's a carb problem because at WOT it's probably only turning 800 rpm and it's stumblong like crazy. It'll go really low than jump up real quick to like a thousand and than idle really low again. I'll post a video

 

[wsa111]

Reverse polarity wiring at coil or module?
Pull #1 spark plug & bring piston to TDC, does the timing mark on the balancer align with TDC on timing cover tab?

 

[falcon_master]

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=HuJx7wxVb ... e=youtu.be