Jimwell150
Active member
Looking for a good one barrel carb with electric choke that'll work well with my dui. Have a holley 350 on it now and not to happy with it.
Good 1bl carb for 200 w/ dui
- Thread starter Jimwell150
- Start date
there is always this one;
http://classicinlines.com/proddetail.as ... L-1100-RBT
personally though i would skip the automatic choke and go for this one;
http://classicinlines.com/proddetail.as ... AY-200-URC
http://classicinlines.com/proddetail.as ... L-1100-RBT
personally though i would skip the automatic choke and go for this one;
http://classicinlines.com/proddetail.as ... AY-200-URC
Howdy Jim:
You're looking for a carb that does NOT have a Spark Control Valve (SCV) to be compatible with the vacuum advance system on your DUI distributor. You '67 200 cylinder head has a 1.5" carb hole. Question- was the head modified to adapt the Holley 2 barrel?
For appropriate one barrels with automatic hot air choke, you'll be looking for an Autolite 1101 from a 1969 Mustang 250 or a 1970 and later Carter YF. Both will need some adapting;bolt spacing, linkage, fuel line, carb hole and air cleaner.
Good luck. Keep us posted on your progress.
Adios, David
You're looking for a carb that does NOT have a Spark Control Valve (SCV) to be compatible with the vacuum advance system on your DUI distributor. You '67 200 cylinder head has a 1.5" carb hole. Question- was the head modified to adapt the Holley 2 barrel?
For appropriate one barrels with automatic hot air choke, you'll be looking for an Autolite 1101 from a 1969 Mustang 250 or a 1970 and later Carter YF. Both will need some adapting;bolt spacing, linkage, fuel line, carb hole and air cleaner.
Good luck. Keep us posted on your progress.
Adios, David
Jimwell150
Active member
The set up I have now is a stock 200 with the dui and holley 350 with adapter. Just not happy with the 350 and thinking of going back to the 1 barrel. The motor is actually in my rat rod. So filter, linkage, etc is not a problem to make up cuz I had to do that already.
Jimwell150
Active member
Haven't ever heard of one.
Jimwell150":255lbwa1 said:
really? they came on a variety of ford engines, mostly 302s from about 1968 through about 1982. if you dont want to search up a good used one, then go to your local parts store and order up a reman from something like a 1975 mustang ll with the 302 V8. thats what i did when i swapped a two barrel carb onto my old 66 falcon.
Autolite 2100's were used from 1957 to 1971. They have annular discharge boosters and the same footprint as 2 barrel holley. Pick one with the choke style and venturi size you need for you're motor.
http://www.gottafishcarburetors.com/Autolite 101.html
http://www.gottafishcarburetors.com/Autolite 101.html
Jimwell150
Active member
Was looking into getting the '69 carb from rock auto. Part number c844. What kind of carb spacer do I get? Also will it work out of the box or do I have to rejet it?
I'd strongly suggest you tune the Holley 350 cfm carb and ignition you have now.
The problem with running
a Holley 2300 series (#7748 350cfm 1.19"/#4412 500 cfm 1.38")
an Autolite 2100 or Motorcraft 2150 (sizes from 0.98/1.01/1.02/1.08/1.14/1.21/1.23/1.33 or 190/240/245/287/300/351/356/424 cfm)
is that each are set up for V8's between 221 to 390 cubic inches (3.6 to 6.6 liters) and not 200 to 250 cubic inches (3.3 to 4 .1 liters) I6 like our cars are.
The fuel delivery curve needs adjustment to suit the needs of a small I6. Without work on
1.Idle Air Bleeds,
2.well tubes,
3.power valve channel restrictions,
4.power valves and
5.jetting,
any carb you get will cost performance compared to the Holley you have now.
The Autolite and Motorcraft carbs cost performance because they are high signal carbs which are generally cost about 10% in performance over a Holley, with a similar gain if fuel economy.
What the best Holley 2-bbl tuners do is enlarge the air bleeds with a kit, and adjust the power valve and power vale channel restrictions, and then check with an air fuel meter of oxygen sensor.
By all means if you are unhappy with your 2-bbl Holley, go get an Autolite, but the money spent on adjusting the air fuel ratio via those five methods above will work. and give you a good result.
The problem with running
a Holley 2300 series (#7748 350cfm 1.19"/#4412 500 cfm 1.38")
an Autolite 2100 or Motorcraft 2150 (sizes from 0.98/1.01/1.02/1.08/1.14/1.21/1.23/1.33 or 190/240/245/287/300/351/356/424 cfm)
is that each are set up for V8's between 221 to 390 cubic inches (3.6 to 6.6 liters) and not 200 to 250 cubic inches (3.3 to 4 .1 liters) I6 like our cars are.
The fuel delivery curve needs adjustment to suit the needs of a small I6. Without work on
1.Idle Air Bleeds,
2.well tubes,
3.power valve channel restrictions,
4.power valves and
5.jetting,
any carb you get will cost performance compared to the Holley you have now.
The Autolite and Motorcraft carbs cost performance because they are high signal carbs which are generally cost about 10% in performance over a Holley, with a similar gain if fuel economy.
What the best Holley 2-bbl tuners do is enlarge the air bleeds with a kit, and adjust the power valve and power vale channel restrictions, and then check with an air fuel meter of oxygen sensor.
By all means if you are unhappy with your 2-bbl Holley, go get an Autolite, but the money spent on adjusting the air fuel ratio via those five methods above will work. and give you a good result.
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