Got an oil problem and need some guidance

fordguy67

Active member
I am new to this site and just love the advice that comes from all the experience here. I have been reading these forums for a couple months now and decided that I should join. I have taken some things I read and I have adapted them to my application.

Ok, with that said, a little background. I have a 67 Mustang coupe with a 200, 3 speed top-loader, 4 lug drums, and a stock rear end. This was my first car and still is. I bought the car in ’96 for $500 at the age of 15. My father and I did an entire off-body restoration, minus the motor, trans, or rear end.
So its been a long process.
Not a daily driver. Just a classic garage kept car. Looking back now I would do several things different.

Ok, here is the problem. Few months back I was talking the car out for the monthly drive to keep the seals oiled and noticed some blue smoke start to roll out of the exhaust. So I think to myself, 97,000 original miles, I need to change the rings on this thing. So today I was testing out my new electric fan install and noticed that the rocker arms are knocking, so I took off the breather cap and it is dry as a bone. Oil checks good and the sump was working 5 years ago when I had it out to clean up the bottom end and replace the seals. The head is not original because the original was toast when I got. The replacement head went to the shop and was totally redone 4 years back. Has maybe 75 miles on it since then. Could it be the channels are clogged? Did my sump go bad? Or is it the rings are just letting so much oil pass that I am not getting any up to the rockers? I look like a mosquito truck fogging the road it is that bad. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks
Ben
 
Nice car and welcome to the forum...if the head was just redone and you did not redo the bottom end, even with only 97K...if the PO did not change the oil as much as he should have, my guess is that it's just tired and ready for a freshen up...the head it too new to have the seals go out on it, even with the short driving you do...what you have there is a perfect example of what will happen if you put a new head on a tired engine...you increased the cylinder pressures which caused the bottom end to go that much sooner...now if the PO had done his maintenance like he was supposed to, then your head would have never been is that bad of condition with only 97K...so it does seem that you might just plan to redo the bottom end this time...sorry to be the bear of bad news...there just isn't a miracle additive that can fix a mosquito smoker...look at it this way, at least you have a good head...shouldn't cost more then 3-500 bucks, depending on how much you do yourself...at least you'll have an excuse to install a better cam :lol:

Dave 8)
 
I don't know, the head shouldn't be completely dry, something seems fishy like maybe the oil passage got blocked or something. Long before tear down I'd try something like pulling the distributor and re-priming the pump, at the same time I'd attach a mechanical oil pressure gauge to see what type of readings you are getting. The next thing I'd try would be a compression test (if consistent readings) then a leak down compression check and if all that passes then I'd be tearing into the engine.

Knocking rockers on a motor with hydraulic lifters could be one of 2 things
1. Rockers are way out of adjustment, but this can only be a problem if they are adjustable (are yours?)
2. No oil getting to the cam/lifters so they are failing to pump up
3? could the lifters be air locked? Sat so long without oil that they now have an air bubble in them or plugged passages that don't allow in oil?

Love the look of the car, got any more pics?

I totally understand what you mean by ' Looking back now I would do several things different' on my '68 we replaced everything with stock replacement parts and now looking back for slightly more I could have had 'performance' parts, or could have installed Fox Mustang seats for about what it cost me to have new cushions and upholstry (along with frame welding) done on my 2 front seats.

-ron
 
Use SeaFoam, per the instructions and see what you get. At this point, that will be the cheapest and easiest way to either fix the problem (possible blockage/sludge) or diagnose the problem.

Off the top of my head, i say you need to drive it a lot more, 75 miles in 4 years is not good for a car, plain and simple.
 
you said you took the pan off right? just throwing this out there but maybe the oil pick up fell off the pump?
 
Thank you for the comments. I'll post some pics at the end of this statement.

Falcon Ranch: I agree with you, if the rebuilt head, which I have no idea where my dad got it from, causes more compression it could have caused those rings to fail. I found a re-ring kit for $97 so my buddy I thought about doing that over a free weekend. Thanks

Coupe Boy: Stock lifters so if I had been these forums correctly they are non-adjustable, I suppose. I will pop the valve cover off some time this week and shoot a picture to you to verify and while I am in there i can check to see if the valley's are clogged. Anyone have a picture of where they are? (Sorry, not an engine guy, more of a body guy myself)

JackFish: I try to get her out on the road at least once a month since 2006. She sat 4 years before I got her and then another 11 years until she was put back together. Yes, I caught hell from all my friends because of how long it took. I run Valvoline 10W30 in all my cars including this one. Thanks

LaGrasta: I know I should drive it more but just had it titled and registered in 06 because I didnt want to pay for registration every year on a car that didnt run. Also certain stipulations on my insurance policy do not let me drive it as much as I would like to. However I plan to do better in the future. Thanks

karfer67: That could be a possibility also. When I change the rings out I will check that too. Thanks

Ok so this is what she looking like at the moment:

DSC01567res.jpg

Have done some different things since this picture was taken.

DSC01564.jpg


DSC00942.jpg

Engine shot 2 years ago

DSC01561.jpg


Mustang6-25-06001.jpg

Redone Interior - stock color

Mustang6-25-06003.jpg


Have done a few mods since those were take and will be posting them later on.
 
Thank you for the comments. I'll post some pics at the end of this statement.

Falcon Ranch: I agree with you, if the rebuilt head, which I have no idea where my dad got it from, causes more compression it could have caused those rings to fail. I found a re-ring kit for $97 so my buddy I thought about doing that over a free weekend. Thanks

Coupe Boy: Stock lifters so if I had been these forums correctly they are non-adjustable, I suppose. I will pop the valve cover off some time this week and shoot a picture to you to verify and while I am in there i can check to see if the valley's are clogged. Anyone have a picture of where they are? (Sorry, not an engine guy, more of a body guy myself)

JackFish: I try to get her out on the road at least once a month since 2006. She sat 4 years before I got her and then another 11 years until she was put back together. Yes, I caught hell from all my friends because of how long it took. I run Valvoline 10W30 in all my cars including this one. Thanks

LaGrasta: I know I should drive it more but just had it titled and registered in 06 because I didnt want to pay for registration every year on a car that didnt run. Also certain stipulations on my insurance policy do not let me drive it as much as I would like to. However I plan to do better in the future. Thanks

karfer67: That could be a possibility also. When I change the rings out I will check that too. Thanks

Ok so this is what she looking like at the moment:

DSC01567res.jpg

Have done some different things since this picture was taken.

DSC01564.jpg


DSC00942.jpg

Engine shot 2 years ago

DSC01561.jpg


Mustang6-25-06001.jpg

Redone Interior - stock color

Mustang6-25-06003.jpg


Have done a few mods since those were take and will be posting them later on.
 
I agree with LaGrasta, I had a 1988 Jeep Cherokee that seemed to stop getting oil to the top of the engine and my boss recomened that I mix some seafoam in with my oil and take it for a REALLY long drive and get it really hot then change the oil. It will burn up a lot of the sludge in your engine and may solve your problem. It basicly solved mine, except from that point on it leaked oil out the rear main seal :roll: :lol: oops lol, of cource that wasnt related it was something else that I did. :lol:

Also I dig the way your bumpers are painted with the car, that is how Im going to do mine. Your rims are also fairly unique, I havent seen to many of them around. I also own a 1967 Mustang Coupe although mines automatic, I am planning on putting a T5 manual in it soon. 8)

Good Luck
 
Thanks, I think I might try that but I want to get oil to the valve train before I take it for any type of drive.

Yeah I like the bumbers painted also. The idea was to shave the whole car to remove all the chrome except for the mustang and coral in the grill. The only down side is their fiberglass so if I do bump anything with the bumpers, CRACK, time to get new ones.

The dirt track stainless caps came off my buddies 54 chevy when we found some bullet lugs and some chrome beauty rings. I get mixed reviews on them, You either love them or you hate on that car.
 
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