Graphite Grease For Exhaust Manifold????????

[Anonymous]

I am wondering what the grapite grease is, where to get it, is it liquid or goopy(like antiseize), and what makes it work in sealing exhaust manifolds on my 92 300 F150? I have already replaced the manifolds but used antiseize as the sealant. No one around in this area has heard of graphite grease but recommended using antiseize. All help is much appreciated. Brett

 

[addo]

Graphite grease is a medium stiff black paste that leaves "lifetime" greasy smudges showing how you picked your nose while fixing the car. :roll:

From my experiences (other than the above episode) you may have to beg a scoop of it from someone who uses the stuff; here at least it's only sold by industrial quantity.

I think the main benefit of the stuff is that it stops corrosion between the faces, eliminates any chafing due to thermal rates of movement being different, and minor (teensy) leaks may "carbon up" due to the grease components. I wonder if antiseize and paste-form copper grease (not the syrupy one) wouldn't do the job almost as well.

You'll have to let us know if the antiseize works.

Regards, Adam.

 

[StrangeRanger]

Orange RTV will stand up to exhaust temps and does an outstanding job of sealing with or without a gasket.

 

[Anonymous]

The antiseize has been working real well so far. The manifolds have been on for 2 weeks or so and not a single leak has formed. I didn't use the orange rtv because it is only rated at a few hundred degrees F. The air injection pipe into the exhaust ports is leaking so it will be replaced in 2 days. It is on order at aap. I still cant figure out why it is so slow at acceleration. The cats are not plugged and not gutted in fear of burning the engine, intake completely cleaned of all carbon, k&n air filter, new fuel pump(runs at correct pressure), sending unit, injectors, regulator, filter, pressure and return lines, air charge temp sensor, water temp sensor, map sensor, all vac lines, plug wires, rotor, cap, plugs, egr, egr sensor, etc, etc, etc. To say the least, everything that can wear out has been replaced all throughout the truck. 12 miles to the gallon town, 10 mpg with the heavy right foot, 16 highway. What are your opinions? What I can't understand is that people that have f150s carbed or efi that take them up as high as they can rev for hours on end to try to grenade it(cant do that to a 6 8) ) then race against my truck, they always beat me, then beat their truck a little more. I baby my truck. It rarely sees 2500, but when I do go against a 6, I shift at 3200 so it starts next gear at 2000. 2000 being torque peak? Am I not buzzing it high enough? These engines can rev, but 3500 is as high as I will take it. One day I found that the rev limiter is set at 4500 from a sticking cable. It sounded like the diesel semi pullers at state fairs :checks: . I will see what it does 0-60 and post it for reference tomorrow.

 

[Anonymous]

Well, my 0-60 times averaged around 12.5 seconds. When I had the oil pan off for replacement, I noticed not one scratched cylinder or cam lobe and no gunk in the pan. So the bottom end is as good as new. I guess this 6 is like all other sixes is that it can't breath. If I gut the cats, will it be likely the back pressure will be too low and throw a code? People around here don't even run cats on their efi sixes and they hold together. Any ideas or comments? I want to liven this truck up or at least bring it back to the way it was when new. Brett.

 

[StrangeRanger]

My 1/8 mile times in my 96 F150 regular cab shoty bed 300/E4OD are about 11.8 @ 59 MPH so your truck isn't all that slow.

If you breathe air, don't gut the cats. They aren't costing you more than a couple of HP at the most

 

[Anonymous]

So my engine could be putting out the power but the gearing is is too high. At 65mph in 5th gear it is cranking at 2050 rpm. Intake vacuum was a steady 22 inches for 15 minutes of idleing. So the cats are most likely ok. I can't complain about the truck, it has been in the family since 1995 with 30000 miles when bought. It now has 160000 mostly trouble free miles. What is a good chip that I can install and not throw codes? It was mentioned in another forum, something like Superchips, etc? Thank you for the help.

 

[StrangeRanger]

At 65 in 5th 2050 is perfect. You're at your torque peak. There's nothing wrong with your truck.

I don't have much regard for piggyback chips; I had a bad experience with one once. I won't make a recommendation.

 

[Anonymous]

In fifth at 65 mph it does pick up speed fairly quick when I mash the gas. A truck weighing 4200 lbs with a stock 6 is not going to accelerate too fast. I will never give up a 6 for something quicker,it is too reliable. To have a vehicle accumulate 160 some thousand miles and never miss a beat is hard to come by. Thank you for your honesty on the chip idea. I was already looking for them on ebay. I figure I better not mess with it. Computers or other pricy parts are too expensive to replace in the name of a few extra horsepower. Once again, thank you for your assistance. This site has given me a wealth of knowledge on the inline 6. Brett.

 

[83F150]

The straight 6 was never meant to be a "fast" engine, mine prolly 0-60's in 14 seconds. But I dont care cause its reliable (so far) and will pull damn near anything.

Athough haveing to run almost wide open to hold 70MPH is annoying.

 

[Anonymous]

I have to say that it hasn't leaked yet between the manifold and the head, but the O2 sensor hates antiseize, I think. The sensor has only 13,000 miles and it just happened to quit after I used the antiseize. The truck was getting 12-13 mpg on all fillups. Now I am lucky to get 9 mpg. If you are running a carbed engine I don't see a problem, efi - don't do it. Its a shame actually because it has more power with the extra fuel delivery. I will be needing every mpg I can get now. One question, how do you seal up the air injection pipe into the exhaust ports on the head? I had to drill out the old pipes and tap the ports in the head for the new pipes. 1,4,5 cylinders came out without a problem. 2,3,6 had to be drilled and tapped. 2 is the worst one on leaking. It lost its seal after 30 miles. Any suggestions?