Hard to restart hot Mustang engine

What should I do?

  • New mini starter.

    Votes: 1 12.5%
  • Starter heat shield or wrap.

    Votes: 3 37.5%
  • Ignore it, it's normal.

    Votes: 0 0.0%
  • Beat it with a hammer.

    Votes: 4 50.0%

  • Total voters
    8
Hi,
I have a '66 Mustang with the 200 inline 6 in it, and occasionally have issues restarting the car when the engine is hot. Today I drove it to the auto parts store, and when I came out 10 mins later and tried to start it up, it would try to start but wouldn't fire up. I try to start it again and I hear a loud buzzing/grinding like sound I think is coming from the starter. Is this something I should worry about? I waited a few more mins and then the car fired up fine. It will start fine when cold, but I occasionally have this problem when the engine hasn't cooled down for very long and the weather is warm. I am getting dual out headers in a few weeks, and if starter heat soaking is the problem, I'm afraid it could get worse with a header.
Any one have a recommendation to the hot starting issue?
 
I got my starter from autozoo, it comes with a lifetime warranty and I just tell them it don't work when it's hot, they don't even test it and give me a new one. Another problem might be the Battery, if it gets really hot it probably gives less amp's, try a different battery from another car first when it happens again.

that's what I think it might be...
 
When you do change the starter, before installing pull all spark plugs. Have friend turn engine over with socket and breaker bar on crank nose. You are underneath with light inspecting gear teeth on flywheel.
If there's a problem, now is the time to find it.
 
So are you thinking it is a starter problem or does it act like it is out of gas.
Mine would vapor lock on hot days. I fixed it with a wooden spacer under the carb. Old flathead trick.
 
ares66inline":20cqcu9k said:
Hi,
I have a '66 Mustang with the 200 inline 6 in it, and occasionally have issues restarting the car when the engine is hot. Today I drove it to the auto parts store, and when I came out 10 mins later and tried to start it up, it would try to start but wouldn't fire up. I try to start it again and I hear a loud buzzing/grinding like sound I think is coming from the starter.
so when it has trouble starting, your post implies that maybe the first time it cranked the engine but wouldn't fire, and then the second time it made noise?
if i'm correct on that, look into fuel concerns as dagenham mentioned
but for the grinding and all that, i used to have one that would grind when cold (below freezing), and another that would do it randomly because its mounting bolts were too loose. replaced it twice and got a good one.
 
If it's a buzzing, that's usually the starter solenoid on the firewall not working properly. It could be due to low starting voltage from the battery, or the solenoid is on the way out. Double check all your connections. A little bit of corrosion on the terminals is all it takes to mess things up. Check battery posts, battery terminals, solenoid terminals, and starter terminals.

Otherwise, I think you are experience vapor lock from the sound of it. You can always test the start next time it happens by tapping it with a hammer. Could be the brushes are worn.

I'm also a fan of Autozone lifetime warranty parts. It's worth the $10 or so. I haven't paid for an alternator in a decade on my truck (though I've replaced it 4 times).
 
Heat soak might affect the coil too if it's marginal.
But a carb spacer, as suggested, has worked for some folks.
They can be make out of that phenolic stuff used to make cutting boards.
But that buzzing is usually the solenoid isn't it? Not getting voltage or dying. Check grounds, as stated.
It's funny no one has cast a vote. :lol:
 
Voted for the mini starter for one reason only. Don't think thats your problem. You're putting headers on anyway and if I ever have to pull mine off, a mini starter is going back on as preventive maint.
 
Are you using a points distributor ?

Have you tried putting your foot on the gas peddle a little bit and holding it down like maybe 1/4 of the way and start it. as soon as it starts take your foot off the gas. If you pump the peddle a bunch before starting it you'll flood it.

My buddies 66 mustang use to do that when it was hot out. He would sit there just like you were and getting the same noises too until finally his starter went out. he replaced the starter and the problem was still going on. He would sit there forever trying to get it started. I finally convinced him to hold his foot down on the peddle a little bit and start it and take his foot off the gas right away as soon as it starts. He never had a problem starting the car after that.
It shouldn't hurt your lifters. If it was a cold start and you started to rev a whole bunch right after you started it, you'll hurt your lifters for sure.

The same thing happens to me in my falcon 170 CUI. The car starts up first try every time with barely turning the key it seems. When it's really hot out and i shut the car off and come back 10 or 20 minutes later, it will have a harder time starting(SOMETIMES). so i do the gas peddle thing and it starts up no problem.
I use the original distributor. I imagine that if i were to upgrade to a flamethrower and ignitorII set up, the car would never have a problem starting as long as my battery is in good shape. IMHO :hmmm:

Do you set the spark plug gaps ? Just wondering. I don't think spark plug gaps have much to do with your problem. I do theorize that it makes for a better start but it's just a theory.... :?
 
Kinda off subject, but when its hot, I run regular fuel, ethanol has a tendency to evaporate or boil out and make it hard to start
 
What I would check first is the positive cable that goes from the starter solenoid to the starter. Make sure the contacts on both ends are clean. Lots of times the cable where it connects to the starter gets coated with oil, and causes a poor connection, especially when its hot. Also check the cable connections at the battery. If the battery lugs are corroded inside where it connects to the battery lug, that could give a resistance problem when hot. Make sure the ground at the block is clean and that the cable is not getting frayed. In a hot engine compartment, the heat increase resistance in the cables. If the battery is more than 5 years old, replace it. Hope this helps. Doesn't cost much to do and it may fix your problem
 
Have the headers, or exhaust manifold, ceramic coated to reduce heat transfer to both the starter and carb. It also lower temps under the hood, giving you a cooler air charge.
 
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