Head swap help needed

:thumbup: Good deal! After you get the coil replaced, check wet fuel level (float setting). Because the engine didn't continue to keep running I suspect the fuel level is maybe low which could cause it not to be able to draw fuel through the carbs ventures' correctly. The Holley's have a screw in plug on the side of the fuel bowl a little above the center line near the fuel inlet fitting take it out an see if you can see where the fuel level is. If its near the bottom of the hole then it's about right, if it runs out when you pull the plug then the float setting his to high. If you cant see the fuel or it's quite a bit below the hole the float setting is too low. Later on when it's running and idling good the fuel level will need to be rechecked. Good luck :nod:
 
I replaced the coil and plug wires.

I can get the car running for maybe a minute or so. Usually with the help of starter fluid. The idle is quite rough.
I set the timing for 12 degrees during the rough idle.

If I open the throttle more than a little bit, I get a lot of back fire and the engine will generally stop. What should I focus on next?
 
Should I leave it at 12 degrees advance or try to adjust the timing to where it seems to run best before i check for leaks?

I figured I would try to spray some starter fluid around the base and see if the engine picks up. Or maybe try to cover the carb and see if it revs up . any other ideas to detect vacuum leaks?
 
The last time I had a carb back fire and produce a visible flame, I had the distributor clocked wrong in a 69 Lincoln. That isn't the case here as the distributor has not been pulled and ran fine with the log head. I checked the rotor at tdc and it pointed close to cylinder 1 on the cap (I was worried that I might have had the cap in wrong).

The carb was used and I probably should have overhauled it, but it appeared relatively clean. I get a good shot of gas from accelerator pump, but only out of one of the outlets. I know I should overhaul the carb, but was hoping I could get it to function enough to rule out other problems.

Normally, I try to change stuff out in small increments, but I had this Aussie head on my shelf for quite some time and wanted to give it a shot.
 
:hmmm: You can change the timing if you want but it should be close enough until you get the carb right then you can fine tune it.

X2 But I also think for your next step you will need to clean the carb good and kit it, especially if it's a used carb that's been sitting around a long time. More then likely all the passages are gummed up with varnish and crud from sitting.

As for testing for vacuum leaks there are many ways to test, such as hearing if they are really bad, a vacuum gage will show them, then you can also use carb cleaner, a propane torch using a rubber hose on the end (unlite of corse), smoke, water, and oil. Good luck :nod:
 
I noticed something today. I think the distributor is a loadomatic as it has two visible springs, although my identification method might be off.
I didn't think it was as the old carb, didn't have a spark control valve. i am not sure if this is part of the problem, but it probably is not helping matters.
 
Some pictures would help with ID, but if your sure it's a LOD then that's not going to work for your new combo. You would need at least a 1968 up point distributor and better still would be a DSII. :nod:
 
i would go with the duraspark distributor, and use a chrysler ignition box, the orange one is the street performance box, and an MSD blaster lll coil. i have used this combination with great success.
 
:thumbup: looking good that will be a great combo when you get everything dialed in! :bang: Your distributor though is an old LOD unit it doesn't have a mechanical advance. LOD' s are only useful on an all stock (original parts combo) and it for sure needs to be changed to unlock all your new performance. No on a Pertronix unless you are going to also get or have a newer distributor like a 1968 up point distributor to use it in. A Dura Spark I or II would be a much better choice and the best bang for the buck. X2 A DSII is also what I like to use especially when it's such an easy drop in swap. Good luck :nod:
 
Took your advice on the dura spark setup. I'm going to pick up the wiring harness. Do I need a separate ballast resister or use the resistor wire from ignition?
 
If you are going to run a stock Ford DSII control box, coil, and wire harness then you can use it with the cars original ignition wiring and Pink Resister wire. Basically DSII is the same hookups from the ignition switch as it was with a point type coil. In the link below is a wiring diagram, Info, and some testing tips though it talks about V8's the wiring and testing methods are the same for a I6. Some people bypass the resistor and run a full 12 volts, On a street car I don't! In my OPINION this is why many have trouble (frying them) with some the Ford type control boxes especially the so called bargain Auto parts boxes. Good luck :nod:

http://handymandanonline.com/ford_duraspark_2.html
 
I ordered a single vacuum distributor from a 1975 maverick and the moose orange box. The moose box has a weird pin out, so I will get a harness for that. I saw that the molar wiring kit has a ballast resister. I was reading about 6 volts of resistance at my coil, which I think is good. My hood wiring is hacked up. It is still wired the same way, but the wire coming to the cool, from the firewall, was replaced with non ballast wire
 
Ok so I think your talking about using a MOPAR orange box, as "rbohm" posted about correct? If so you can find info on how to wire the control box pins here. http://www.gofastforless.com then go to the section "electronic ignition". I have used one of the MOPAR chrome boxes on one of my old trucks with a point distributor since the late 70's (it works great) you can also use the bullet type wire connectors for the pins if you don't have harness or kit. I have not wired one with a MSII distributor before though it should be easy enough, but it will be a little different then in the diagram (see below) at the distributor connection for the ground wire would be continued to a good ground or you might be able to just abandon it. You can check out that difference on the distributor wiring in the diagram for a stock DSII that I posted (see above post). The DSII distributor has three wires and the Black wire is the ground. Since Rbohm has done this before he will need to correct me if I am steering you wrong on the distributors pickup wiring. 6 to 8 volts should work fine, is the pink resister wire still original from behind the firewall back to the ignition switch? If so then that should still work instead of needing to use the separate ballast resistor in the wiring kit, the stock Ford pink wire inline resistor is located under the dash close to the ignition switch. Good luck :nod:

Wiring diagram
http://www.gofastforless.com/ignition/magnet.gif
 
Thanks rbohm, so of the DSII distributors two remaining wires ie the Orange and Purple pickup wires which one goes on the MOPAR boxes #4 & #5 pin or dose it even matter? :nod:
 
i dont think it matters as long as the box gets the trigger signal. one suggestion though, the black wire that comes out of the distributor is a ground wire, and while it isnt necessary, i used it by grounding it to one of the screws i used to hold the box to the fender well.
 
brianproctorla":1c0rwovi said:
I'm guessing the ballast in the diagram is not necessary if I have a ballast resistor in the ignition wire itself.
Click to expand...

correct, however if the coil you buy comes with a ballast resistor, you must use it even if you have another ballast resistor in the circuit.
 
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