brianproctorla
Well-known member
Looks like the most challenging part is going to be finding a keyed 12 volt source. Should i try to tap into ignition or use a relay?
brianproctorla":3k5w1neb said:Looks like the most challenging part is going to be finding a keyed 12 volt source. Should i try to tap into ignition or use a relay?
brianproctorla":1gmoy7eu said:Update: duraspark is in and wired except for the 12v source, which has a battery jumper until my relay arrives.
Spark is much better! I gapped plugs at 0.05 and checked each plug with an inline spark tester.
Since the distributor was out, I put my finger over the number one spark plug hole until I felt compression and made sure that the rotor pointed to the number 1spark plug at tdc on the balacer (zero).
The car ran for a good thirty seconds. As good as she has since the swap. I did get one puff of gas out of the carb.
The car is starting with starter fluid and leaving choke off . Should choke be on?
I am thinking I have two options:
1: cure backfire through tuning and check for leaks. Can I time the car without a good idle?
2: recheck valve lash. I figure I would wait until one valve is open and then set the one next to it. I am wondering if my valves are not fully closing due to the valves remaining open.
brianproctorla":2msrwvya said:Thanks. The choke is manual, so the problem is my understanding of a choke.
I live in New England, which is freezing right now. Do I start with the choke on (plate closed)?
As for base timing, can this be set by cranking, at full charge, with a timing light or does in need to be under some power?
As for lash, I was re-evaluating my procedure. I figured if I waited for a valve to open, it would guarantee that the corresponding valve was closed.
Regarding compression, what is the minimum compression that would be considered acceptable?
Thanks
Brian
brianproctorla":3h9f7ao9 said:I also changed the coolant a few times. If I was smarter, I would have started off with water until I knew I had everything sealed properly. That is a lesson for next time.
brianproctorla":2qrbj8fe said:The engine idles well but will stall when i pull throttle open wide.
The revs go up when I apply the choke, but I assume that is normal?
Could this be a vacuum issue or is this a carb restriction requiring an overhaul?
Thanks
Brian
brianproctorla":18a14rq6 said:The advice on the carb rebuild was spot on. The rebuild solved the engine stall problem. Rebuilding the holley 2bbl was a dream compared to the holley 1940 1 bbl i rebuilt prior to this.
I installed a mechanical temperature and oil pressure gauge. I believe the oil pressure is a steady 50 psi and the temp is about 160-180 when the thermostat opens."
[That sounds real good on the oil pressure and engine temp!]
"My current major issue is related to my C4. It was rebuilt professionally and changed to a manual reverse pattern. It it shifting real hard at idle. I replaced the motor and transmission mounts, so that is not the issue. When I was first tinkering with the head and carbs, it puked up fluid."
[a manual valve body C4 is going to shift much harder and often when built like that they also have higher line pressure too. These are usually only used for a pure race car though. Do you have a good trans cooler installed on it yet cause it will need one?
"The fluid puking seems to have stopped and I drained the pan since then. I have a few bubbles in the fluid. I tested the fluid at idle, added more fluid and the shifting got harder. Should I raise the car and try to cycle through all gears and recheck fluid? I have always had some issues with a small amount of fluid dripping in front of the inspection plate."
[Yes raising the car cycling it through all the gears and getting the oil to normal operating temps would be very good to do. After that with the car sitting on level ground idling with the oil warmed up to normal temp then check the fluid level is correct.]
"The torque converter was a special converter that had the ring gear teeth and mated to the v8 splined C4.
The pan fluid did not seem dirty or burnt."
that's good but with that trans buildup I will say again you will need to have a trans cooler to protect it.
"Any idea what my rpm range should be with the 2bbl and aussie setup?
I am pretty sure my rpms are higher than what they should be, but I have the idle screw set to pretty much the lowest position. Might this be a factor?
What kind of RPMS should I have?