Head Swapping Newbie

[Anonymous]

Okay, Here's the deal.
I'm removing the head from a stock '66 200 and swapping it with a just rebuilt [by a local pro machine shop] '75 250 head. Completely new valve train, milled the head .060 and will be using a Felpro head gasket kit. I'm told [by my girlfriend's ex-husband] the motor was completely rebuilt 5-7 years ago. So I'm hoping the hydraulic lifters are in good shape so the stock 200 pushers should fit??. I've never done this before. OK in high school auto shop class but that was well over 20+ years ago. What should I look out for, avoid doing, stay away from, etc. I've been reading and rereading the guru's manual that I got from this website. Guess it's just nerves! I don't want to mess it up! Anything will help.

Thanks! Dave

 

[Anonymous]

I'm figuring I need to completely drain the radiator and the oil system. Also, I've been thinking of installing a temp sensor that will turn the electric fan off and on so I can get rid of the hokey switch next to the steering column inside. I figured since I'll have it all apart I'll replace all the hoses and perhaps the radiator and water pump too? This beast runs hot [as in overheats] with no thermostat.

 

[CobraSix]

1) Get a good torque wrench.

2) Don't put the gasket on backwards

3) Let the head bolts relax between torqueing. Do the first setting (I think is 55 ftlbs) and then wait 30 minutes and do the second torqueing(65 ft-lbs) and then wait until the next morning (or at least an hour) to do the final torques on the head bolts.

4) Keep the work area clean.

5) purchase new heab bolts. Since the head has been milled, consider getting grade 8 washers to put under the head bolts.

6) Made head guide bolts. Take 3 old head bolts. Cut the heads off of the bolts and cut a slot across for a flat head screw driver. Use these to guide the head back on. Cut the bolts right at the head. Also don't put them in too far on the head, a few threads should suffice. Put these in the corners head bolt holes on the block. They'll help you get the head on (especially if doing it by yourself). remove once you have a few bolts in place.

7) Have fun...take your time.

Slade

 

[Anlushac11]

8)

If you have had the head milled the hardened washers under the head bolts are just about mandatory.

Seems most everyone who has had the head milled has had problems with the head bolts bottoming out causing false torgue readings and head gaskets leaking.

 

[Anonymous]

OK, I just did this same project & had not heard the "wait several hours between torque steps" bit. Since the book & my machine shop didn't tell me that, I just did it all in an hour or less reusing my old head bolts. I checked with my machine shop before reusing them & they said to if it looks like they have not been off before. Should I retorque or just leave it? My headgasket info said it would not need to be retorqued.

Also, has anybody ever checked the depth of the head bolt hole in the block? Is there really a chance that the bolts are designed to almost hit bottom originally & by milling 1/6" or less off a head, that you could actually bottom them out? That seems a bit unlikely. I would guess that there is at least 1/4"-1/2" extra depth when the bolts are torqued down.

Anybody have a block, head & original bolts in pieces, that could do some measuring to verify how much space is left in the bottom of the hole? How about you Dave, since you are about to put it all together anyway? I'd be interested in anybody testing a 170.

Note to Dave:
If you are about to put a rebuilt head on an engine block that has not been rebuilt, you should re-ring the pistons & replace the rod bearings or you may not get far before you blow your rings out or spin a bearing.

Thanks,
David K
63 Comet Convertible

 

[66Sprinter]

I was just considering the same upper rebuild and two answers popped out ,,one that I didnt know. The wait between torque is always good. I put multispindle heads on machines at work and we always do it in three steps with an hour between ...as you torque u flex the metal some and letting it rest always relieves the tension...ditto for the real good torque wrench... and finally I had always wondered about the stress on the bottom if yo just rebuilt the top...good news comes from good folks.!!

 

[Anonymous]

Thanks for the input, let's hope I don't muck it up.
I'm assuming the photos Slade posted are of the "backwards gasket"? Seeing how nothing really is matching up on the bolt patterns......

It'll probably take me about a week to round up all the "incidentals" to this job. I'll keep taking suggestions though....

 

[CobraSix]

Is it mandotory to wait?

No.

Good idea, yeah...it can't really hurt.

Do you want to retorque yours if you didn't? I wouldn't worry about it, but you can if you really want. If you aren't having problems, don't fix it.

Dave,
yes, those gaskets are on backwards. It's amazing how easy it is to do when you aren't paying close attention. I admit, those pictures are of my engine. It was backwards and upside down (so the pushrod holes and bolt holes still lined up just not the coolant holes).

Can you reuse your old head bolts? Depends. Shop manual doesn't say to replace them. Generally a good idea to. Did I? No. Just check the bolts for necking. Also be very careful torqueing them. Go very slow. If one starts moving more then the other when torquing, keep an eye on it, it may be necking and about to break.

Hardened washers? I didn't have a problem, but my head has not been milled (nor will it be since I may at some point in the future hook up a superchargers). I still used hardened washers just to be safe as I didn't know anything about the head and engine I was putting in (other then when I CC'd it). Necessary? Probably not. Peace of mind...it's good for that.

Slade

 

[addo]

In relation to the torquing, "underhand" and towards you gives you better control on the pull from my experience. Smooth and steady or the initial coefficient of friction can give a false click.

I use moly grease on all the bolts - given up on the sealer - they never seem to leak.

Cheers, Adam.

 

[BIGREDRASA]

Torque specs are normally "lube-torque," which means bolts should not be dry. It's always a good idea to use antiseize compound on anything that will stay in a while and then may need removal. 8)
One thing you can easily do is measure the length of each bolt, and make sure none are stretched.
There are some bolts made that are actually torque to length. Of course that was on C-47 hydraulic accumulators. Lets you know how old I'm getting.

 

[MustangSix]

TTL bolts are still used on engines. You need a stretch gauge, but it's pretty common on rod bolts. Turn until they reach a specifed length or stretch.

Most newer engines use Torque to Yield (TTY) bolts. You torque them to a certain value and then turn them X-degrees more. Supposedly more precise, but you can't reuse them.

 

[Anlushac11]

8)

Call me paranoid, but I plan on using ARP head studs. I dont trust the non retorquing head bolts. I have seenseveral engines built up with them and the bolts failed.

 

[BIGREDRASA]

What's the price of studs? Looks like I need to pull my head before I finally can install an A/C.

 

[Anonymous]

Clean the threads on the bolts. Also clean the threads in the block with a bottoming tap. But be careful on the bolt hole on the front of the engine, it goes through to a water passage and if you tap too far it is possible to bend a blade on your water pump. I can now say that I can replace a water pump in less than half an hour including the trip to the store to buy it, I replaced mine three times in one day.

 

[Anonymous]

Well the swapping of the heads went amazingly well, too easily actually . No broken bolts, nothing except.....
The carb I have will not fit the head! I dropped off the carb at the local carb shop and they told me that I need a larger intake manifold to carb spacer plate [heat rise?]. Well duh! Apparently I have the smaller size one and I need the large one. Anybody out there have one laying around that they are willing to part with? Or have a suggestion or a solution?
According to this websites Performance book (I'd have been lost without it!) I have an Autolite 1 bbl carb.

 

[MustangSix]

If you can't find one, just use a hole saw and a drill to make one out of 1/2" aluminum plate. You don't need the water hose; just bypass it. The vacuum port for the PCV can just T into the other fitting on the manifold.

 

[Anonymous]

Thanks Jack. Actually I could probably drill and tap a hole for the PCV fitting as well if it came down to it. The biggest problem is the linkage connection. Is that just a threaded hole as well?

 

[MustangSix]

Is this a 66 Mustang? If so the linkage just hooks directly to the carb. Not sure about Falcons.

 

[Anonymous]

Its in a '66 Ranchero. The linkage pivots off the spacer plate.

 

[MustangSix]

I have one on the shelf that I think is from a Falcon. the stud seems to be pressed in, but if you tapped a short piece of rod and threaded it in, it would do the same thing.