Help Checking '78 200 before Instrallation

[MercuryMarc]

It's time to replace my tired 200 currently in my car. I was given another 200 from a friend who upgraded to a V8. He said the engine ran fine and did not burn oil when in his car 3 years ago. It is sitting in my garage on an engine stand - I have all the stuff except the starter. Head is EOBE, block is D8BE, and exhaust manifold is C8DE.

I figure I could take out my current engine and drop in the one in my garage. It is hard to imagine it could be any worse than my current motor (long story) and I figure it would be good practice in case I ever decide to put in a rebuilt engine since I have never installed an engine before.

If it runs terribly I will get one of my engines rebuilt and try again.

2 Questions:
1. Is there any way to test the motor for major problems on the engine stand before putting it in my car?
2. Does this sound like a reasonable idea for a novice who likes to learn and get his hands dirty?

Thanks- any and all advice is appreciated!
Marc in SF
63 Comet Convertible
http://mercurycomet.net

 

[addo]

Stuff to do: Deck height, overbore, dish and head CC measure (sorry, but head off; it will pay you back in peace of mind). Replace front oil seal. Replace rear oil seal. An afternoon's work unless the head needs a lick.

Regards, Adam.

 

[CZLN6]

Howdy Marc:

If you are certain you don't want to follow Addo's advice and remove the head to really check the condition of the inerds, you can remove and inspect the spark plugs. Black and oily is bad. They should all look about the same. Too great a difference in appearance is bad.

With the plugs out, rotate the crank and watch the rockers (valve cover off) to see how much delay there is before movement. If there's a marked delay, your looking at too much timing chain slack. Now would be the time to replace the timing chain and gears. If the top end moves with bottom end, that's good. Proceed.

The exhaust manifold may not be OEM, but is a better (less bungs and taps) flowing one then the EOxx.

Start with new oil and filter, and watch the initial start up and warm up with the valve cover off. Watch for oil to get to the front rockers. If it doesn't flow freely within 2 minutes, shut down, remove, disassemble, and thoroughly clean the shaft and rockers. After sitting this long, it's a good bet the sludge is thick!

Use high detergent oils and possibly a crankcase flush to loosen and remove crude, varnish and other contaminants. You will likely have some sitcky lifters.

The late model cam, head and electronic ignition system should give you a nice improvement. The down side is the reduction in CR.

This should be a nice adventure for "a novice who likes to learn and get his hands dirty".

Adios, David

 

[MercuryMarc]

Adam and David-
Thanks so much for your advice, as usual! I am thankful for you wise advice and that of anyone else who wants to help guide a wanna-be mechanic!

Addo-
Does "Deck Height, ovebore, and dish" mean to measure these things or actually grind/shave something? Replacing a seal or two sounds like something I can handle. And I can measure the volume of the heads to calculate the CR.

David-
Even if I pull the head it sounds like I should check the timing belt for slack and do the oil startup procedure you mention, right?
And you mentioned electronic igniton - the distributor looks just like the one on my 69 200 - how can I tell if it is electonic ignition?
(PS- I have your book and have read it several times -it's grreat!)

Thanks again-

Marc in SF
63 Comet Ragtop
69 200/C4, Dual Cupholders
http://mercurycomet.net

 

[addo]

Hey Marc, sorry for not being clear. I just meant to measure initially. Maybe you would choose a course of action if you discovered a low compression ratio or something like that. Murphy's law applies. If you try to skip this step (measuring), it will need attention once installed. If you do it now, it will all be fine and good shape.

Regards, Adam.

 

[MercuryMarc]

Thanks for the clarification.

Marc

 

[CZLN6]

Howdy back marc:

The electronic ignition distributor will have no points or condensor inside under the cap and rotor. The early EI distributors had the same cap size as the point distributors. The EI systems have a specific coil and an external module as part of the system. The Later DuraSpark II EI systems have a larger diameter cap.

From the casting #, this engine sounds like it's a composite of many years parts. If that's the case, no telling what you might find.

Removing the head for measuring and assessing will be much easier now, rather than when the engine is in the car. At the least you'll be out a head gasket- but you may save yourself alot of work later. If you find everything up to specs and tight, you may want to freshen and improve the head with a three angle valve job and mill to regain CR. Adding new valve stem seals is also cheap insurance.

Adios, David

 

[MercuryMarc]

Thanks again.
Looks like the distributor is not an electronic ignition one but rather part of the "mix-n-match" engine that I have.
Marc in SF
63 Comet
http://mercurycomet.net